Sunday, August 9, 2026

2019 - The Isle of Capri

Capri, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THE PORT of Naples is one we have become quite familiar with. Ironically, we have never really explored the city of Naples. I am confident that we will land there again one day, and maybe we will make it a point to explore Naples then. But in the meantime, Naples is downcoast from Rome/Civitavecchia about 150 miles, and is one of the ports along the Italian coast that offers the most alternative excursion and exploration opportunities. The Amalfi Coast, the ancient ruins of Pompei and Herculaneum, the Isle of Capri, are all popular points of interest that are easily reached from Naples.

Funicular Piazza - Capri, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

OUR FIRST time in Naples was in 2013. It was a planned stop on our Royal Princess Cruise that was aborted just before that stop because of serious mechanical issues. We had a private driver/tour of the Amalfi Coast scheduled. As a photographer, having done my research, I was really looking forward to that day! As things turned out we instead, limped into Naples at midnight a day late, and our tour operators could not accomodate us the next day on such short notice. However, we did get find a way to get down the coast, hiring a taxi for the day. Perhaps not as good as we had hoped, but nonetheless a memorable experience. Then, in 2017, we made it back (with our good friends, Paul and Linda on the Celebrity Reflection) and got that guided tour. So we had already seen the Amalfi Coast two times. For some (inexplicable) reason, I had never been warm to the whole Pompei thing. So, hearing that Capri was beautiful and a destination for the "rich and famous," we bought a ferry ticket and headed over there.

Capri Seaport - Capri, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

IN SOME ways, Capri reminded me a bit of Santorini, in the sense that the port was at sea level and the main part of the island was high about the port. You take a funicular up to the main "funicular piazza," which serves as the main center of Capri, housing, among other things, its municipal headquarters.

Capri, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

FROM THERE, there are many footpaths (there did not appear to be any private vehicles) to different spots. All are beautiful. All are "ritzy." There are hotels and cafes and shops and none of them were the cheap souvenir shops you often see at these kinds of places. It was also tranquil. We spent a nice day walking around, had a nice light lunch at a sidewalk cafe, took a whole bunch of photos, and eventually made our way back to the funicular plaza.

Capri, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

ONE OF the consistent facets of cruising is that when you land in a port, there is an "all aboard" time that is pretty firm. If you don't make it back to the ship (unless you are on a cruiseline sponsored excursion), they will not wait for you. We have had a couple what felt like to us at the time, "close calls." The first one was one I mentioned with our Celebrity Reflection cruise with Paul and Linda at Malta. This time it was a bit more nerve wracking. It is generally pretty easy to get ferry tickets in these Mediterranean spots. We just walked up and purchased tickets for the trip over to Capri. The tickets were timed, and knowing we had the whole day ashore, and not knowing how long we might want to stay, we did not purchase a return ticket. The boats left for the mainland (Naples) at regular intervals (every 30 minutes or so). We got off the Funicular with 20 - 25 minutes to spare before the next ferry and I got in line to get our tickets. As I reached the front of the line, they put up the sold out sign. We would have to wait 45 minutes or so for the next one. Add the approximately 1 hour ride back to the mainland and we were cutting it awfully close to the all aboard time. Like within minutes. All we could do was wait and hope the next one was on time and there were no delays. As it turned out, things ran on time and we landed and were walking toward our ship with about 10 minutes left. Fortunately, the ship was only about 5 minutes away from the ferry landing. As we walked toward our ship we could see we weren't the only ones in that predicament. Those times have taught us to be a bit more aware of the timing of things that may or may not be within our control. It simply hadn't occured to us that the later ferries would begin to sell out.

Capri, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

ALL WORKED out in the end and we were back aboard in time to join our newest friends, Rob and Carol for dinner. The next couple days would be relaxing days at sea, with the warm, Mediterranean sunshine keeping us comfortable. Next stop: Mallorca.

Sunday, July 19, 2026

2019 - "Italian Riviera"

Celebrity Edge
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

M
Y WIFE rarely makes an impulsive decision.  She is, however, always on the lookout for a good cruise and - if possible - combined with a good deal. And if there is an area where she might be impulsive from time to time, it is travel and particularly, cruising.  There have been 2 times when she has kind of "surprised" me with a major cruise. I haven't regretted either. The first time was our first Celebrity cruise, to the Caribbean, with the O'Brien Estate wine group. It was not only our first Celebrity Cruise (The Celebrity Reflection - which we have now been on 5 times - has taken its place as my personal favorite cruise ship), but our first cruise on our own. We had planned our previous two cruises with family members. We would continue to cruise with family or friends whenever we could. But we learned from that one that we were perfectly fine to venture out on our own, making a couple permanent new friends, and firming up relationship Bart and Barb O'Brien, who we would travel with again a couple more times (including two more upcoming trips in 2027 and 2028).

The Magic Carpet - Celebrity Edge Class Ships
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THE SECOND "surprise" was this cruise. We had developed a pattern at first of a cruise every other year or so. Sometimes 2 in one year (a warm-weather Caribbean and someplace in Europe). Even then it was not an every year kind of thing. We had never done two (in either venue) in the same year. This time, I came home from work one day and she put it in front of me and said "I signed us up for this one." I looked at her with some surprise. We had just finished one in June, and this would be October. Of the same year! That kind of thing no longer surprises me, but it was a first for us in 2019. It was also the third time we would head out for a cruise on our own.

Capri, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THIS WAS our first time sailing on Celebrity's "Edge" class ship, their newest class. The first in the class was The Celebrity Edge, which had been in service for just under a year, having made its first voyage in December of 2018. We have, since then, sailed on Edge Class ships many times, including the Edge, Apex, Beyond and Ascent (and will do so again for sure). We have gotten pretty familiar with this class of ships and feel very comfortable sailing on them. There were a couple major changes from the prior Solstice Class (itself considered a unique and modern class of ships - which included my favorite: The Celebrity Reflection). It was considered an innovative design. The most prominent feature is the orange "elevator" on the outside starboard side of the ship, just about amidships. Sharing duties as an outside bar and occasional tender point (when the point of exit or entry was not on the primary tender/entrance deck), it is a feature that makes any Edge Class ship immediately identifiable, even from a distance. Called "The Magic Carpet," this feature hangs around on the pool deck most of the time when not being used as a point of ingress/egress.


Manarola (Cinque Terre) - Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

ONCE AGAIN, that cruise proved to be a great friend-making opportunity, and a whole lot of fun. We met an handful of other couples, several of whom we have kept in touch with. Perhaps best of all, one of those couples was none other than Rob and Carole Cook, from Manchester England. Since then we have met up with them in Liverpool in 2023, and then again in London just this past year, when we spent several days with them, sightseeing, eating, drinking and just overall enjoying each other's company. We spent some time with them on this cruise, too, so we knew we would enjoy hanging out together in the future.

Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma - Palma de Mallorca
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WE ALSO thoroughly enjoyed the itinerary on this one. This one was dubbed: "The Italian Riviera." Once again, I had never really given those names a lot of thought. Most people know of the "French Riviera." The Italian Riviera was new to me. I learned, though, on one of our excursions the the word "riviera" means roughly: "where the land meets the sea." So it is reasonable that where the French coastline transitions into the Italian coastline along the northern coastline of the Mediterranean Sea, it should also transition from "French" to "Italian" Riviera. Starting from Civitavechhia, we stopped first in Naples, and then spent a couple "at sea" days as we sailed across the northern part of the Mediterranean (Tyrrhenian Sea), to the small, Spanish Island of Mallorca. From there, we made an overnight stop in Barcelona, and then proceeded up the "riviera" coastline to Monaco, Santa Margherita/Portofino and finally stopping in La Spezia before finishing the cruise back in Civitavecchia.

Port of Barcelona, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WE FLEW into Fiumicino, the airport for Rome/Civitavechhia. We did not plan any time on land this time, going directly to Civitavechhia and boarding our cruise ship. That is not - by the way - something I recommend, for various reasons. But it was what we did this time. Once on board, I immediately began comparing ships. I really missed my traditional "Sunset Bar" with its adjacent cigar smoking area. But the Edge ships had actually expanded the smoking area a bit with ample seating and an open deck. That has its pros and cons, but on this voyage, it was mostly pro, as the weather cooperated. And the new Sunset Bar smoking area was where we would meet most of our new friends on this cruise. And, after our first stop the next day, we had a couple "at sea" days for me to get acclimated to this new setup. As a side note for cigar smokers (readers here probably know I have a "thing" for cigars and cruises 😀), I have posited over numerous blogs that Celebrity is the most "cigar-friendly" cruise line. In addition to their great Sunset Bar areas (on the Edge and Solstice classes), I was to much later (another cruise) learn that on the Edge class ships, there is another area in the mezzanine level just above the pool on the starboard side of the ship that is covered and partly sheltered from the wind. Also on the Edge, there is a small, but cozy area outside the Eden complex on the rear of the ship, this time on the port side. But for now, I grew comfortable on the Sunset Bar Cigar/smoking deck (in fairness none of these areas are exclusively "cigar." They are smoking areas).

Smoking area adjacent to the Sunset Bar on the Celebrity Edge and Apex
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved
THIS WAS one of the most fun and memorable cruises we have taken. I hope you will travel on with us.

IN JUST 2 days, we leave for Europe once again; this time on a new cruising venue for us: a Viking River Cruise (longboat), splitting our time on the Rhone in the south of France and the Seine in the north. There are some substantial differences between river and ocean cruising, and we look forward to our new adventure - and I will most certainly report back here evenually. For now, I will be absent for the next couple weeks. See you when we return, a resume the Cruise Journey through the years.

Monday, July 13, 2026

2019 - Amsterdam

Known for their unique front gables, narrow rowhouses line the canals in Amsterdam - Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THIS WAS our first visit to Amsterdam. There would be a couple more that would be more in-depth, but in this case, it was the termination point of the cruise, and we only scheduled the day we arrived (flying out of Amsterdam's Schipol early the next morning). No tours or excursions, but we made the most of it, walking around much of the quite "walkable" city. Originally settled by various germanic tribes, the area that encompasses today's Netherlands didn't really come about until the 1800's following The Reformation. Previously part of the Roman Empire, the combined lands of what are now Netherlands, Belgium and Luxemborg, after the defeat of Napolean in about 1815, became The United Kingdom of the Netherlands. The entire area is heavily influenced by substantial coastal land along the North Sea and down the coast on the English Channel. Many of Central Europe's major rivers (and later canals and waterways) ultimately flow into the ocean there, making the entire geographic region strategically important - particularly for trade. Around 1830, Belgium, which remained primarily Catholic, split away from the region which ultimately became three different sovereign nations: The Netherlands, Belgium and Luxemborg.

Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THE NETHERLANDS remained neutral during WWI and tried valiantly to remain so during WWII, but were disingenously invaded by the Nazis, who occupied Rotterdam and Amsterdam during the war. Pre-war, however, the area, and in particular Amsterdam, became one of the world's most important and dominant trade and financial centers. Many of the later "new world" explorations originated out of (privately-owned) Dutch corporations like Dutch East Indies Company (South Africa) and the Dutch West India Company (U.S. and the Caribbean), who in the beginning, dominated these regions. There are still a number of Dutch - controlled, popular Caribbean islands, like St. Maarten, Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao. For a time, the Dutch also dominated the seas around the world.

Rijksmuseum - Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

AMSTERDAM'S ARCHITECTURE is an interesting mix. The old city center along the canals and the Amstel River are lined with 17th Century "Canal Houses;" narrow houses built in neo-Gothic or Gothic Revival buildings noted for their unique gabled roofs, separating one from another in terms of their looks. Note that most of them have a hook near the top that was used to lift cargo up into the upper stories. These homes were often a combination of residence and commerce. The world famous Rijksmuseum is a wonderful example of Rennaissance Revival/neo-Gothic architectue. As you move out from the city, you start to see more modern touches, including some Art Deco, "Amsterdam School Expressionist," and more modern archictecture. Much of the landscape is - of course - adorned by colorful flowers. Most of us know that the Netherlands (Holland) is especially noted for flowers, and in particular, tulips.

Landscaping around the Rijksmuseum - Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

DURING THE Nazi occupation more Jewish persons were sent away to concentration camps than anywhere else in the world (roughly 105,000 of the roughly 140,000 residing there). The majority of them were murdered in concentration camps. In 2022, my wife and I spent several days in Amsterdam prior to our Celebrity Apex Baltic Cruise. We spent one of our days visiting the Anne Frank house and taking a very intense, interesting and heart-rending tour and histsory of Amsterdam's Jewish Quarter.

Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

BUT ON this trip, by the time we had disembarked The Reflection and gotten our luggage squared away in hour hotel, we really only had an afternoon. So we mostly walked around. Mostly in the old city around the canals.

DeWallen - Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

SEVERAL OF the prominent cities in the Netherlands end with "dam" (e.g., Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Zaandam). I am not sure I ever put that together before our second visit there, a couple years hence, during  one of our walking tours. But there is a (perhaps obvious) reason. Each of them originated at or near the point of a damn on a significant river (in the case of Amsterdam, the Amstel River). Nearby Rotterdam is on the Rotte River. Both the Amstel and The Rotte are relatively major rivers connecting parts of Europe to the North Sea, making them logical points to set up trading centers. By the late 19th Century, a`s commerce and shipping continued to grow and at the same time agricultural growth and population growth contributed to silting up of the rivers, The North Sea Canal was dug from the freshwater sea (IJMeer) immediately east of the Amsterdam Port all the way out to the North Sea - a distance of over 20 miles. Coming in on this cruise was my first time in the Canal, and it was during the dark of night, so I didn't see it. When we sailed out of Amsterdam in 2022, I was able to do better, making a few nice photos along the shore from our high up viewpoint. A year later, we sailed out of Rotterdam where they have built a similar canal, and spent most of the sailaway up on deck with my camera.


DeWallen - Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

YOU MAY have noted my near-interchangeable use of the terms "Netherlands," "Holland," and "Dutch." I wondered about that myself. As much as I am chary of using "AI" as a research tool, this explanation from Google's AI search engine seemed pretty apt: "The Netherlands is the official name of the country, consisting of 12 provinces, while Holland refers specifically to two provinces (North and South Holland). "Dutch" refers to the people, language, and culture of the entire country."

"Head Shop" - DeWallen - Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

We did get a brief opportunity to walk the famed De Wallen, Red Light District, and the adjacent area streets where the smell of some kind of "incense" was really strong 😇. I was told I could get it at a coffee shop, but it seemed to me like it was coming out of the bars and along the streets. I found it fascinating that "weed" is legal in Amsterdam and freely available - but technically not if you are not a Netherlands resident. I say "technically," because I know of numerous instances where U.S. visitors purchased it and nobody blinked and eye. I doubt it is something that is vigorously enforced.

Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

WE ALSO stopped in for a drink in what is I believe the oldest bar in the Netherlands - and maybe in Europe. The size of the entire bar was only maybe 3 times what you see in the image above.

Bicycle parking - Downtown Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

ONE THING that really hit home with me was how much a bicycle-culture there is in Amsterdam. The number of known bikes in Amsterdam exceeds it official population. By maybe 100,000 bicycles!

Bicyles parked in a residential alley - Amsterdam, Netherlands
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

HAVING COMMENTED about the "canals" in general in my Bruges post, I should say something about them here. If there is another city in Europe that I personally would compare to Venice, it would be Amsterdam. But a little research tells me that in terms of sheer number of canals, the number of miles of canals, and the number of bridges over them, Venice is actually not at the top of that list. Hamburg, Germany (yet to visit) tops that list. But other cities, like Birmingham, UK, and Amsterdam have more canals and bridges than Venice. I still think Venice trumps them all. It is about the aesthetics, in my view. And the layout and density and variety of the canal. Venice is the only one of these cities that is completely on an isolated "island" and has only foot traffic. In each of the others, there are a few vehicular bridges, and streets and traffic often lining each side of the canal.

Amsterdam Canal - Amsterdam, Netherlands
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NONETHELESS, THE Amsterdam canals are impressive, with their "canal house" lined banks, and the beautiful landscaping that surrounds them. The other phenomena I have noted in virtually all the "other" European Canals is the presence of the private, liveaboard canal boats. I do not recall ever having seen them in Venice. Any that they do have are unusual.

Liveaboard Canal Boats - Amsterdam, Netherlands
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LIKE THEY all do, our cruise had to come to an end at some point. This short, busy day in Amsterdam was it for us for our 2019 cruise. Or so I thought. Stay tuned. It turns out that we decided to book another one just a couple months hence!