St. Thomas

Dawn as The Ruby Princess enters the tranquil harbor at Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, USVI
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

OUR NEXT port was St. Thomas,USVI. The second largest of the 4 U.S. Virgin islands (USVI) it is roughly 1/2 the size of the larger St. Croix which is about 40 miles south. The 2 primary islands of St. Thomas, and St. John's, make up part of the chain of ring islands (more or less defining the Caribbean to their south) known as the Leeward Islands of the Lesser Antilles. The British Virgin Islands of Jost Van Dyke and Tortola and several much smaller islands make up the BVI. Charlotte Amalie, the capital of St. Thomas, is approximately 90 statute miles from the San Juan, Puerto Rico's Port of Old San Juan. Just over 3 miles further east is the third largest of the USVI, St. John's. 90 percent of St. John's is a U.S. National park, essentially uninhabited. But the western coastline is well-populated with resorts and famous destinations like Trunk Bay, Cruz Bay, Caneel Bay, Maho Bay, and Hawksnest and Honeymoon Beaches. Tortolla, BVI, just under 2 miles across the water to the east, is easily visible on a clear day and appears much closer. In 2024, we visited Tortolla and our guide took us to viewpoint where we could clearly see St. John's to the west. We would not see St. John's this trip but on our very next visit to St. Thomas we did.

A not so "tranquil" main drag in downtown Charlotte Amalie; St. Thomas, USVI
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

MUCH LIKE St. Maarten, we didn't really have a big plan for St. Thomas. My wife was on a mission to find a ring with a particular stone that was very popular back then: Blue Tanzanite. She did find one in St. Martin, but we still wanted to "window" shop and do comparisons. I am kind of a watch guy and found myself admiring a couple watches. I managed to escape temptation, but the main street of downtown Charlotte Amalie is packed with tourist attracting stores - the great majority of it being watches and jewelry. We learned much later, when re-entering the U.S. that it makes a lot of sense to purchase your "Caribbean trinkets" in St. Thomas, as they are then free from U.S. Customs duties. There was one other "mission" I was on. My wife had a co-worker and we had become friends with her and her husband, often getting together when we could. He was a cigar smoker and every time I saw him - no matter the circumstances - he always had a baggie with a few cigars in it for me. I wanted to get him some cigars while we were on the cruise. So we sought out a cigar shop. We did find one and I did get him a box of Monte Cristos. Because it is U.S. territory, however, St. Thomas is not allowed to sell Cuban cigars. Oh. Well. I have long since learned a couple lessons (though it has taken me a while) about buying cigars and the Caribbean. Short story: just don't do it. I have yet to find a good deal, or a decently made and/or conditioned cigar. Just saying.

A much quieter back street in Charlotte Amalie (where we found our restaurant
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

. . . about buying cigars and the Caribbean. Short story: just don't do it.

WE BASICALLY shopped, walked around a bit, and then decide to have lunch. I asked one of the people in one of the jewelry stores we spent some time in if there was a "local" restaurant that the locals would frequent. She was hesitant to send us much off the beaten path, but ultimately identified on that was just a block off the main drag. We went there and had some very good food. I am pretty sure we were the only tourists in the restaurant. We never felt unsafe or uncomfortable, and the staff could not have been more polite and helpful. Once again, we didn't know it at the time, but we would be back in St. Thomas in the near future. And we would see a lot more of what St. Thomas is known for around the world.

We Did it Again!

Ruby Princess - Princess Cay - Eleuthera, Bahamas
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

I HAVE recently begun a series of posts going back to the beginning of cruising for us. It all started in Alaska in 2010. It has been quite a ride (er . . . cruise). We didn't know if we would like it (or maybe the proverbial "we" should be just me - pretty sure my wife not only loved it from the get-go but already knew she was going to). I covered all that in the first post if you didn't see that. For me, it was just a matter of time. A pretty short time, actually.

The Ruby Princess - Caribbean 2012
A very different "vibe" than Alaska - complete with "Bob Marley/Jimmy Buffet style music around the pool
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

AS IN the Alaska trip, my brother-in-law was also involved with our second cruise and its planning. He had been on a couple prior cruises over the years. They had all been in the Caribbean. He was definitely in for the Caribbean. On the first go-round, I had insisted that I would go, but only if I could choose the cruise. They were good with that and I chose Alaska. We all had a great time. But this time? Well they say "what goes around comes around." This time: his turn to choose. He made a short exercise of it. We were going to the Caribbean.

Ruby Princess - Caribbean 2012
There was no sunbathing or pool parties in Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

WE HAD thoroughly enjoyed our experience with Princess, and we were both already accumulating "status." So it was an easy choice to go on Princess again. The itinerary and timing that fit best for us meant our cruise would be on The Ruby Princess. Two years newer (2008) than our Alaska ship, The Diamond Princess (2006). Both are in Princess' Grand Class and thus essentially similar. The Ruby Princess does have one additional deck, however.

A CARIBBEAN cruise is almost everything opposite of an Alaska cruise. Instead of cool, overcast conditions, it is warm and sunny. Instead of a more "cultural" approach, it is beach party time (that is not to say that there are no cultural opportunities in the Caribbean - as we would later learn). For northerners (we lived in Michigan at the time and my brother-in-law lived in Virginia - still a cold weather climate during the winter months), the Caribbean in winter time is a little slice of heaven. Albeit short-lived, we began to look forward to our southern trips as a time to thaw out, get some color from the sun, drink the "boat drinks" Jimmy Buffet sang about, and just recharge the batteries. As you can see from the photo above, there is one huge difference between our first and second cruises. The Caribbean means sun and warm temperatures. I can assure you there were no sun-worshippers in bathing suits lounging around the pool aboard the Diamond Princess in Alaska. 😆

Princess Cay; Eleuthera, Bahamas
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

PRINCESS PIONEERED the idea of owning its own slice of paradise in the form of a day-visit tropical beach owned by the cruise line. In 1981 the cruise line acquired a beach property on Palm Island in the Grenadines and began calling there for day stops on its Caribbean itineraries. In 1986, Palm Island was replaced by "Princess Bay," at Saline Bay on the Caribbean island of Mayreau (part of St. Vincent and the Grenadines). Then, in 1991, the company acquired a large part of the northern tip of the island of Eleuthera, Bahamas., and opened its current (and only) exclusive beach destination: Princess Cay. Owned by Carnival Holding, Inc., it is shared by sister lines: Holland America and Carnival. I think that the location (technically The Bahamas are not part of "the Caribbean") was a major consideration, being much closer to all three cruise lines' U.S. ports. We stopped there on our second day (first was "at sea") out of Ft. Lauderdale and enjoyed a beautiful day on the white sandy beach. The opening image showing our Ruby Princess anchored out (the Cay is a "tendered" stop) in crystal blue waters. The cruise ship puts on a major "barbeque" style food setup. We rented one of the colorful little "cabana cabins" (ours is pictured) for the day, giving us a place to change and to get out of the sun (or rain, if necessary). Pretty nice beach day.

St. Maarten - On our first visit I counted 7 cruise ships in the port
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

THEN THE cruise began "in earnest." Our next stop was the island nation of Sint Maarten / St. Martin. The island is basically bisected north and south, with the southern part being Dutch territory and the northern part, French. The cruise ships all dock in Phillipsburg on the Dutch side because there is a deepwater port there which can accomodate multiple ships. For a number of reasons, we did not do a very good job of planning this cruise. We are not generally beach-goers, or water-adventure (like snorkeling) seekers. 2012 had also been a turbulent year for us (more for my wife and her brother than me). My mother-in-law, a formerly independent and self-sufficient single woman, had taken a turn in her health. No longer able to live independently, they shared the responsibility of caring for her. That year, they decided that it would be best for all to move her from her familiar Virginia, to Michigan, where my wife and I lived. Her brother was in the process of changing jobs and would eventually move to Florida. Only a day or two before we were scheduled to fly to Ft. Lauderdale and board our ship, she took a turn for the worse, and was hospitalized. Then on the day of our sceduled flight, she passed. Tumultous. My brother-in-law and his girlfriend were already at the hotel we were going to meet at in Ft. Lauderdale. I remember speaking to him that night by phone as he was walking on the beach, reflecting on things. The first thought every one of us had was that we would abandon the cruise. But we quickly realized there was no jonger any urgency. They were her only children. She wasn't at "home," so a service wasn't imminently necessary. There was time to plan. We had both paid for the cruise and were beyond any normal cancellation deadline. And we knew in our hearts that she would have wanted us to go. We did and I think all were glad we did. Packing was a blur, as was getting to the port on time for the sail-away. But we made it.

The center of Phillipsburg, Sint Maarten - Courthouse in the background
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

WE GOT off the ship in St. Maarten, bought some jewelry, and then rode the water taxi across the bay to the middle of Phillipsburg. My brother in law had booked some kind of excursion for them, so my wife and I walked around the "downtown" area of Phillipsburg and did some "window shopping." The first thing we learned about the Caribbean is that it mostly has a very laid back vibe contrasted with the "hard sell" approach the tourist vendors take in most cases). Just off the ship the water taxi that took you across the bay to the main dock in the downtown section of Philipsburg. It was maybe a 5 minute ride. But in that time, We were warmly greeted, offered a (very reasonably priced) beer, and whisked across the gorgeous bay to the dock.

St. Maarten Water Taxi
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

I LEARNED that in Phillipsburg you may walk around the town (and the beaches) with an open alcoholic container. "No worries, mon." 😁 So, once in town, I did just that. We window shopped and successfuly avoided buying the proverbial T-shirt. Evenually, we found our way to a shady little spot on a very small beach adjacent to a small marina where it looks like some local fishermen beached their boats, found a sandwich and a beer, and just relaxed. It was a fun and memorable day. Aside from Canada, this was my first time in a foreign country and my first time south of Orlando. It was a memorable day.

A quiet corner of the beach - St. Maarten, Dutch West Indies
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

SOON ENOUGH it was time to head back for the ship. It was nice to head back, get cleaned up, and have a cocktail before dinner at our assigned table for 4. I didn't know it at the time, but we would be back to St. Maarten several times over the next few years. I always enjoy it and have often though it would be my first choice of a place to stay for an extended period in the Caribbean.

These colorful "welcome" signs are seen today at most Caribbean Cruise Ports. This one was serendipitous, but in later years I have begun to make it a point to photograph them when the opportunity presents
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

OUR SHIP had a later departure that day and we were able to observe a gorgeous sunset as we watched a "ghost of our future," the brand new Celebrity Reflection leave port and sail off into the sunset. Stay tuned, as it is coming up soon.

The Celebrity Reflection - St. Maarten, Dutch West Indies
Copyright Andy Richards 2012 - All Rights Reserved

Glacier Bay: (a spot that wasn't really a "stop" and a National Park that didn't really feel like a "park")

National Park Service - Glacier Bay National Park - Icy Straits, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

THE LAST "stop" on our itinerary before reaching our final port and debarkation, was Glacier Bay National Park. The park is actually over 3 million acres of rugged and essentially uninhabited mountains, glaciers, shorelines, and even rainforest. We didn't see any of that except on huge glacier making its way inexorably into the bay. Instead, we cruised into Glacer Bay, itself 65 miles long, primarily to observe The Margerie Glacier and maybe get lucky enough to see it "calving."

The Margerie Glacier - Glacier Bay National Park - Icy Straits, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

THE BAY is open to only 2 cruise ships a day, and limited private boating (by permit only), in addition to the excursion boats operated by, or in contract with, the Park Service. As the ship enters the bay, it is boarded by Park Service Naturalists who accompany the boat during the time in the bay, as well as presenting to the passengers. We saw, in addition to the spectacular scenery, a fair amount of wildlife, including a couple black bears that were too far off to photography.

Floating Ice - Glacier Bay National Park - Icy Straits, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010

THE MARGERIE Glacier was the main event. Our ship cruised pretty close to the base of the glacier and then sat for a long time, turning once to allow all passengers a view. As we watched, we hoped for a significant calving event. Unfortunately we did not see a major "calving" event.

Floating Ice - Glacier Bay Natioal Park - Icy Straits, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

AS I watched over the side, I was impressed by the huge chunks of ice floating in the clearly freezing-cold water, many of them displaying interesting and sometimes vivid colors.

Margerie Glacier - Glacier Bay National Park - Icy Straits, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010

THE BLUE color you see predominantly in the glaciers is caused by the dense icepack absorbing the colors of the "warm" spectrum (reds, oranges, yellows) and reflecting the cooler (blue) color spectrum.

The Margerie Glacier - Glacier Bay National Park - Icy Straits, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

THE BLACK, mostly horizontal lines through the glaciers are made by deposits on top of the ice of minerals, smoke, dust and rock particles, recovered by snow and reformed ice. It all makes for a pretty photogenic, if pastel, palette.

Pilot Boat - Icy Straits, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010

SAILING OUT of Glacier Bay and on toward our final port of call, Whittier, we had calm seas, but very cold conditions. I couldn't help but think how brutal this environment can be and how incredibly cold it would be out there on a smaller craft. I thought the black and white rendering of this image got my primary thought - cold - across well.

Icy Straits Passage from Glacier Bay to Wittier, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

WHITTIER IS a tiny Alaska town whose demographic is fascinating. Serving mainly the purpose of a small, sheltered seaport, the majority of Whittier's inhabitants work in the marine industry, mostly for the cruise port there which is operated by Princess (and is the point of beginning and end for the one-way inside passage cruises by Princess and Holland America cruise ships). Historically a portage point for the Chugach native people, it later was used by Russian and U.S. explorers, as well as serving as a launch point during the Klondike Gold Rush. During World War II, the United States built a military base (Camp Sullivan) nearby. Improvements, including a spur of the Alaska Railroad to Camp Sullivan, an oil terminal and a pipeline from Whitter to Anchorage. The army maintained its presence until 1960. In 1941, a tunnel was excavated through the mountain separating Whittier from other parts of Alaska, train travel (mostly industrial) was able to move between Whittier and Anchorage and other points. There were no roads in and out of Whittier. Previously mainly a military-industrial outpost and a port on the Alaska Marine Highway, Whittier was incorporated in 1968. It was not until 2000, however that the tunnel was converted into a "bi-modal" transportation route, for both passenger vehicles and train travel.

Begich Towers . . . continues today to be the primary housing in Whittier

IT WAS a very interesting trip from Whittier to Anchorage from where we would fly home the following day. The tunnel is regulated and is a basically one lane highway with train tracks in the middle of it. Obviously, only one mode of transport at a time can traverse the 2.5 mile stretch. And somebody has to be coordinating that! We took one of Princess' coaches, and fortunately met neither a vehicle nor a train coming into Whittier.

Sunrise from the aft deck of Diamond Princess in Whittier, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010

THE OTHER fascinating tidbit about Whittier is its population and housing situation. The population is less than 300. Almost all of them live in a single, high-rised condominium. As you can see from my photo of Whittier below, there is virtually no separate single family housing. In fact, aside from the two multi-occupancy buildings to the left and right of the image, there is essentially no other housing. Unique. Only two residential building were built in Whittier, the Buckner Building in 1953, and later, the Hodge Building in 1957. Both were multi-occupancy buildings. For reasons unknown to me, the Buckner Building was eventually abandoned. The Hodge Building was renamed to Begich Towers and continues today to be the primary housing in Whittier. On its ground floor, it houses the 3-person Whittier Police force, and a drugstore and grocery/convenience store. There is a tunnel from the building to the Whittier School, allowing students to go to and from school in any weather. It has become known as "the city under one roof." Sounds kind of like one of those "utopian" domes. As I said: Fascinating.

The city and port of Whittier, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

ALTHOUGH WE took the Princess coach that morning back to our hotel in Anchorage, and we made a couple stops along the way, they were mostly anti-climactic and my lasting memory of the final day of that cruise will be that Whittier sunrise. It was a brand new adventure for us. Our first cruise. As I said at the beginning of this series of posts, I didn't know whether I would like it or not. It turns out we did. A lot. And even though it would be 2 more years before we cruised again, we began to look forward to the next one, and that has been the pattern ever since. Next up: The Caribbean.