Sunday, April 30, 2023

Back to the Mediterranean Again - 2019 - Capri


Sunset Bar; Celebrity Edge - Mediterranean 2019

OCTOBER 2019 had us cruising again, in the Mediterranean, for the 4th time in 8 years. It was getting to be a habit (once which we would not be breaking anytime soon, but would instead, accelerate, as we cruised again in the Mediterranean in 2020, 2021, and 2022).

If you are one of those "gluttons for punishment" who happen to read both of my blogs: "Lightcentric Photography Blog" (a more photography-oriented blog) and "I am a Celebrity" (more "cruise" oriented) [THANK YOU!] - recently you might feel like you are bouncing in and out of a time warp. Yesterdays Lightcentric post covered our 2022 trip (on the Celebrity Edge) back to the Mediterranean. I am a couple years behind that here. But I will get us there 😅

Martini Bar - Central Atrium - Celebrity Edge 2019

THIS TIME, the "new" experience for us was cruising on Celebrity's relatively new class, The Celebrity Edge. While a few of our cruises have been shared with friends, this one was solo. But as always, we met some great people and eventually departed with friends from around the world. One of the fun things about cruises in Europe is that the ship is usually well-populated with Europeans, so we get to make friends from other countries, and get some "culture," too. This cruise was no exception, and we count among our permanent friends two couples from England, as well as other acquaintances from "Down Under" (not exactly Europe, I know) and other parts of The U.K. and Ireland.

Smoking Section - Sunset Bar - Looking foward - Celebrity Edge 2019

ONCE AGAIN, we cruised in and out of "Rome." Those who have done so (or paid attention here 😮), know that no ships come into or out of Rome. Rather, the port city is Civitavecchia. Although Google Maps identifies it as "Metropolitan Rome," it is a good 40 miles northwest of Rome, on limited access highways. For anyone who is wondering, it is also just about 40 miles from Fiumicino Airport (the main airport serving Rome). It is an oft-mentioned pet peeve of mine that all the cruise lines call this port of call: "Rome," when it is really Civitavecchia. In years past, when we have spent time in Rome, we have gone to Rome and stayed there. But depending on how early our boarding time is, we have also traveled to Civitavecchia, and stayed in a hotel there the night before. Generally, I would recommend allowing at least an hour (and probably more) travel time from either of those places to the Cruise Port.

Port at Capri, Italy

AS I have mentioned in prior posts, it is not uncommon for us to arrive in Europe someplace a few days before the cruise begins. One of the reasons for this is that having spent the big dollars on the flight across "the pond," we think it is relatively inexpensive to stay a few days and take advantage of a new location for more than just an onshore excursion day. But another, perhaps compelling, reason has become evident in recent years, particularly as the world comes out of the 2019-2021 pandemic and businesses (including airlines and airports) struggle to get back to pre-pandemic standards. While we have been fortunate, we have read and heard horror stories about luggage not making it to the destination, and flights being cancelled and rescheduled, sometimes resulting in missed cruises. So a few days - especially on the way in - seems prudent to us these days.

Isle of Capri, Italy

BUT PRE-PANDEMIC, in October of 2019, for whatever reason (I honestly don't remember), we planned to arrive directly at the Cruise Port and leave for home directly after the cruise. We didn't spend any time in Rome (that would come later, in 2022, when we spent several days there - something I would highly recommend and will cover in a coming post). In 2017, we opted to spend our several days in Venice with our friends, Paul and Linda. Rome is amazing, but if I had to choose, I will take Venice every time! But for this trip we flew in, and with pre-arranged transportation to Civitavecchia, we pretty much directly boarded our ship.

Capri, Italy

OUR FIRST port - the next day - would be Naples. We have been to Naples numerous times, including the (infamous?) aborted cruise on Princess on our very first Mediterranean Cruise, where we actually spent a couple days at the port. Naples is a really good springboard for many attractions. I am told the city itself has some interesting things (and supposedly Italy's - maybe the world's - best pizza). But for some reason, we have never been compelled to explore the city.

Main Square - Isle of Capri, Italy

BUT BEFORE we arrived in Naples, we had an opportunity to explore and compare our newest ship - The Celebrity Edge. The first of the newest, most modern, and (only slightly) largest class of Celebrity's three main classes (Millenium, Solstice, and Edge), the Edge was decidedly more modern feeling (though the Solstice ships feel pretty modern already). The design also "feels" more spacious. I am not certain there is that much more space, as the ships are only marginally larger than the Solstice ships. But Celebrity has achieved a more open plan. Like any new ship, there are some "wins" and some "losses." I cover the differences between the Solstice and Edge class ships in some detail in "A Celebratory History," published in October 2022. For me, the biggest "win" was the smoking area. I know. OMG, how can I be so politically incorrect! 😧But as I have previously said, I don't think this subject is near as emotionally burdened a "hot button" in the world outside of the U.S. While I truly appreciated the smoking area on the back deck of the Solstice ships (I was just on one this past February), the Edge smoking area is - for the most part - well thought out. It is very much more spacious and is well separated from the rest of the seating for the Sunset Bar on the back of the ship. Its design lends itself to groups, and we found ourselves joining others often, and learning that this was the place where we made our friends the easiest. I look forward to my "cigar time" back there as much as anything else on the cruise.

Isle of Capri, Italy

RATHER THAN rehash the other differences and my take on them, if you are interested, I recommend the "Celebratory History" link above. In the end, let's just say we have become fans of the Edge and its siblings, but have equally good feelings about the Solstice ships (Especially our personal favorite: The Celebrity Reflection). Now, on to Naples.

Amalfi, Italy - 2017

THERE ARE three principal excursions that people take out of Naples. The first is the gorgeous Amalfi Coast. We have been there twice. If we could somehow reserve our day without the 1000's of other tourists, I would do it again and again. But having braved the traffic and humanity, I would only go back if it were for someone else to see it.

Capri, Italy

PERHAPS MORE (certainly equally) attractive for excursions are the nearby ancient ruins of Pompei and Herculaneum. We had not been there and wouldn't make it until our 1922 post-pandemic cruise. It was worth the wait (more on that in an upcoming post).

Capri, Italy
THE THIRD destination - arguably as compelling as the first two - and certain a must-see destination, is The Isle of Capri. Known as a playground for "the rich and famous," for the most part, it met up to its billing. We found it a rather quiet and tranquil place. I know there are a couple of outdoor bars up on the top of the caldera (where most of the inhabitants are) where we were said to have certainly spotted celebrities. I am afraid I didn't do my homework very well on this one. If we go back, I'll do some research so we can at least sit and "rub elbows" with some of them. 😀

Capri, Italy

MANY OF these Mediterranean paradises are built into the hillsides created by volcanic uprising in the middle of the ocean. Santorini, Greece is one that comes to mind. That means hills. Steep Hills. And, like Santorini, to get up to the main part of the island requires either dedicated transportation (there are no vehicles and no roads up there - other than the roads to get up), walking (not for the faint of heart - or old folks like us), or a funicular. We chose the last option and bought tickets and waited in line for our ride up. The funicular terminates just of what appears to be the main commercial square up at the top (see earlier photo). That was the busiest place we found on the island. As soon as you walk out of that area in almost any directions, things become quiet. The square was mostly shops and restaurants, and at the top of the funicular there is a pretty amazing view below. The only other area we found that seemed as busy and crowded as the square, with the seaport at the bottom. Everywhere else, things seemed to move at a slower pace, and while there were restaurants and hotels, they were more spread out and more intimate.

Capri, Italy

THE NAPLES Port is one of the busiest ports we have visited over the years. Along with the Cruise Terminal, there is substantial cargo and container shipping, and ferries to other points along the coast, including to Capri. We didn't have any trouble getting tickets to the island. And the ferry terminal was just steps away from the cruise terminal (something that would be a good thing for us later).

Port; Capri, Italy

WE HAD the entire day ashore, and since we had no specific plan once we reached Capri, we bought one-way tickets. A word to the wise, here: think about your plan of return to the mainland. We didn't. We almost regretted it. There have been a couple times when we have mused that we might learn how to travel from one cruise port to another via a method other than the ship. 😧 While certainly not the most nerve-wracking time (that was to come a few years later, in South Africa), it is - nonetheless - one of those anecdotes I like to tell. The terminal where you purchase tickets both to the funicular (that is a round-trip) and the ferries to the mainland were right in the same small building. We should probably have made a decision on what time we wanted to go back and purchased our tickets ahead of time. I strongly recommend that to anyone in this situation going forward. After a nice day up on the top, we took the funicular back down and walked over to the ticket station. I stood in line and as we reached the ticket counter, the couple ahead of us were turned away. The ferry we planned to take was full. The next one didn't leave for another 1 1/2 hours. We had (thought we had) given ourselves plenty of time to return to the port and reboard our ship. But with the 1 1/2 - hour delay, we would be cutting it very close, as long as everything went as scheduled.

Shops; Capri, Italy

WITH NOTHING else we could do, we bought our tickets, did some trinket shopping, and sat at one of the outdoor cafes and had a drink. We were actually reasonably certain that we would be fine. But we did think about it. Our next port of call was Palma, Majorca; 2 days away (a day at sea) and all the way across the Tyrrhenian Sea (north part of the Mediterranean). The following stop would be Barcelona, a city we love and were reasonably familiar with. The most sensible "plan B" would probably have been to fly from Naples to Barcelona, and catch the ship there, staying in Barcelona for a couple nights. The biggest inconvenience would have been that everything we had other than cards, cash and I.D., were back on the ship. And adventure. 😅 Fortunately, things worked out as we hoped, and we landed at the port just 10 minutes before the last time to reboard the cruise ship. That is where having the cruise terminal just steps away worked to our advantage. So, we got to enjoy a relaxing day at sea, and spend some time in a place we had never been to: Palma de Majorca, our next stop.

Port of Naples, Italy




Sunday, April 23, 2023

The History of Cruising (My Short Version)

CRUISE SHIPS have been around for more than 100 years (the first one reputedly built in 1900). But cruising then was nothing like it is today, and for the most part, cruise ships were nothing like the mega ships we cruise on these days (though I was pretty surprised to learn that the Titanic was capable of carrying 2500 passengers - approximately the same capacity as our ships of choice today).

THE FIRST "cruise ships" were mail delivery ships owned by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company (P&O). They began selling "leisure" cruises on the delivery ships in 1844, with a trip from Southhampton, England, around the Mediterranean Sea (with stops presumably where the mail stops were). Over time, P&O expanded the leisure cruises, while a few other lines joined in the offering of leisure cruises.

IN THOSE days, there were also ocean liners, but most of them were primarily a means of trans-ocean travel. Before the advent of organized air travel in the 1960's, ocean liners were the primary means of such travel. These ocean liners (with only a very few exceptions) were not really much different in their setup than the famed Titanic. There were "classes" of passengers, from steerage to "first class." The primary purpose of these liners was transportation, and perhaps the most popular trip was between London and New York.

Prinzessin Victoria Luise

Cruising back then was nothing like it is today

THE FIRST "purpose-built" cruise ship (according to Encyclopedia Britannica), was Prinzessin Victoria Luise, launched in 1900. The Luise had 120 cabins (all "first class"). Prior to that time, the SS Ceylon, formerly an auxiliary steamer (meaning it had both sails and a steam engine), was repurposed by its London ship brokerage - owner, as a cruise ship, by replacing some of the cabins with public areas for dining and entertainment. The ship had a 2,000 passenger capacity. The target market for these early cruise ships was: "people who were rich but not rich enough to own their own leisure yachts" (Encyclopedia Britannica). I can identify with half of that market - I am certainly not "rich enough" to own my own luxury yacht! 😃


FOR A time, cruising was kind of up and down; largely affected by world events. The first, and perhaps most infamous such event occurred during WWI when the Cuinard-owned ocean liner, Lusitania, was sunk by a German U-boat near Liverpool, England, killing 1,200 passengers. Cruising declined during the war, but regained popularity following it. Another, rather interesting, development has been given credence for the rise of popularity of cruising during this period: Prohibition While the U.S. remained "dry" for a period of 13 (long 😓) years, the cruise industry apparently added new meaning to the naval term (feet) "wet." Prohibition's . . . well . . . prohibition against alcohol consumption apparently only applied to the land and 3 nautical miles from shore. It is said that cruise lines began offering the earliest form of the "Booze Cruise," during this time, offering alcohol once outside the 3-mile limit.

PROHIBITION WAS also at least in part responsible for another phenomenon that developed in the cruise industry in the 1920s: "Flags of Convenience." Another way cruise ships got around the limitations of Prohibition was by registering their vessels in a country other than the U.S. While today, there are numerous other reasons to register in other countries, at the time, Prohibition may have been a primary reason. A very few nations have what is known as "Open Registry," meaning that a ship may be registered in that country even if not built there or owned by citizens of the country. This widely used practice today is known as "Flags of Convenience." 

In the 1960s the airline industry changed everything

ANOTHER INTERESTING, and sadly despicable item of cruise history: The largest cruise ship operation in existence during the 1930's was owned and operated by the Nazi Party in the early 1930's. These "indoctrination cruises" were thinly disguised as a symbol of the Party's support for the German "everyman."

IN THE 1960s the airline industry changed everything. Ocean voyages, once a utility, now became more of an entertainment venue, though perhaps reserved for those who had means to afford them and the leisure of time (the fastest London-New York voyage was 4 days). Ocean liners, for the most part, were either being retired, or repurposed into cruise ships. Many new companies exclusively focused on cruises were founded in the 1960s and ’70s. These included Princess Cruises in 1965, Norwegian Cruise Line in 1966, Royal Caribbean Cruises in 1968, MSC in 1970, and Carnival Cruise Lines in 1972. The largest cruise ships now can hold up to 7,000 passengers and showcase entertainment venues like rock climbing walls, putt-putt golf, go-kart tracks, planetariums, surf simulators, and water parks, to name just a few.


Queen Elizabeth II

THE MODERN cruise ship industry probably started with the Cuinard Lines, owners of the famed "Queen Elizabeth," and later, The QE2 (still in service today), when they added entertainment aboard the ship, and did away with passenger classes, offering all the ships' amenities to all passengers aboard. It was only a short leap from there to passengers beginning to treat these trips like a short vacation.

HAVE YOU noticed that nearly every cruise ship is flagged in countries other than the U.S.? We saw above that Prohibition was a significant reason for this in the 1920s. But those days are long since bygone. So why would the practice of "flags of convenience" continue to be the de facto standard of the cruise industry today, even though several of the most popular and largest cruise lines are U.S. - based? The primary reason is that the small number of nations who allow "open-registry" of ships (meaning that ship can be built and owned outside the country of registry) also happen to be the countries with the most "liberal" laws pertaining to the cruise industry. Wage and Hour laws are much less stringent, to even non-existent. This means the company can pay lower wages and require more hours, with less leave time. It also happens that several of these countries have much more favorable tax climates, enabling the companies to pay lower taxes. And of course, since the ships are not U.S. based, U.S. contract and injury laws do not apply, often requiring an aggrieved passenger to conduct any legal action in the country of registry - or in the place contracted for in your passenger ticket contract.


Celebrity Reflection in its "Home-Flagged" port: Valletta, Malta

THERE ARE some impediments. The Passenger Vessel Services Act of 1886 (PVSA) often incorrectly referred to as "The Jones Act" (while similar in many respects, the Jones Act was enacted many years later - in 1920 - and addressed cargo, not passengers). The PVSA, requires 75% U.S. based ownership, and a majority of crew be U.S. citizens in order to be registered in the U.S. Non-U.S. flagged ships may not carry passengers from one U.S. port to another, subject to some narrow exceptions. One such exception is that it appears that going ashore to explore for the day or on excursions are an exception. The PVSA only considers passengers who board with the intent of staying aboard, and who disembark with the intent not to return to the ship. Fines for violation of these rules approach $1,000 per passenger. Another exception applies if the ship visits at least one "distant" port before returning to the U.S. "Distant" is defined by the U.S. government as not being in "North America." And most ports (with the exception of Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao) even though well south into the Caribbean are considered under the act to be part of "North America."

PROBABLY NO "social media" event was more helpful to the cruise line industry than the 1970's television show, The Love Boat, selling the notion that a cruise was a romantic getaway for couples and/or singles looking for love. Though I was too young at the time to be seriously "looking for love," I confess that I was a regular viewer. 😍 And this was long before my first cruise (which I have noted here, I was "lukewarm" about). Ships built in the late 1980s focused on passenger comforts, entertainment, and larger and larger size/capacity. Design had moved away from the "luxury liner" approach to a "hotel lobby-like" design around a multi-story atrium with glass elevators. Today's even more modern design have small "city-block" type design with shops, bars, and "fast-food" themed restaurants. Named the Pacific Princess, after Princess Cruise Lines' ship of the same name, The "Love Boat," while featuring the atrium-like design, is now 40 years behind us, and design features continue to evolve.


The Love Boat

OTHER THINGS have also evolved. Cabins on ocean liners were traditionally designed to maximize passenger capacity and were often different between classes. Today, cabins (more properly, "staterooms") often feature private balconies instead of ocean view. Some newer designs (notably Celebrity's Edge Series), feature an "infinity veranda" design in lieu of an outdoor balcony. These somewhat controversial (I think any change at least starts out "controversial") designs feature a large window, but the "veranda" is actually a bump-out in the room. There are those who think it makes the room feel better, and just as many who lament the loss of their private outdoor space. I think they may well be a design wave of the future, as they are more aerodynamic and easier to control from central parts of the ship. Time will tell.


Infinity Balcony on Celebrity Edge Series

DINING HAS always been a primary focus of both luxury liners and cruise ships. It still is, of course. Indeed, food quality and dining experience is often the largest separator of different cruise experiences. Originally, it was traditional that the ships would offer two dining services each day: for breakfast and for evening dinner. Over time, that evolved into breakfast being offered in limited dining rooms and in a full-on buffet, and dinner being served in dining rooms (and of course, for those who wished, in the buffet - more on that in a minute). When we started in the early 2000's, traditional ships had "set" dinners and times (usually 2 seatings). With these, you were assigned a dinner table - often with other passengers - and one of the two scheduled times, for the duration of the cruise. It was a nice tradition which I really enjoyed. It gave you the opportunity to get to know other people a little better, and for the wait staff to get to know and normally "bond" with you. But for reasons I will note below, as we moved away from that model, I appreciated the benefits of the newer approach more than I missed the traditional one.


"Normal" Stateroom Balcony

MOST OF the cruise lines gradually moved away from the "set" dining model, to a more flexible (for the passenger - I am sure not so much for the staff) approach, opening the dining rooms from for a several hour window, and letting the passengers choose their approach. It is usually possible to make reservations (even the same one every night with the same wait staff if that is your choice) or to just show up as in a restaurant. That occasionally means a short wait, but we have never experienced more than about 10 minutes. Among the many "positives" of the traditional "set dining" model were some negatives. The main issue for us was that the first sitting was too early and the second, too late. We are often off the ship on excursions during the day, and it became almost stressful to try to get back to the ship, get cleaned up for dinner, and have a relaxing evening, perhaps with a before dinner cocktail in one of the many venues aboard. The late setting, on the other had, usually meant trying to juggle seeing the shows with the seating and completion of the meal. And for me, perhaps even worse, finishing dinner quite late (often 9:00 or after), which doesn't work well for digestion and sleeping later for many of us. The "anytime" approach allows us, like Goldilocks, to choose our own dining schedule.

I MENTIONED the buffet. That has been a somewhat more recent phenomenon (probably during that 1960 - 1980's period. Before then, there were no buffets. Just a dining room (or perhaps rooms). As things evolved, specialty dining became a thing. But also, the 24-hour buffet became a thing. I had visited my share of all-you-can-eat buffets over the years, long before I ever stepped over the rail of a cruise ship. Generally, these all-you-can-eat extravaganzas are not noted for cuisine. Just for quantity and selection. And they have proven out, in my experience, often with overcooked meats that rival cardboard for their edibility, fatty, fried foods, overcooked pastas, and pasty deserts. O.k., I'll just say it: crappy food. 😒 I had always had that preconceived idea of Cruise Line buffets. Before I began to explore cruising seriously, my idea of a cruise was just that. All-you-can-eat buffets, and old style, beat up, wooden deck chairs. But the reality pleasantly surprised me. The food in the dining rooms is generally as good as I can get in a high-quality restaurant. But even in the buffets, the food surpassed my expectations. Don't misunderstand. It is still buffet food, for whatever that may mean from ship to ship. While I understand the desire sometimes to just lay back and chill and make a run through the buffet, I think cruisers do themselves a disservice by not taking full advantage of the very good dining opportunities aboard - and away - from the buffet.


HOWEVER, SINCE the pandemic of 2021, things have again changed. There are mixed thoughts on whether this is a good thing or a bad thing, but beginning in 2023, one of the things we are seeing is changes to the buffet. The "all-night" buffet has actually been a thing of the past (at least for the mid and above lines), for a while now. But now (at least on Princess and Celebrity, and I suspect many - if not all - other lines), they are not only limiting the times the buffet is open, but also limiting the varieties of food offered at any particular time. This is particularly true at night. I think there are a combination of factors at work here. First, as "any time" style dining has become the norm, and as the world has become more casual in general (see below), there are simply many less passengers eating their evening meal in the buffet. Second, as at least one line has specifically suggested, they are trying to focus on their food management more - especially the amount of wasted food. For various regulatory reasons, there are not very many outlets for excess, unconsumed food for a cruise ship. Buffets - by their very nature - often result in a lot of wasted food. I eat 99% of my breakfasts, and lunch when onboard fairly often in the buffet. I haven't found any lack of food and for those two meals, the choices continue to be pretty good.

In my experience the line between regular dining and "chic night" is pretty well blurred. And I think we will see that continue over time

AT THE same time, the world - and therefore, the world of cruising - has become much more casual. I began my (white collar) career in the mid-1980's. We wore suit and tie to work and work functions. Many social functions were "dress up." Some even formal. Traditionally, dress was one of the things that was part of the planning/packing for cruising. I commented on this back at the end of 2022, in Packing for a Cruise. Somewhat more formal dress than is considered appropriate today was traditionally expected in the dining rooms (though not so much in the buffet - part of the reason some do not dine in the dining rooms very often). That generally meant no jeans and for men, a button shirt (either golf or similar has been acceptable as long as I have been cruising). It also meant (and still does on most lines) long pants for men. And most cruise lines had a couple "formal" nights in which the dress expectation was elevated. This meant, at least, a coat and tie, and at best, formal attire. I admit that I am one of those who loves formal dress. I have owned my own tux for most of the years we have been cruising, and loved to dress in it, with a variety of ties and shirts. It just felt good. But it came at a price (see the reference to packing, above). Bringing formal attire, along with the regular stuff you will wear on a cruise, meant substantially more stuff, and probably larger luggage (especially for taller, bigger people). And formal attire probably means additional shoes, which (again, at least for us bigger folk) more weight and bulk. Today, cruise lines have moved away from "formal" (most are not even calling it "formal" anymore - Celebrity, for instance, now refers to it as "Chic Night"), to something more like "business casual." Which is kind of amorphous in and of itself. Back when I was working, "business casual" meant at the very least, nice slacks and shoes, socks, and a button up shirt. Maybe even a jacket. Today's workplace continues to become less casual, and as it does, the definition of "Business Casual" is a moving target. Today, we see "designer" jeans (again, susceptible of changing definition) and any kind of "collared shirt" as acceptable for men. Women can judge accordingly, but certainly jeans and a nice blouse or shirt is acceptable for most occasions. In my experience the line between regular dining and "chic night" is pretty well blurred. And I think we will see that continue over time.


Cruise Ship Stabilizer

THERE IS one other area where cruise ships have evolved through their history. Early ships were not designed for luxury cruising or vacations. They were working ships, which either took passengers on, or were later re-purposed into ocean liners or cruise ships. Early passenger accommodations were tradition, with staterooms being inside the hull, often without windows, and certainly no balconies. As the "floating hotel" concept emerged, shipbuilders began to build the staterooms above the hull, allowing for balconies and views. That, of course, also made these ships more top heavy than in the past. I have sat around the pool on a windy day and noted that there is an angle of heel to the ship. That large structure above the gunwhales also acts very much like a sail! Efficiency has also become important in order to manage fuel costs. That large, torpedo-like appendage seen on the bow of many of today's ships is designed, for example, to break the forces against the bow and allow more efficient "entry" of the bow. At the same time, passenger comfort is also something that has evolved. Newer ships now have stabilizer mechanisms to "smooth out the ride," so to speak, in rough seas. And of course, since highly publicized series of breakdowns occurred a few years back (particularly several Carnival Cruise ships), regulations require all newer ships now to have dependable auxiliary power.

CRUISE LINES continue to evolve their ship offerings, in terms of both luxury and modern accommodations, and size. There is a very noticeable difference, for example, between Celebrity's very classy and classic "Millenium" class ships and their newer, more modern and perhaps more luxurious "Edge" class. And there are a couple new players on the block; notably Virgin Cruises, which offers a modern, technologically, and edgy cruise experience. While it may not be for everyone (I am probably in that "no" category), it is designed to appeal to a certain demographic, and judging from comments online, it will be one of those "love it or hate it," things. Interestingly, size is a divergent issue. While it appears that Celebrity and Princess have basically limited their size (newer ships are either not or only marginally larger capacity), other lines - notably Royal Caribbean - continue to offer larger and larger "megaship" experiences. Royal's "Wonder of the Seas," offered in 2022, holds nearly 7,000 passengers, while the newest current Celebrity Ship, The Beyond, has held just over 3,000 passengers. It will be interesting to see where the industry goes in the next decade.

Monday, April 17, 2023

The "Law" of The Sea

I RECENTLY read yet another reference to the much-maligned, "Jones Act," in a comment about rules and laws affecting cruise ships and cruising. I see that particular reference often. Having a legal background, I was at least vaguely aware that the act referred to ships and shipping and U.S. ports. More specifically, I knew that it also was "protectionist" in nature, as it placed restrictions on foreign ships in U.S. ports. But curiosity got the better of me. Something back in my long-ago memory didn't ring true here. I am not a maritime lawyer by any stretch of the imagination. 😅 My purpose here is as much entertainment as informational. I seriously doubt that this piece will change anybody's mind about their next cruise. So here is my take: As popular as it is to confidently throw out "The Jones Act," when opining about cruise ships rules, it is simply wrong!

The Passenger Vessel Services Act was enacted many years before The Jones Act

THE ACTUAL law these commenters are referring to is "The Passenger Vessel Services Act," of 1886 (a/k/a, PVSA), enacted many years before the Jones Act! The Jones Act (also sometimes known as "The Merchant Marine Act of 1920,) was enacted in 1920. Its primary sponsor was U.S. Senator Wesley Jones, a Washington State Republican. Its stated purpose was to stimulate and provide a strong U.S. Merchant Marine for commerce and national defense, following WWI (when much of the industry had been diverted to military use and shipbuilding, and suffered substantial depletion). However, when Jones was senator, Alaska was not yet a state (Alaska gained statehood in 1956). The Senator's (and former Congressman) other legislative activities makes it appear just as (or more) likely that his own motivation was to favor the Washington State shipping industry, ensuring its continued monopoly on shipping goods to Alaska by sea. The similarity in the language of the Jones Act suggests that its text was probably adopted from the PVSA's prior language.

The Jones Act says that a non-U.S. vessel may not transport goods from a U.S. port to another U.S. port

BOTH THE Jones Act and the (prior) Passenger Vessel Services Act have now been codified (added and organized into the U.S. Code system) under Section 46 U.S.C. They remain separate, but very similar provisions. The Jones Act essentially says that a non-U.S. registered ("flagged") vessel may not transport goods from a U.S. port to another U.S. port. Unless one considers the tons of food aboard cruise ships merchandise, technically, the Jones has little application to the industry.

IT IS the Passenger Vessel Services Act that really applies here. The applicable provision is 46 U.S.C., section 55103, which states (in relevant part): "a vessel may not transport passengers between ports or places in the United States . . . unless the vessel . . . is wholly owned by citizens of the United States." When last amended in 2006, the penalty for transporting passengers in violation of this provision was $300 per passenger (it is indexed for inflation - around $800 today). The actually applicable law - the PSVA - sponsored by Maine Republican Congressman, Nelson Dingley, was enacted 34 years before the Jones Act!

Why don't U.S. based cruise lines just flag their ships as U.S. ships?

THERE ARE exceptions and interpretations, which may go a long way toward explaining some of the itineraries and ports of departure and return of many of the cruise lines, from U.S. ports. For example, the PVSA has been interpreted to mean that a non-U.S. ship may depart from and return to a U.S. port, as long as passengers do not permanently leave the ship at any of the ports. So day excursions are not treated as a passenger disembarking from the ship). This explains most of the Caribbean and Bermuda cruises, as well as the "U.S." east coast cruises. The law has also been interpreted not to apply if the ship stops at (at least one) "distant" non-U.S. port during its trip. "Distant" means a port that is not in "North America." U.S. customs considers Bermuda, Bahamas and most Caribbean Ports (except Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao - the so-called "ABC" cruise) to be part of North America. But the rule may partially explain a transatlantic cruise which may make multiple U.S. stops. European destinations almost all start and finish in non-U.S. ports, so the PVSA would not apply.

WHY IS this even an issue? Why don't U.S. based cruise lines just flag their ships as U.S. ships? Well, there are several reasons. First, the text of the law suggests that the statutory definition of "U.S." based ships means that at least 75% of its ownership U.S. based, and the majority of the crew must be U.S. citizens. For anybody who has ever been on a cruise, you don't need to be a math prodigy to see that that won't work. 😀

Opting to register a ship in one of the "open-registry" countries gives the owner of the vessel (especially cruise ships) some significant advantages

FOR A ship to be US-flagged (registered) the ship must have been built in a US shipyard. The majority of large cruise ships are built in either Italy or Germany, (US shipyards primarily build military and cargo vessels). Most nations have a similar requirement (that in order to be registered in the country, the ship must have been built there), which is known as "closed registry." A few countries, however, have "open registries," including such countries as Panama, Bahamas, Bermuda and Malta. Because "I am a Celebrity," I will note here, that all but Celebrity's 3 "specialty" ships are registered in Valletta, Malta.

OPTING TO register a ship in one of the "open-registry" countries gives the owner of the vessel (especially cruise ships) some significant advantages. In a "white paper" by Caitlin Burke (I had some difficulty establishing whether this was for sure her, but it appears she graduated from The University of Florida in 2009, and then from The University of Miami Law School in 2014), the author notes that "by opting to re-flag in a new nation, a vessel owner becomes subject to the safety, labor and environmental codes of that nation." Not coincidentally, the most popular of the open registry countries tend to be those with the most liberal tax, labor, safety and environmental codes. This means that if they wish, cruise lines may pay workers lower wages (lower than U.S. minimum standards), require them to work longer hours, and allow them less leave time.

Not coincidentally, the most popular of the open registry countries tend to be those with the most liberal tax, labor, safety and environmental codes

THERE IS also the issue of liability (mainly to passengers for injury to person or property). According to Burke, "the legal rights and remedies of U.S. passengers are greatly inhibited." In keeping with her observations, The Federal Maritime Commission has noted that it has no authority over: "passenger line vessel operations, safety issues, amenities onboard vessels or fare levels," and that "for claims against cruise lines based in foreign nations, foreign laws may apply and claims may be resolved abroad." This should not come as a surprise for anyone who has slogged through the contract between you as a passenger and the cruise line (and you should so slog).

SO THERE you are. Your little bit of Cruise Line Legal trivia for the day. 😎 And remember, it is not the Jones Act. It's the PVSA! Cruise on.

Sunday, April 9, 2023

Paris (via LaHavre)

I TALK a fair amount here about our travels to some of the larger cities of the world. This is a cruise-oriented blog, but honestly, a single day cruise stop is not really the best way to see these cities. As I have mentioned before, I think that when you travel to a cruise embarkation destination, it is worthwhile to plan to arrive a few days early, and plan to spend some time in a major city at or near the cruise port. We have done that now with Barcelona, Venice, Rome, Athens, Amsterdam, Dublin, and London (cruise port was Southampton, about a 1-hour train ride away. I touched on this on last week's post, about our trip to London. Two years later, we booked a cruise out of Southampton. Generally, you will fly into London and find your way down to the port. We planned a full week in advance and from Heathrow, took and express train to our destination for the week, the Paddington Hilton. London requires at least a week, in my opinion.


Champs-Élysées

PARIS IS another one of those cities which really needs several day, at a minimum. That one is on our list for a more extended visit one day. But one of the things you can do on a cruise is at least see the city (perhaps at a glance) and determine whether it is one of those places worth spending more time. Some - to be frank - probably aren't.  If is certainly going to be different for each of us, but for example, for our stops last year in Helsinki and Stockholm, a day stop and an overnight were enough for me. Copenhagen, on the other hand, I wish we had spent at least an overnight in.

Arc de Triomphe and roundabout - Champs Elysees

OUR PORT the day after Dover was just across the English Channel: LaHavre, France. LaHavre is an interesting port, and there are decisions to make on a cruise stop there. Normandy is a distance of about 100 miles. But any student of history would want to visit the site of the U.S. Troop landing there - by all accounts, in spite of the violence and lost lives, the turning point in WWII. Paris is just about 100 miles in a different direction.


Paris Street from the Hop on - Hop Off Bus

I WOULD guess that the majority of passengers on our cruise chose Normandy and the beaches. I suspect that though it would be a full day's excursion, it is more manageable than trying to do Paris on a cruise stop. I am certain that our next time in LaHavre, that is what we will do.


Eiffel Tower

BUT IN this instance, we had some unusual (in our experience) circumstances. Because the trip across the Channel was short, we landed at LaHavre early the next morning. This was an overnight stop (interestingly, as we generally haven't experienced 2 overnight stops on a cruise). Anyway, the ship was not due to leave the port until midnight on the following day - giving us essentially 2 full days. Knowing this in advance, we booked a motel overnight in Paris, and railway tickets to and from. We arrived in Paris around 10:30 and were checked into our hotel by 11:00.


The Eiffel Tower from the Esplanade de Trocadéro

THERE ARE, of course, a few "must see" things in Paris. I suspect, like London, we could spend a week there and not get it all done. But we had to make the best of 2 days, and we surely got more out of that excursion than the London one. We had tickets with a late afternoon reservation for the Eiffel Tower, with entrance to the top. For the first afternoon, we bought "Hop on - Hop off" tickets for both the "Red Bus," and the water taxis. I have mentioned before here that we have found mixed results with the "Hop on - Hop off" systems, depending on the country and city running them. We have thought the ones in Dublin and London were very good, so we took a chance on Paris. That turned out to be good too. The nice thing about these is that they to a loop (or multiples) around most of the major attractions in a city. In Paris, that got us past the Louvre, The Notre Dame Cathedral, along The Champs-Elysees' and the Arc de Triomphe, and a few other notable sights. One of the stops (where we got off) is The Esplanade de Trocadéro, which is arguably the best place to photograph the Eiffel Tower from. A photographer can't visit Paris without photographing the tower. Multiple times. From multiple perspectives.


Paris - from The Eiffel Tower

AS DEMONSTRATED with the London shots from the London Eye, getting up high over a city can yield some pretty good photographs. In this case, our vantage point was from as high as you can go up in the Eiffel Tower. We had the good fortune (actually good planning by my wife, the travel coordinator) to get up there in the late afternoon and be there for the sunset.


Paris - from The Eiffel Tower

THE TOWER view provides a pretty nice perspective of the sun setting over the city. And being there after sunset, we were also able to photograph the Tower while it was lit up at night (see earlier image). The next day, I would have several other perspectives, from the water taxi ride we took up the Seine and Back.

Paris Sunset from The Eiffel Tower

THAT SUNSET
 picture might normally have been a great place to end the post. But we still had another nearly full day. The next morning, we walked about 1/2 block down the street from our hotel to a tiny little cafe that had an affiliation with our hotel and had a nice breakfast. Our next planned activity was a walking tour around the L'île de la Cité, the island in the middle of the Seine River where the Notre Dame Cathedral is located. A unique spot, it makes sets the Cathedral apart from the other city architecture and allows it to be a central attraction from both sides of the Seine, as well as from boats along the river.

Notre Dame Cathedral under repair (2019)

SADLY, SHORTLY before our trip, the Cathedral suffered a catastrophic fire (most will remember as it made the national news for a few days). Consequently, it was closed to the public and we weren't able to visit inside, or on the immediate grounds. We were kind of getting "euchred" on must see sights (with the Big Ben refurbishment in London, and now the Notre Dame). If there was one or two single sights in Paris I would have ticked off as "must see," the cathedral - for me- was second only to the Eiffel Tower. You make the best of the situation you are in, and we were able to see it from both sides of the river, and one of the bridges crossing onto the southeast end of the island. It is still a pretty impressive building, even with the damage showing. Hopefully, by the time we visit again, it will be repaired and open (like Big Ben was on our subsequent London visit).

Notre Dame Cathedral

OUR WALKING tour took us all the way around the Cathedral, as well as to a much older, gothic church on the south side of the river, the Gothic Architecture, St. Severin Church. We also walked around the neighborhood and got a bit of a history lesson.
St. Severin Catholic Church

AFTER A nice lunch at a delightful little sidewalk cafe in the shadow of Notre Dame, we boarded one of the "Hop on - Hop off" river boats for a short cruise up and down the Seine. There were some nice views of the cathedral, a couple other government and religious buildings, and of course, the Eiffel Tower (which is one of those monuments that can basically be seen from virtually every part of the city of Paris).

The Seine (the Louvre buildings are on the right)

View from the Seine; Paris

The Eiffel Tower, viewed from the Seine

ALL GOOD things eventually come to an end. After a long, eventful, nearly 2 days, it was time to head back to the train station, and ultimately back to the cruise ship. We were nearly done with the cruise.

Paris, France

I ALWAYS like to recall a funny or unusual anecdote here, when one arises. It is an exaggerated, and certainly unfair common assumption or characterization that the French people - especially in Paris - are rude to, and don't like Americans. I don't recall even a single small instance of rudeness (or even indifference for that matter) during our two days in Paris. Quite to the contrary, we found the people friendly, helpful, and pleasant. Ironically, my own belief is that there is a (perhaps small, but nonetheless visible) group of American tourists who often give their hosts in the country they are visiting good reason to "not like us." I may note (sometimes vocally) how I don't understand why they do things a certain way in another country from time to time. But I also recognize that they are from their own unique - and often different from my views - culture. And we are their guests! One thing they do in France (and I think the entire rest of the world could take a cue here), that is very different, is how they administer their taxi services. In most cities and towns, there is a designated "queue" for taxis, and the expected tradition is that you get in line. There is no stepping out into the street and flagging one down. And in most cases, if you are being picked up in a public area, you don't call for a cab. You go to the queue and stand in line. Taxis are next up - next served. Pretty calm. Pretty efficient. But non-Europeans don't "get" it. They still want to flag one down on the street. This evening, we got off the train in LeHavre and went to the line to taxi back to the cruise port. There were quite a few cruise passengers exiting the same train, with the same need to get back to the ship. They made it chaotic, even though the French cab drivers knew, and stuck to their own rules. As another cab came to the curb at the queue, we were next in line. But a somewhat loud and pushy lady stepped off the curb (not in her place in line) and started to get in the cab. Problem was that my wife had already gotten in on the other side and we were waiting to join her. The lady was incensed. She loudly insisted that she had called this cab for her party, and that this was her cab! My wife said: "no, this is our cab." The lady said: "how do you know it is your cab?" She responded: "it's my cab because I am in it, and you aren't even properly in line." 😀 She huffed that she had called the cab, but our driver confirmed that they don't even do that. She had probably called the company, who told her one would be coming - because they were doing that all evening.  Relax. Enjoy. Don't be entitled. 😇

The iconic entrance to The Louvre; Paris