Sunday, March 29, 2026

2017 - Malta

Valletta, Malta
Copyright Andy Richards 2017 - All Rights Reserved

T
HIS IS probably really unfair, but I rate Malta as one of the least engaging European destinations we have visited. Circumstances, of course, temper the experience and perception. It is one place we didn't book any kind of tour.

Ft. St. Angelo - Birgu, Malta (directly across the Grand Harbor from Valetta)
Copyright Andy Richards 2017 - All Rights Reserved

INSTEAD, WE opted for the Hop on - Hop off bus around the city. We sometimes do that early in order to get a feel for a place. However, we have found the Hop on - Hop off systems to be quite inconsistent from one place to another. Our first experience was in Dublin, Ireland in 2014. We spent a day there and an overnight before joining a group of O'Brien Estate Vineyard patrons for a week-long, land-based trek over The Republic of Ireland. We thought it was terrific. Conveniently for us, one of the stops was very close to our Hotel. The narrative was good, and we really did get a kind of "birds-eye" view of the city and its high points. We would spend another couple days in Dublin at the end of that trip, and the bus system really gave us a "leg up," we thought. You purchase tickets (either all-day, or several day) and as the name implies, you can get on and off as many times as you want, as often as you want. At least, that is the idea. In reality, it doesn't always work as smoothly.

The Grand Harbor - Valletta, Malta
 Copyright Andy Richards 2017 - All Rights Reserved

VALLETTA WAS, I am pretty sure, our second time using the Hop on - Hop off system. This time it was not so good. They were so crowded that if you weren't in line where the route begins, your chances of getting on one of them at any other stop were virtually nill. To us, it appeared as if this was true during the entire day we were there. So even though there was a stop or two that we might have gotten off and explored, we didn't dare get off, for fear we would not get back on and make it back to the ship (we didn't really think about it, but we probably could have done a taxi - but that's not the point). When the weather is decent, the open upper deck of these buses afford the best "open air" view. When the weather is inclement, though, the experience isn't as pleasant. Temperatures were well in to the 80's the day we were there, and the sky was clear. By the time we got on the bus, the upper deck was the only place there were seats. We roasted. Given the route, and the traffic, the full circuit on the bus was nearly 3 hours. And in the middle of the circuit, without explanation or communication of any nature, the driver parked and shut the bus down. He walked into a cafe for a break. Nobody on the bus had any idea what was going on (for at least 10 - 15 minutes).

Valletta, Malta
Copyright Andy Richards 2017 - All Rights Reserved

I SUPPOSE I shouldn't let a pretty bad experience on the Hop on - Hop off bus color our entire experience in Malta. NOr should I let the Malta experience completely color my view of the Hop on Hop off system (though we had a similar sketchy experience in Helsinki, Finland, a few years later). On the trip around the coast, we could see that the "stay and play" aspects of Valletta could probably be very fun. Lots and lots of bars and restaurants, and many marinas, filled with pleasure boats, dotted the entire coast. I also know there are several forts around Malta and near and around Valletta. There is also the huge and visually impressive Grand Masters Palace (our bus did a circle around it, but as noted, we didn't dare get off to explore it if we ever wanted to get back on and complete the circuit). The city is architecturally pretty impressive, also.

Valletta is the Flag location for all of Celebrity's Cruise ships

MOST OF my photography that day consisted of things around the port and near our ship's berth. I have noted here before that it is usually pretty challenging to make photos from a moving platform like a bus. I did catch a couple. At one time the administrative center for the Catholic Military Order: The Knights of St. John (a/k/a The Nights Hospitallier), the island was ruled by them for many years, until the eventual capture of Malta by Napoleon (after which the order more or less dispersed from all of its bases around the world). Though originally inhabited by the Phoenicians, and later Romans, most of the significant architecture occurred during re-building under the Knights of St. John's control. It was primarily "Renaissance" architechture; followed later by Baroque, Neo-Gothic, and Neo-Classical. Later yet, after WWII, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, and modern styles emerged.

There is also significant commercial shipping activity along the wharf adjacent to the cruise terminal - Valletta, Malta
Copyright Andy Richards 2017 - All Rights Reserved

I SUSPECT the majority of my readership here are from the U.S. and it is perhaps appropriate to acknowledge the significance of Malta to our nation. Our relationship dates back to the U.S. Revolutionary war when the Knights were a significant ally to our fledgling nation, particularly in helping to persuade the French Navy to assist us. During WWII, it was a critical staging point for Allied (British and U.S.) military planes.

Our Ship Docked at its Home Port - Valletta, Malta
Copyright Andy Richards 2017

THERE IS one other point of importance to me (and maybe other cruisers). With the exception of three of its ("Explorer Class") fleet, Valleta is the Flag location for all of Celebrity's Cruise ships! One thing I do know is that if Valletta is ever a stop again on one of our cruises, we will certainly try to book an excursion/guided tour.

Sunday, March 22, 2026

2017 - Sicily

Messina, Sicily
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WE HAD such a great time in Venice that it would be hard to top it. After boarding the Reflection, our first two stops - in my mind at least - bore that out. But comparing almost anything to Venice is probably unfair.

Sunset Bar - Celebrity Reflection
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WHAT DID completely satisfy, though, was that The Celebrity Reflection fit with my memory. Now our 3rd voyage on the ship, it was everything I remembered, and it was fun to show Paul and Linda around the ship. Our first day was at sea. Paul and I spent a lot of time on the back at the Sunset Bar on this cruise, even shutting it down a couple times. We got to be on a very close basis with the bar crew there, including the head bartender, Charel, as well as Andrew, and Punta. Lots of laughs, a few drinks, and a cigar or two.

My Buddy, Paul, with a cigar and probably the biggest Gin & Tonic he had ever been served
(That's our new buddy, bartenter Puta, in the background)
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OUR FIRST port stop was Messina, Sicily. We had sailed by Messina on a couple of occasions, making the passage from The Ionian Sea into the Tyrrhenian Sea through the Strait of Messina. The Strait is the the narrowest water between Sicily and mainland Italy, narrowing to under 2 miles just north of Messina. On a clear day, you can easily see both land points as you sail through.

Strait of Messina - Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2022- All Rights Reserved

WE SPENT very little time in Messina. Basically a quick drive around to a couple of the scenic points, and a stop at the town center where the church and a really cool movement in the bell tower at the end of the day. In 2022, my wife and I would spend some time in the city and learn that it is a very nice, kind of smallish city - much like the place we lived for many years (Saginaw, Michigan). This trip though, we had scheduled a tour south along the coast, visiting volcanic Mt. Etna, but first stopping in Taormina, a coastal village south of Messina, known as the gateway to the numerous little villages and scenes for the famous Godfather movies. Taormina's origins date back to the ancient Greeks, was actually popular prior to its "Godfather fame," though as a haven for artists and gay men as far back as the early 19th century. It was also the headquarters of the German Werhmacht during WWII.

Taormina, Sicily
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WE ALSO made a brief stop in Savoca, a picturesque little village up in the mountains, made famous by movie maker Francis Ford Coppola, who shot scenes from the Godfather movies in and around the village, as well as a couple other nearby villages - as the home/headquarters of the Corleone family.

Francis Ford Coppola Marker - Savoca, Sicily
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WE MADE the "mandatory" stop and look in to the famous "Godfather Bar," Bar Vitelli, the spot of the famous proposal scene in the movie. Timing is everything, and I had the good fortune to have camera in hand to catch the dog being shot for what seemed to me to be a beer advertisement.

Bar Vitelli, Savoca, Sicily
Copyright Andy Richards 2017


Bar Vitelli - Savoca, Sicily
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LOOKING DOWN from Chiesa di San Nicolò, the little 13th century church at the very top of the hill (where Michael Corleone and Apollonia's iconic wedding scene was filmed), it is easy to see the visual appeal of this little village. We moved on from there to the famous, vocanic Mt. Etna.

Savoca, Sicily
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THE LARGEST, and one of the most active volcanos in Europe, Mt. Etna just began early eruption activity around Christmas (2025). In its history, there has been near constant activity. You can see from the photo that there is also rather constant tourist activity at this UNESCO World Heritage site. We did not climb or go up it, but just observed from the base station.

Mt. Etna - Taormina, Sicily
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OUR DAY (and tour) ended back in the city of Messina. We were first treated to the view down on the city from up high, as shown in the opening image above. The we drove down to the Messina Cathedral (just a couple city blocks from the cruise port), where we saw the mechanical astronomical clock with is part of the Cathedral. Built by the Normans in the early 12th century, the Cathedral is now the Catholic Diocese of Messina. Almost completely destroyed by the devastating earthquake of 1908 (which destroyed much of the city, resulting in massive rebuilding and a city ordinance forbidding any building to be taller than 2 stories - except for the Cathedral). Most of the building that stands today was rebuilt after the earthquake, but the tower, much of the exterior walls, the gothic archway and the apse all remained standing after the quake.

Messina Cathedral - Messina, Sicily - Mechanical Astronomical Clock works
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THE ASTRONOMICAL clock and carousel were added in 1933. The carousel was on the ground in 2017 as repairs were being done on the tower. The bell tower is said to be the largest "choir" in Sicily. Our tour ended here, and we walked the couple short blocks back to re-board our Celebrity Reflection.

Sunday, March 15, 2026

2017 - Back Again to the Mediterranean

[I got my post order mixed up here, posting about Venice last week first, when it really chronologically should have followed this one. No matter. Venice was not really part of the actual Cruise, so this one intro's the cruise and away we go]

Water Taxi from Marco Polo - On our way to Venice
Copyright Andy Richards 2017 - All Rights Reserved

WE DIDN'T cruise at all in 2016 or in early 2017. But in September, we returned to to cruising and to the Mediterranean. And Paul and Linda were joining us again! There were just too many things we missed last time. And we wanted them to experience Celebrity, which by then had become our favorite cruise line.

Celebrity Reflection - Valletta, Malta
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SO WHEN a Mediterranean Cruise on our favorite Celebrity Ship - The Celebrity Reflection - showed up with an itinerary that fit the criteria of coverage of almost all of what we wanted to see in more depth, we jumped on it. This one would start in Civitavecchia (the nearest seaport to Rome). I said "almost" above, because the itinerary was missing perhaps our #1 venue: Venice, Italy!

Venice, Italy
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NO MATTER. We just added our own leg to the trip, flying into Venice's Marco Polo Airport and staying in a vrbo property on the island for 3 nights, before taking the train to Civitavecchia the day before our cruise. I am glad we did that. We have some wonderful memories of those days in Venice. Today that is really the only way you are going to see Venice. Since 2021, Venice no longer allows mainline cruise ships to enter or dock in the lagoon.

Sicily, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 

VENICE NO longer allows large cruise ships in the main lagoon and all but the smallest ships must now make their port stops in either Ravenna (70 miles south) or across the Adriatic Sea to Trieste (60 miles). Neither are really very convenient to Venice, just another one of those disingenous instances where the ship says the port is "X" - "for Venice." Not really.

Mykonos, Greece
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MY OWN slant on Venice, though, is that it is really not a place you can see in a day's port stop. In 2013, our first trip there, we arrived 3 days before our boarding day. We made use of every minute of that time. Since then we have never been there without planning at least 3 full days before or after any other leg of a trip (in our case, cruises all three times).

Celebrity Reflection - Rhodes, Greece
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FROM CIVITAVECCHIA, our ship stopped at nine pretty amazing Mediterranean ports (mostly what I would deam "bucket-list" stops): Sicily, Malta, Mykonos, Rhodes, Santorini, Athens, Naples and then back to Civitavecchia ("for Rome").

Celebrity Reflection - Santorini, Greece
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OF THOSE stops, we had never been to Santorini (and it was high on my list) Malta, or Rhodes. Paul and Linda had been to Athens and Rome with us (in 2015). We were excited for this one. My wife - the consummate travel planner - did a splendid job of setting us up with hotels, tours, and transportation.

Athens, Greece
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WHILE WE have had great guide experiences around the world over the years, I think we may have had some of our best and most memorable on this trip. Follow us here, for the next few weeks on our adventures in the Med.

Amalfi, Italy
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