Sunday, December 25, 2022

Packing For a Cruise

Merry Christmas Cruisers!
DISCLAIMER. MY packing thoughts will mostly apply to men. I am probably not the best person to advise women on either what to pack or how to do it best. 😐 But I do think some of the general thoughts apply equal to both men and women. This isn't going to be a checklist, but for a pretty good one, look here.


It is not lost on me that I am posting this blog on Christmas Day. So, I want to say first: “Merry Christmas” to all. It is also the holiday season, so those who may not celebrate Christmas, and those who celebrate other holidays this time of year, Happy Holidays to you also!

I also know that many folks are traveling during the holidays. I am always surprised at the number of Holiday Cruisers we have. And, with the New Year on the way, many more cruisers and cruises will be seeking warm weather (primarily in the Caribbean). So, the topic is timely.

As I post this, we are personally just a week away from another cruise adventure. This time, it is a new ship: The Oceania Nautica, and a new part of the world: South Africa. The venue presents some packing challenges for me, as I have not been to this part of the world before. It appears to us that there is a lot of open grasslands, as well as seaside locations. It also appears that on many of our ports of call, we will be visiting animal preserves or doing “safari-type” excursions. I am also reading that it will be warm (January is said to be the hottest month in South Africa). Conditions will likely be windy, and there is a lot of sand which is also likely to be blowing around. Those things mean warm-weather clothes, but probably long-sleeved and perhaps pants (instead of shorts). As covered in this blog post, the type of fabric I prefer these days should stand me in good stead. I may have revisions to add here upon my return. In the meantime, I wish everyone a great holiday season and a happy and prosperous New Year!



WHEN WE started cruising, I would basically just wing it. There wasn't a whole lot of information out there that we knew about. Sometimes books, like Rick Steves' series would help. Sometimes you could find an internet article (but there is so much misinformation out there on the "net"). Mostly, we learned by trial and error, and our own experience. I will try to point out some of the "trial" that was not "error." 😀


CRUISING HAS changed since we started. 15 years ago, the mid-range cruise lines like Celebrity, Princess, Holland America, Norwegian, MST, and the like, were pretty similar. They had a large main dining room with "set" tables and times. Depending on the length of the cruise, there were 2 or more nights designated as "formal night." And they were formal. Lots of men wore tuxes, and most others, at least a suit. Women wore formal wear. I packed a suit for the first 2 cruises. At some point during my "real life," I chaired a foundation board, and the duties occasionally required a tux. So, I bought one, and thereafter, for the next few cruises, I packed and wore my tux. I am a reasonably big person, at nearly 6'2'' and over 200 lbs. My clothes aren't small. The one and only time I envy some of my smaller friends is when it comes to packing for travel. 😈

ALASKA, OUR first cruise, also meant cooler weather, bulkier clothing and rain gear. The Caribbean is easier - shorts, flip flops, t-shirts. But again, for the first several cruises, the formal wear still came along. And carrying and keeping the formal clothes reasonably wrinkle-free was a luggage challenge. I eventually found that my best result was to pack in a large (check size) rolling garment bag. I was able to get everything but my needed carryon gear in that bag. But it was heavy, wide, and unwieldy. Being a photographer, I also had to bring a carryon bag large enough to hold my camera and lenses, as well as electronics, etc. It was a heavy load. But for the most part, it was doable, as we generally only had to take it from airport to taxi to the ship, and then could drop the big stuff off shipside.

Large Rolling Garment Bag

THEN WE started to go to Europe. Which brings up an important point: what you pack will be influenced by your destination and what you will be doing. If you are leaving from a local cruise port that you can drive to, you can pretty much take anything you can reasonably handle (heck, steamer trunks if you are so inclined). But most of our cruises leave from a distant port which involves flying and sometimes train travel, to get to the point of embarkation. Again, given our relative inexperience, and in the early years, lack of good "intel," we were still winging it. Our first cruise (also our first trip) to Europe was in 2013. It was only our 4th cruise, so we considered ourselves beginners, still. Our cruise on the Royal Princess (a brand-new ship and class in 2013) began in Venice, Italy, and was scheduled to end in Barcelona, Spain. The subject of another dedicated post (Expanding Our Travel Horizons - "Murphy's Law"), that cruise could have been "the cruise/trip from Hell," but turned out all right. We were still doing set table, set dining at that point, as well as the formal nights. So, the huge roller garment bag was still part of the deal. We decided to spend a few nights in Venice prior to boarding the ship. That was our first acquaintance with cobblestone streets and sidewalks that are found all over Europe, and with foot bridges and steps in Venice. Dragging luggage around can be a slog!

Cobblestones and Bridges in Venice
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

BUT WE also had no idea what to wear in Europe, and the information we were consuming, unfortunately, wasn't truly accurate information. At least not for the times. For example, the pundits held that in Europe, men mostly wear long pants and leather shoes. Bright colors and such were frowned upon. They were generally more stylish than we "casual Americans" were. And if we dressed like we often do here at home, we would just be being those dumb, ugly Americans. Sounds good in a travel book. And we took it to heart. But the actual, on-the-ground reality does not comport with this. I don't think those "pundits" were purposely misleading. Nor do I think they were ignorant. What I do think is that for times past, they were absolutely correct. But times had changed. Apparently faster than published works had.

we have found that shorts, tennis shoes (sneakers to some), and comfortable clothing is the norm, both for tourists and for the locals (weather permitting, of course)

HAVING BEEN in Europe now a few times, we have found that shorts, tennis shoes (sneakers to some), and comfortable clothing is the norm, both for tourists and for the locals (weather permitting, of course). It is very common to see locals wearing t-shirts, shorts and sandals. And even the pants being worn these days are for utility and comfort. Of course, there are exceptions. Visiting certain sites (like the Vatican) requires long pants for men. In some parts of the country, women are required to wear head coverings. But mostly, it is comfortable and casual.

AND, LIKE the on-the-ground changes, cruise lines have also moved to a much more informal dress code. The lines we frequent still require pants and collared shirts in the dining rooms (at least for the dinner meal). But a polo shirt and well-pressed "khakis" will easily suffice (indeed, I am informed by a significant number of online posters, that jeans - as long as not ripped or otherwise inappropriate - are now allowed on some lines). "Formal" has now been changed to "Smart Casual." By observation, these days I don't see much difference between the accepted wear from night to night - formal or not. To be sure, some folks still dress up. We even see a few tuxes around on those formal nights. But for the most part not so much. I usually wear "dress casual" pants and a button up shirt for the formal nights. The only change from that to regular nights is that I wear a nice quality polo (golf) shirt on those nights. Am I the best dressed guy in the place? Nope. But I don't really think anyone either judges or truly cares these days. A confession: I miss those days (I surely don't miss the luggage 😰). While my wife and I disagree on the point, I really enjoyed dressing up in a tux, with the frilly shirt, button studs and the (yes, I tied my own) bow ties. I still have the tux hanging far in the back of the closet, along with several bow ties, cuff links, etc. But I am probably dreaming to think I'll ever wear any of them again. These days, the idea for me is not to stand out (in a bad way, at least). The new "smart attire" is meant to be the floor. You can go as formal as you wish from there. Here are the (verbatim) guidelines from the lines I normally cruise. But you should check with the particular cruise line. Nobody likes surprises.

From Princess

  • Smart casual:
    Dress the same way you would do for a visit to a restaurant at home. Skirts, dresses or trousers with t-shirt or blouse for ladies, trousers and shirt or polo shirt for gentlemen. Shorts and swimwear are not allowed in the restaurant.
  • Formal (optional):
    Evening gown, cocktail dress or pantsuits for ladies, suit, combination or dinner jackets for gentlemen.

From Celebrity

  • Women should feel comfortable wearing:

    A cocktail dress, 
    Skirt, pants or designer jeans with an elegant top

  • Men should feel comfortable wearing:
Pants or designer jeans with a dress shirt, button-down shirt or sweater 
 
Optional sport coat or blazer

THESE DAYS, my packing mantra is to pack as light as possible, within the range of acceptability. So, with that in mind, here are some of my "packing" thoughts:

WHAT TO PACK:

Do Not Overpack. That's worth repeating. Do not overpack. This is my advice. I don't always follow it well. Even now, I often look back and say, I could have gotten along easily without this or that item. I didn't even use it. But I have gotten much better and have it down to a pretty good science. I normally travel with a carry-on size or the smallest check-size spinner rolling bag, and an under-seat size personal bag for cruise trips. Our trips are usually 15-20 days. I check the carryon when I use it - it's just my personal size limitation. And believe me, it is much easier to roll around on the ground and to load on and off trains, subways, and the like. But here's the thing: You don't need a separate change of clothes for every day of the trip. It is ok to wear the same item or items multiple times. Other than your close personal travel companion(s), most of the people you see, are never going to see you again. Trust me; nobody will notice that you wore that once already. And honestly, so what if they did? Isn't this about having fun and being comfortable?

Pack Synthetic Clothes. The days of cotton and heavy wool are gone. The only major exception to that may be the new, so-called, "smart wool." I am seeing claims of light weight wool that packs well and can handle multiple wearing. I haven't tried it yet. I might in the future. But so far, I have been very happy with what I have been using. Anyone my age or older remembers the original "polyester" fabrics. Yuck. Hot. Sticky. Fake looking. They were awful. But like cruising, fabrics have changed. A lot. 

Shirts. I'm not sure who first came up with "performance" fabrics (think Nike "dry fit" or almost anything Under Armor makes). But they were onto something. They resist sweat and sweat odor. They stay dry and they rapidly dry if they get wet. One added major plus is that they can be hand-washed if there are no other laundry facilities and hung to dry overnight. And they are virtually impossible to wrinkle. I have 3 different types I pack. Again, the mix depends on what I am going to be doing. My "go-to" are the synthetic long sleeve and short sleeve T-shirts (Under Armour, Colombia, HUK fishing, or similar). These are light enough not to be too hot in warm or sunny weather, but have just enough added warmth and coverage. And they make a great insulating layer underneath a fleece or rain cover. I know I am going to be spending a fair amount of time every day on the ship deck (usually the back for me), and these are my perfect onboard wear. I will pack about 5 of each of them. They are feather light and take up very little packing space. Again, wrinkles aren't a worry. I also usually pack (wear one on the plane) a couple of the button up Columbia fishing shirts. Again, ultralight, comfortable, and no wrinkle worries. Finally, I pack 4-5 polo/golf shirts. These tend to be the nicer quality ones I can find in the "dry-fit" style (Nike makes a really nice, very lightweight one). These are suitable for wear in the Dining room, or for on shore if you like. You can decide your own mix and match. The point is that these fabrics pack light, are not bulky at all, and are both comfortable and acceptable.

Pants. There are going to be times when pants are required (e.g., places like the Vatican require legs to be covered). But that doesn't mean you need to be hot and uncomfortable. I travel with 2-3 pairs of Columbia (just my brand of choice - anything similar works), something like their "Silver Ridge" pant. Likewise I carry 2-3 pairs of shorts of similar fabric. These are generally 100% nylon, or a blend very close to that. They are breathable and comfortable. Best of all, they pack wonderfully well and because of their look and style, wrinkles just aren't a worry. I plan the mix depending on how warm the weather will be and what I will be doing.

Here's the thing: You don't need a separate change for every day of the trip

"Formal" Wear. These shirt and pant combinations may not work for formal night (I haven't tried). I have a very small, light, hanging "bag" that goes in the checked bag that I use to pack 1-2 button down shirts and 1-2 dressier (still usually synthetic "dress casual") pants. Wrinkle-free button-down shirts are difficult to find (in spite of the manufacturers' claims), but there is one that I have recently found from Clothing Arts. I bought and traveled with one of their button downs on my last European Cruise and with a little careful packing, it did remain truly wrinkle-free. I would recommend it. There are others out there (i.e., Proper Cloth) that make the same claim. I haven't used them yet. I also really like the Columbia long sleeve button down shirts. Like the pant, their design means wrinkles are not a huge worry. There are wrinkles, but they don't look bad. My complaint is that on the nicer, apparently dressier styles, they still have that (not so dressy) "Columbia" label in white across the breast pocket. For dress, I don't want to sport logos. That has ruled them out. Maybe someone from Columbia is reading here and will remedy that in the future. Yeah, right.😎

Footwear. This is one category in which I have struggled with the most over the years. My feet are large. I often think the advertising industry uses smaller foot sizes when hawking travel products and packing methods. I wear an 11 or 12 U.S. men's shoe. I'll bet I am not that unique. Shoes are the single most bulky item to pack and the most difficult to work with when trying to pack "small." Back in "the day," I had to pack a pair of dress shoes (to go with the tux), as well as casual shoes, walking around shoes (usually tennis shoes), and usually flip flops (for on the ship). That is almost a carryon bag in and of itself. I still see guys that pack that many pairs. No idea how they do it. I do have a larger check bag that I probably could do so with, but at the expense of more weight and size. Women? I have no words. 😇 Now that we have moved to casual, my goal (and as I write this today, somewhat joyfully, I think I may have reached it) is to have 2 pairs. One is my trusty flip flops. The other is a "hybrid" shoe that works (as the advertisement says) "equally on the beach or in the boardroom." In other words, I wanted a pair that I could get away with in the dining room on formal night, and with shorts for those times off the ship when I need them.

Footwear is the item I have struggled with the most over the years

I have learned that I can get by on shore 90% of the time with flip flops. The key here, is that they have to be good quality flips with good footbeds. On one cruise I walked around on shore with an inexpensive pair of leather flips. I didn't notice it during the week, but after I got home, I had terrible foot and ankle pain for a week or so. If you are going to wear them a lot, and depend on them for some support, it is worth paying something for them. Expect to pay $100 on average for a good pair of VionicSpenco, Teva, Columbia, Clarks, or the like. For me, the best combination of lightweight, support, comfort and style, has been a pair of Olukai Ohana flips. I don't get paid by Olukai (wish I did 😑). But I will say I have now used them on two 15+ day trips; worn them 80% of the time and had no feet problems. But it is worth going to a store where they have high quality flips and a few different brands so you can try them to see what is going to be comfortable for you.

Actual shoes are another issue. I have had varying success. I have a pair of Columbia shoes that are featherlight, fit like slippers and look good enough for the beach. But they just aren't classy enough to really pull of the "boardroom" look. I have some other pairs, including a Born pair that have the looks, and at first blush, seemed very comfortable. I am sure they have good support. And I would guess that with the right pair of socks, they would be o.k. I guess I didn't mention that I only wear socks at gunpoint these days. 😅 Without socks, I developed painful blisters on both little toes after about a day of walking. But I finally have found what I think and hope to be the answer. Once again, Olukai. This time the Moloa. Olukai touts them as "beach to boardroom" capable. I am not sure I would go that far, but they are certainly fine for smart casual, and also look good with shorts. I wore them much of the time on a 15-day trip to Portugal in May that had a lot of walking involved. No issues.

The Takeaway Here, is that you have to find something comfortable, lightweight and low bulk for you. For most people, I suspect that will be a non-bulky, semi-dressy shoe and sneakers

 

Underwear. Yep, I am really going to go there, guys. And it is an area that I promise you I can only cover from the men's perspective. 😎 It is really a pretty critical category. This will especially be the case where you are in a hot or humid environment and have to do a fair amount of walking around. I get that choice of underwear is a very personal thing. But whether its "tighty-whities," or full boxers, or whatever works for you in between, there are some important concerns. Shore excursions can include a lot of walking and is sometimes much like hiking. I am one who perspires rather easily, and things can get kind of warm and uncomfortable "down there" after a long day of walking. And many of us (a daresay most of us) can have times when there are chafing issues. So, this is an important consideration to think about and maybe even experiment with. Again, I am going to recommend synthetic fabrics. For "hiking" I think cotton is out of the question. But I have also learned you have to be careful about "what" synthetics.

 A few years back, I ordered some Ex Officio brand in my favorite fit. The cheapest were white and that is what I ordered. I loved them. Enough that I bought a couple more pairs. The new ones were dyed a grey color. For whatever reason, they are not as comfortable or effective at wicking (I have read similar comments since then on some of the customer reviews on Amazon - so I am not dreaming this up). Something to consider. There are a few new "shapes and sizes" out there to address the chafing problem. It is worth some time and consideration, as being uncomfortable there can make for a really unpleasant day. I have tried a couple other brands. I keep coming back to the Ex Officio (which are - unfortunately also Ex Pensive 😜). I can't say what is best for you. But I can confidently say it is worth the some thought and planning, to avoid an unpleasant day ashore.

HOW TO PACK

Do Not Overpack. Oops. Did I say this already? Well, I did say it was worth repeating. As noted above, you probably don't need near what you think you do. And by packing "small and light," you will be able to keep your baggage small and light. Not only will this help you keep within the airline weight limits, but it will save your body too. Think carefully about the other things you will or will not need. Will you spend any time in the pool or hot tub? Then you may need to consider a bathing suit or two. You don't need 5 of them. Personally, I stay away from those "petri dishes" myself. I get plenty of pool time at home. So swimming gear is not on my packing list.
Packing Cubes

Packing Cubes. This is a debated topic. Some think they add bulk. Some favor the old "roll your clothes" method, or some other packing style. After several years of trying both ways, I have come down in favor of packing cubes. I am not sure they save any room. But I do think they help me to be better organized. I also like that I can pull the cubes out and put them on shelves or in drawers, without unpacking their entire contents. I have learned a couple little tricks though. First, don't pack them too thick. I find thin layers work best in a suitcase, even if it means more of them. Measure your bag dimensions before choosing packing cube sizes. The best cubes will be a good fit within your bag's dimensions. But at the same time, the cubes have to fit your clothing articles. It is likely to be a compromise. Like everything else being packed, lighter is better. You may also want a variety of sizes - but not too much variety. I have 3 different ones. I use one very small one and one larger one. The rest are all the same - a medium size. You may have to experiment. I have some cubes from a local big box store (cheapest and "flimsiest"), some from Amazon, and some from Eagle Creek. The Eagle Creek cubes are the sturdiest. They are also stiffer and heavier than the others. I have had the "flimsy" ones for several years now, and they have worked fine for a number of trips. They are not getting beat up. I like them because they serve the purpose and are very light. They pack easily. Most recently, I put some tags on the zippers of each cube, with a label telling me what is in the cube. I have been accused in the past of being anal. Maybe. But even using different colors, I sometimes forget which cube holds what. The labels will help me quickly identify what is where. YMMV.

When packing your bags, be mindful of what is permissible in checked bags, and what you can carry on. Note that the rules may not be the same for international travel. Lithium batteries are required to be carried on - not in your check bag. Conversely, liquids and semi liquids (greater than 3.4 oz) must be in your checked bag.

There are going to be certain things you don't want to entrust to the baggage handling part of travel. I carry a small "ditty" bag with travel sized toothbrush, toothpaste, and any other similar items I may need during travel or after landing that I couldn't do well without for a couple days. Medications are critical. I also realized on a recent trip that you may want to consider taking extra medication, unless you are detained out of the country for some reason (most recently, testing positive for Covid-19).
 
Your Other Stuff. I carry a camera and a couple lenses, and a tablet. I keep these items in my carry-on bag, along with phone, watch, batteries, passport and vaccination records, cash, driver's license, etc. Basically, anything I don't want to get lost or stolen or think I will need.

LUGGAGE

This is going to be very much a matter of personal choice. I have traveled with people who get virtually everything they need for a 2-week trip in a small carry-on bag, people who use only soft duffels and backpacks, and people who bring 2 of the largest possible check bags along with carry-on bags). As I mentioned earlier, some of this is also going to depend on how large a person you are. At over 6' and a 11-12 shoe size, my packing needs are greater than the guy who is 5'7" and wears a size 8 shoe. My best buddy is in the latter category, and he is able to travel for a week at a time with a carry-on sized bag, including a couple suits or sport jackets. Like I said, it is probably the only time I have ever envied his smaller size.

The industry seems to have landed on a set of "standard" sizes. For me, they don't really work
I am somewhere in between. Like a lot of people, I have several bags in the closet, from a rolling duffel (which is probably the ideal size for me - but I prefer the spinner style these days), a "medium" check bag and the largest permissible carry-on spinner. None of them are really my "perfect" bagMy perfect bag would be just slightly larger than my carry-on size, but substantially smaller than the check bag. Everything fits in my carry-on bag, but it is always a very tight fit. Problem is, nobody makes a bag that is "just right" (am I sounding a little like the 3 bears here?). As I will note below, I have learned to use quality stuff, even if you pay more for it. I have had all my current bags now for a few years and all have made multiple trips. They do not show any signs of excessive wear. But the industry seems to have landed on a set of "standard" sizes. For me, they don't really work. I want to travel small and light. In my current bags of choice (Travelpro), they go from my carry-on to their next size, the "medium" check bag. It is virtually identical to my carry-on; just bigger. Too much bigger. It increases by a good 5" in height, over 2" in width, and almost 3" in depth. That may not seem like much, but in terms of overall size and more-importantly, packing space, it is huge! My ideal would add maybe 2-3" to height, not more than 2 inches in width and 2" in depth. It would not be carry-on size, but it would be almost as small and manageable, which for me, is key. But nobody seems to make that bag. 😞 Any quality luggage makers reading this?

Wheels or Not? In 1986, an airline pilot designed an upright bag with wheels and a retractable handle, intending them for airline employees who are always traveling with a bag. With this "Rollaboard," the Travelpro company was founded, and shortly thereafter, most major luggage makers were offering wheeled bags. By 2004 the 4-wheeled "spinner" bags had become popular. On our first European cruise, I carried my 2-wheeled, Eagle Creek rolling duffel bag. As I have mentioned, for packing, it was really my ideal case size (just slightly larger than my carry-on). But I quickly began to envy my fellow travelers (including my wife) who all had the 4-wheeled bags. The problem with the two-wheeled bags is that you basically have to pull them behind you, which is awkward and gets tiring if you walk a long way (and these days, especially when an international terminal is involved, airports can involve long walks). The 4-wheeled bags seemed to glide effortlessly along and were easy to push right next to you. So, by the time of our next trip, I had acquired my Travelpro 25" check bag. There are pros and cons. The 4-wheelers don't roll as nicely on carpeted or rough surfaces, but you can pull them, two-wheeled style. The 4-wheelers are also more prone to breakage (particularly in the baggage handling areas). But I haven't looked back from the 4-wheeled bag.


On our last long trip, one of our companions carried a large duffel bag over his shoulder, along with a backpack. The advantage to the duffel is that it is soft-sided and you can pack a lot of stuff in it. But that creates a disadvantage in that you may be tempted to overpack. That equals more weight. And, watching him carry it on some of our longer walks, I think he regretted it. We were talking about it recently and he said, unequivocally, that the next time we travel, he will have a wheeled bag.

Hard Side or Soft Side? For years, for suitcases there were really only hard side. I still remember my parents' Samsonite ivory colored suitcase set (4 cases in total, I believe), with the hard sides and the snaps for opening and closing. No wheels. I am not sure when soft-sided luggage began to come around and eventually overtake hard-sided luggage in popularity. I suspect it had to do with ballistic nylon materials that would take a beating, manufacturing costs, and the greater variety of colors and styles. In any event, but the time I was married with my own family, our "set" of luggage was soft-sided. I hadn't seen hard-sided luggage for years. Then, sometime around 2015, we suddenly started to see hard-shell luggage again. Part of that has surely been the evolution of plastics and similar materials - now ultra-light, strong, and easy to mold into shapes.
This is one of those areas where it is simply going to be a matter of preference. My preference is soft-sided. I have seen too many hard-shell cases that are scuffed, scratched, dented (sometimes severely) and even broken. While they perhaps afford some mechanical protection to items inside, that same rigid construction generally means limiting how much can be packed inside. In my case, I don't often pack breakable stuff (at least not in a checked back). If it is something I am concerned about, I have had very good success wrapping some clothing item around the item in question. In my view a good quality, ballistic material, soft-sided piece works better. It packs more flexibly, it wears better, and it packs into a car or other area (think bins for carry-on) more readily. But that is my personal bias.

Quality? I believe quality does matter. My wife and I have a philosophical difference on luggage. She is from the school that you can buy cheap luggage and replace it and since all luggage will wear out, you are going to have to replace it anyway. I buy higher quality luggage and expect it to last (I have replaced all 4 wheels on two of her bags - it involves some tools and shop skills, and I am not sure a lot of people would be capable of doing it). And even though you can replace it, it is a royal "PIA" when it breaks down in the middle of a trip.

My usual luggage brand has been Travelpro, but I am not "married" to that brand. I know Hartmann, Briggs & Riley, Tumi, Away and Rimowa, all make very good quality bags (I am sure there are others I have missed). But they are 2-3 time more expensive, and I have not been convinced they are enough "better" than the Travelpro to justify the added expense. I recently found a bag by another company (Swiss Army) that looked like it might be that "perfect" bag I have been seeking (the case size was slightly larger than my Travelpro carry-on and most competitors too). Unfortunately, upon reading the reviews, it turns out that while the bag is nice, the retracting handle and the wheels are just not durable (I might have actually taken a flier if it were just the wheels, knowing I can replace them. But the retractable handle being a problem is a non-starter). If you are planning to buy luggage, do your research. Read the reviews. And remember, it may just be cheaper to spend a bit more money once than to buy 2 or 3 timesThe last thing you want to have to deal with is a broken wheel or broken handle in the middle of a trip!


I HOPE I have shared some nuggets of wisdom here.

Sunday, December 18, 2022

Caribbean - 2015

Celebrity Reflection - San Juan - 2015
FOR A time, "winter" Caribbean Cruises became an annual event for us. The 2015 cruise was again with our group from the 2014 Celebrity Summit Cruise - but the group had diminished. As always, events of life sometimes conspire to change plans. Even though - as we left San Juan - in February 2014, we all planned to re-do the next year, it didn't work out. Two of the couples had other commitments. But the other 3 couples (we like to think of ourselves as the "fun core" 😁 ) signed up and did it again.
San Juan - 2015

FOR 2015, we cruised on the (maybe slightly upscale) Celebrity Reflection. It was Dejavu for my wife and me, as the Reflection was our very first ever Celebrity Cruise in 2013. As before, we really liked the Reflection (a good thing because we have since sailed on her 2 more times - in Europe). You may remember from my Celebrity blog post here, that The Reflection was the 5th (and last) and largest of the Solstice Class ships (now the middle class between Millenium, Solstice and Edge classes). With a capacity of just over 3,000 passengers, the Reflection still remains one of the largest in the Celebrity Fleet. Celebrity has 3 primary classes of ship: Millenium, Solstice and Edge. Though the Millenium class ships are the smallest and oldest (with passenger capacities of just over 2,000), they are in the process of being "re-fitted" one at a time. These ships still provide a nice, if not intimate cruise experience and we would not hesitate to cruise on any of them. But we mostly have cruised on Solstice - and lately - Edge class ships. Indeed, as far as we are concerned, you really cannot go wrong on any Celebrity ship.

With a capacity of just over 3,000 passengers, the Reflection still remains one of the largest in the Celebrity Fleet

THE CRUISE this time was slightly shorter (7-days), hitting only places we had become somewhat familiar with. But we were able to put a new "spin" on all three of our stops. Sadly, while we didn't know at the time, this would also be our last Caribbean Cruise for several years - finally making it back again in 2022. And I am pleased to report, we have one booked again for February 2023! 

San Juan Back Streets - 2015

LEAVING FROM Ft. Lauderdale Cruise Terminal this time meant a couple of different approaches to the cruise. Our first day was an "at sea" day, as it takes a full day to cruise from Florida down through the Straits of Florida to Puerto Rico. Once again, San Juan, Puerto Rico would be our first stop. But this time, we ported in the Old San Juan Harbor, right in the middle of things. We arrived in the afternoon, and though we didn't leave port until later in the evening, it still made the day seem short. This one was destined to be a "beach and bar" cruise. We walked up to the Castillo San Crisobal and spent a couple hours there. Then we walked back down into town and did a mini-bar crawl on some of the back streets in old San Juan. There may have been a flight or two of beer involved. And I had to chat with one of the bartenders and taste some real, quality Puerto Rican Rum (nope - not Barcardi). 😏

Sen'or Frogs - A "Caribbean Icon" - San Juan 2015

BECAUSE WE departed later, I was able to go back off the ship for a short time after dinner and do some night shooting. Looking back at my archive, I probably made less photos on this trip than any other cruise. But night shooting is a rare opportunity, because we are usually at sea at that time. I mainly wanted to get a shot of our ship lighted up, so I didn't have to venture far. As you can see from the above picture, I was also able to make a night shot of one of San Juan's most famous icons (well maybe the entire Caribbean). 😈


Ferry From Red Hook, St. Thomas to St. Johns - 2015

ON THE following day, we made port fairly early in St. Thomas, USVI. In 2014, we had visited St. Croix, USVI for our first stop, and finished in St. Thomas. The main cruise port in St. Thomas is at the USVI capital: Charlotte Amalie. In the 2014 blog, I opined that St. Thomas seemed touristy, crowded, and kind of dirty to me. I am really not trying to "dis" St. Thomas - or even Charlotte Amalie. We have had some fun there and I encourage exploration of both the town and other parts of the island and come to your own conclusions. But after two visits and not having changed that opinion, it was time to "change it up." Our cursory research had told us that it was an easy day trip to nearby St. John USVI. Once ashore, the folks as the cruise port told us our easiest and shortest trip over was to take the ferry from nearby Red Hook, just 5 miles from Charlotte Amalie. You can see from the map that there is a ferry route directly from the cruise port, but it looks to be a much longer ride. Instead, we took a 10-minute cab-ride to Red Hook, bought our ferry tickets, and took the short, 15-minute ride over to St. John. The cab ride over to Red Hook was also very interesting. It is an area that might be worth exploring on another trip.


Cruz Bay - St. John's USVI - 2015

THE IMAGE here kind of makes St. John look like all the other Caribbean ports. But it's really not. In fact, although there are a handful of large, fairly high-end resort/hotel facilities there, most of it (over 60% is protected land) is actually the uninhabited, relatively unspoiled Virgin Islands National Park. It is a destination for longer term visits. More than a day trip. But for us, the day trip was what we could do.

Caneel Bay - St. John, USVI - 2015

THE BEACHES on the northwest part of the island are well-known and spectacular. Many have probably heard of Trunk Bay, Honeymoon Beach, Maho Bay and Hawksnest. On the windward side of the island, they can also be very rough, and are at times closed. One of our group had heard of a lesser-known, small beach, that was adjacent to a private resort: Caneel Bay. From the port area of St. John, we found a golf cart transport to Caneel Bay. From the parking lot of the resort, we followed a small trail down to one of the nicest beaches I have ever been to. But quite small and intimate. There was a nice, sandy area just to the left of the image above. Visitors here are advised to stay down in that part of the beach. I have heard stories of swimmers getting into the area in the image above and getting in trouble. It can be very dangerous with undertow and waves crashing onto inhospitable rocks.

Caneel Bay - St. John, USVI - 2015

BUT THE sandy area is gorgeous, and the water is clear and warm. I have the image here on my website gallery for stock photography, hoping someday some advertiser will see it and want to use it for a brochure or online site, selling the virtues of the Caribbean. 😀

St. John, USVI - 2015

IF YOU have read this (and/or the 2014 account), it will not come as a shock to you that after spending some time on this beach - and time in the beautiful and warm water (this is one of the few times I actually had swim wear with me), we took the trolley back to the port area and found - of all places - a local bar! 😁

Sint Maarten - 2015

OUR LAST port for this cruise was another familiar stop - St. Martin. I often describe the islands of the Caribbean - at least as they relate to tourists and tourism - as kind of homogenous. They are all warm, mostly sunny and beautiful. The water is turquoise, clear and warm. The local populace (for the most part) - at least those that interact with the visiting public, put out that "don't worry, be happy" vibe. To be sure, each island has its own proud history. But even there, there is a certain amount of "sameness." Mostly originally settled by the same ancestry (Arawak, Taino, Carib) and taken over (and in most cases, exploited) by one European country or another (and in a couple significant cases, the U.S.), populated by the African slave trade in the 17th - 19th centuries, and having turned largely to tourism as a major source of livelihood. We still try to do some cultural experiences, but often find ourselves walking around on shore (usually not venturing far from the very commercialized cruise port areas), maybe sampling a local beer, and then returning to the ship.

Sint Maarten - 2015

IF I had to pick a favorite Caribbean Island (so far), it would be St. Maarten/St. Martin. Perhaps the most diverse and interesting of the islands in the Lesser Antilles chain, St. Maarten is split roughly in half, mostly north and south; a result of the Treaty of Concordia in 1648, between the French (the north side of the island - known as Saint Martin) and the Dutch (the south side - known as Sint Maarten). It is the one Caribbean Island that I personally have an interest in maybe spending a full week on someday. It is well-developed, and the Dutch side has one of the busiest airports offshore in the Caribbean - Princess Juliana Airport, as well as a large casino, many restaurants, shops, beaches and some very nice beach resorts. Sadly, like many of these island "paradises," there is a very substantial poor population, mixed in the wealthy (mostly foreign or expatriate).

Sint Maarten - 2015

ON PREVIOUS stops here we have walked the downtown area of Phillipsburg and toured the French and Dutch side of the island. We have sat at the bar next to Princess Juliana Airport and watched the jets take off and land virtually within arm's-reach. This time was different. I mentioned at the outset that this was more of a beach and bar cruise vacation. Our sole destination on this day in St. Maarten was the beach. After a short water-taxi ride from the cruise port, we rented chairs and umbrellas, at Great Bay Beach, and made ourselves comfortable with a bucket of beer. Behind us was a boardwalk, with many beach-themed restaurants, bars and shops. Eventually, we would make our way up there to have lunch, some shade, and to take refuge from a hard "summer" thunderstorm.

Celebrity Reflection - 2015

ON BOARD the Reflection, life was pretty good, too. On at sea days, it seems like there is always some "organized" afternoon activities around the pool - the central outdoor area on the Reflection. I don't participate, but occasionally "people-watch" and take photos. I also had a chance to watch the refueling operations early one morning from our balcony.

Refueling Celebrity Reflection - Caribbean - 2015

THERE ARE always some stories on these cruises. We were still in the "set table" mode in 2015. On our first night in the dining room, we were escorted to our table, which looked like it was probably set up as a 10-person table. As we sat down, we were kind of laughing at how we would probably need to use our phones to converse. Obviously, we asked to be moved to a smaller table. Thinking they would find us one for the next night, we were a bit surprised when they had us stand up and a crew came out, removed the tablecloth to reveal a round piece of unfinished plywood. They took it away and underneath it was a perfect 6-top sized table! 😅


Our 2015 "Crew" - Celebrity Reflection

THOSE WHO regularly cruise know the "ins and outs" of the dining room menus. On Celebrity (and Princess), there is usually a menu that changes daily. Sometimes it is bound to the places the ship is in. Other times, just based on variety. There is also usually a "regular" menu that is offered every night in case you don't find something you like on the specific night's menu. Usually it has fish, chicken and beef. Appetizers and sides are separate. You can mix and match and double up in virtually any combination. Two of us really enjoy the escargot, and we each ordered it every evening, no matter what else we had and what else was offered. After the meal, there is a dessert menu with a similar theme. One of the guys ordered blueberry pie every night, beginning the first night. Except that there was no blueberry pie on the menu. The waiters weren't even sure they had any blueberries. He kept at it - their own "private joke." Well, the joke turned out to be on him. On our next to last night, after dinner over and before they brought us the dessert menu, the waiters ceremoniously brought out a full blueberry pie and set it down on the table in front of Bob! Lots of laughs. And pretty good pie. 😋

THIS CRUISE was probably what most of us from the cold north country dream about in February. Warm, sunny weather. Cold beer (or whatever might be your choice). Beaches, tourist shops, colorful Caribbean landscapes, and relaxation. What could be better? A myriad of things, personal commitments, illness, and eventually a world-wide pandemic, would conspire against this group winter cruising in the future. We would travel together other places and times, and always reminisce about the cruises. I hope we are able to pull another one together one of these days soon. We would not cruise in the Caribbean again until February 2022.

Sunday, December 11, 2022

The Caribbean; A short History

 


U
H HUH! When was the last time I did anything short? 😇

A few posts back, I noted that it seemed like most cruise blogs seem to have a cast toward the Caribbean. Perhaps rightfully so. There are an awful lot of cruises there and an awful lot of cruise ship companies that offer cruises there. Traditionally, I think people (at least here in the U.S.) have thought of cruises as a warm weather vacation and reprieve from our sometimes-harsh winters. Caribbean cruising has expanded over the past few years. More and more Islands are now becoming cruise stops. We have made several cruises to and continue to cruise in the Caribbean ourselves. And as I describe these cruises, I often wonder a bit about the history of this pretty captivating part of our world.

"THE CARIBBEAN," a/k/a "The West Indies," derives its name - unsurprisingly -from the Carib native tribes that once populated this area of the world. Each time I do a "wiki" search of one of our ports of call, there is always a very brief mention of the former "indigenous" inhabitants. But never any depth. The current population of the Caribbean (we will attempt to define it better below) is about 41 million. That, presumably, is residents and doesn't include the substantial number of annual visitors. Different sources range that figure to between 25 and 35 million international visitors!

CONVENTIONAL "CARIBBEAN history" usually starts with something like, "when the Europeans arrived . . .  ." Who doesn't remember the (inaccurate and perhaps even revisionist) history of Sir Christopher Columbus' "discovery of America? As a very young person, I grew up thinking that meant he sailed into port somewhere in the U.S. and planted the Spanish Flag, claiming what we now know as "The United States of America" as Spanish territory. He didn't do that at all. 

BUT WHAT Columbus did "discover" (at least as far as Europe was concerned) was what we might call "the Americas" He was probably the most famous - and maybe first - explorer from Europe to do so. His first landing was in the Bahamas, which actually is neither the "New World" (U.S.), or the Caribbean (more on that later). The goal of Columbus' voyages was to find and confirm a presumed "shortcut" to the East Indies (essentially, Asia) in an effort to find an alternative to the sometimes treacherous "Spice Route." It wasn't until a year later, in 1493, on a second voyage to "the new world," that he made landfall in the actual Caribbean: St. Croix, (now part of the U.S.V.I.). He was a determined explorer, if nothing else. In 1494, he made landfall on what is now Jamaica. None of them were the East Indies. Ironically, the region he sailed to multiple times is referred to as "the West Indies."

SHORTLY AFTER Columbus' "discovery," other explorers and other European nations began to explore the area, including Portugal and France, and eventually England, as their navies and sailing fleets grew - partly as a result of the so-called "Age of Exploration," and partly because of the near-constant warfare and struggle for control of important waterways ensued between them. Eventually, the industrious and enterprising Dutch and even later, the Danish joined in. The Spanish did get there first and did declare the entire Caribbean Region to be Spanish territory. But they mostly concentrated on some of the major spots at first (Mexico, Cuba, Puerto Rico and "Hispaniola" - now Haiti and Dominican Republic). That left the other numerous islands up for grabs for the others. And they all got busy claiming, colonizing, and fighting each other over them.
The Caribbean

I THINK some geography would be helpful right about now. The "Caribbean" as we know it today, is formed by lands surrounding the Caribbean Sea. To the west and south are the mainland of Central and South America (Mexico, Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Venezuela). To the north and east are the island archipelago of "The Antilles." The larger islands to the west (Cuba, Haiti, Dominican Republic, Jamaica and Puerto Rico are known as "The Greater Antilles." The numerous and mostly much smaller islands to the east are known as "The Lesser Antilles." Because Columbus was seeking (and may have believed he found) Asia and "The East Indies," the whole area above is also often referred to as "The West Indies." While as cruisers, we think of The Bahamas and Turks and Caicos as "The Caribbean," technically, they are not. Both are in the Atlantic (not in the Caribbean Sea). Because they continue to be important cruise points, I think we can continue to include them in our broad definition here, of "The Caribbean."



HISTORIANS BELIEVE that the islands were probably formed in a couple different ways. The Greater Antilles, it is believed, was most likely at one time connected to the mainland by land bridge. It is likely that much of the early migration of people were over that land bridge. In contrast, it is thought that most of the Lesser Antilles were most likely volcanic. Early inhabitants there most likely came by water. It is possible that Trinidad, the closest to the South American Peninsula was also attached by land bridge at one time.

BUT WHO was there before the Europeans arrived? The history of the inhabitants of the Caribbean is unclear. Most of what we know comes during and after the period of "discovery" which we will call, for convenience, the "Columbian" period.

SOMEWHAT SKETCHY history and archeology suggests that humans began to inhabit this region shortly after the Ice Age, and as long ago as 9000 B.C. Historians believe that Trinidad was probably the first inhabited Caribbean Island and was probably attached to the mainland by land bridge. I find it fascinating that historians attribute the eventual rising seas and disconnect of these now-islands to Climate Change. In 9000 B.C.!😐

REFERRED TO (perhaps euphemistically) as "Amerindians" the most probable early inhabitants were of Arawak descent and probably originated somewhere in the Amazon Valley, migrated up into Columbia and Venezuela, and then to the Antilles.

I find it fascinating that historians attribute the eventual rising seas and disconnect of these now-islands to Climate Change. In 9000 B.C.!

EVENTUALLY, THE Arawak origin branched to Taino, and perhaps, Carib. They all seemed to have similar cultures and the Taino, who seem to have emerged as the earliest settlers of the Antilles, shared the Arawak-based language (though the Caribs had their own, Kalinago language). Archeologists have found evidence on both the main peninsula and the islands in the form of elaborate pottery, ringed villages, raised fields, and large mounds, including evidence that they modified the soil using various techniques such as adding charcoal to transform it into black earth. According to historians, these are all indicators of a complex culture. The Taino appears to have been a particularly Antilles-based people. 

TO THIS world and culture, the Europeans arrived in the late part of the 15th century. And changed everything. This should not come as a surprise - at least not for any student of history. This was during what was known in Europe as "The Age of Discovery" (exploration), and dominant European nations (particularly those with robust naval and shipping capacity), began to explore - and conquer - the world. Spain, Portugal, France and England were continuously engaged in struggles for control both at home in Europe and around the world (including frequent hostilities in the Caribbean. Later, the Dutch and Danish would join the fray. Colonization (and exploitation) of many of these places ensued, including the Caribbean, the western Americas, and Mexico. This pattern continued for centuries. By the 17th Century, a new player, the United States, became involved.

AT FIRST, the Europeans discovered gold and other minerals in the Caribbean. They set up colonies, mined gold, traded (though often unscrupulously) with the native inhabitants, and eventually overcame them by force. Over time, the Europeans realized the potential in the rich soils and temperate climate for agriculture. The Caribbean was particularly suited to the cultivation of sugar cane and became at one time the world's largest producer and supplier of sugar and molasses. Sugar was a labor-intensive crop, and they began to import African Slaves into the region. This created an entirely new tension, which continued until well after the United Kingdon abolished slavery in 1833. It was not until 1865 that the U.S. finally passed the 13th Constitutional Amendment officially abolishing slavery in the U.S.

St. Kitts - Where some of the Residents live

THE BLACK slave culture produced a number of slave-rebellions throughout the Caribbean Region over the years. Perhaps the most famous was in Haiti and happened earlier - but is probably demonstrative of the atmosphere at the time. In 1791, a Haitian slave "uprising" ultimately became "The Haitian Revolution," (no doubt heartened by the U.S. Revolution just a few years early). The revolutionaries ultimately overthrew the French Colonial government and in 1804, Haiti gained its independence. Haiti still holds the distinction of being the world's first Black republic and was only the second (following the U.S.) independent republic in the western hemisphere.

A NUMBER of other Caribbean states gained independence in the years to follow. In 1821, Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua and Costa Rica, all on the main South American Peninsula, gained their independence. In the Greater Antilles, both Cuba and Puerto Rico remained under Spanish control until 1898, following the Spanish American War. The victory by the U.S. in that war established the U.S. as the major power in South and Central America. In the 1898 Treat of Paris, the U.S. was granted control over Puerto Rico, and given temporary control and supervision over Cuba. Puerto Rico remains a territory of the United States. As a condition to full and final withdrawal of American troops from Cuba, the new Cuban nation signed another treaty, which essentially gave the U.S. "police-powers" over Cuba, agreeing that the U.S. could intervene militarily if they deemed it necessary. As later history would demonstrate, the tensions between the U.S. and Cuba grew and still exist to this day. Wouldn't it be nice if we could find a way to relax those tensions and once-again, allow cruise ship stops in Cuba?

TODAY, ONLY a handful of Caribbean territories remain under "colonial" control. Between 1958 and 1962 most of the territories who had not gained independence were controlled by the British, who years ago had established Naval Superiority in Europe. In 1962, Jamaica, Trinidad and Tobago became independent. In ensuing years Barbados (1966), Bahamas (1973), Grenada (1974), Dominica (1978), St. Lucia and St. Vincent (1979), Antigua (1981), and St. Kitts and Nevis (a federation - 1983) all gained their independence. Guadeloupe and Martinique remain French Colonies. St. Maarten and St. Bart's are "collectives" of France. The British continue to have colonial control over Anguilla, Bermuda, The British Virgin Islands (BVI), the Cayman Islands, Montserrat, and Turks and Caicos. And of course, the U.S. retains control over Puerto Rico, and the U.S. Virgin Islands (St. Thomas, St. John's, St. Croix and some very small islands).

Abandoned Sugar Plantation - St. Kitts

EVENTUALLY, THE sugar industry began to decline. There were a number of reasons for the decline, but in the end, the Caribbean ceased to be the world's largest producer. Sugar has remained, however an important crop. Today, other important crops include fruit (especially bananas), spices, and tobacco. Oil refining has also been an up and down component in the Caribbean economy. For a time, offshore banking was also a significant Caribbean industry. For wealthy residents of the U.S. these islands - once they became independently sovereign, were very convenient places for offshore holdings. That, too, has declined more recently, particularly in light the U.S. Patriot Act. Bringing us back to where we started. Tourism. It has become one of, if not the most important industry in the Caribbean.

Today, the Caribbean Islands are highly dependent on tourism

HIGHLY DEPENDENT on tourism, the Caribbean today, by my observation, the divide between wealth and the less economically fortunate is pretty obvious if you travel around these islands. In most instances, highly dependent on tourism, what we as visitors and tourist see is often what some want us to see. Our visions of the Caribbean - colorful, sandy beaches, restaurants and bars (think Sen'or Frog), and clean modern facilities - are usually present at the cruise ports and major tourist areas. But having done some touring on a couple of the island-interiors, I have seen some very poor, and other less economically fortunate residents and areas. It puts my own good fortune for the things I have and the place I live in a very different light.

St. Kits - Away from the Tourist Areas

I FOUND researching and writing this fascinating. It helps me put my Caribbean Cruise adventures into a better historical perspective. I will continue to research the individual destinations as we visit them, but this was a useful exercise for me, and I hope, an interesting piece for the readers here.