Sunday, April 20, 2025

Juneau

Juneau, Alaska (from Mt. Roberts)
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

TYPICAL OF some shorter cruises, this one began and ended with some "at sea" days. In the middle, there are often cruise stops that are close enough together that the ship can leave port by late afternoon/early evening and arrive at the next one early the next morning. That is how our Inside Passage cruise worked. We left Vancouver in the late afternoon and cruised for a couple nights before our arrival at Ketchikan. That made at least one "at sea" day immediately after departing Vancouver. Then we made stops in Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway on consecutive days. Those were the land-based "stops" we made on the cruise.

Mendenhall Glacier - Juneau, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

FOLLOWING OUR eventful day in Ketchikan, we arrived at Juneau early the next morning. Once again, we had pre-arranged off-ship excursions.Plural, because we split up. We had found a "photography" excursion for me and the others went on a "whale-watching" excursion.

Auke Bay - Juneau, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

MY PHOTOGRAPHY excursion included a stop at the famous Mendenhall Glacier right outside of Juneau, a short hike through a nature area, and then whale watching. Ironically, I later learned, the rest of the group had a much better experience on their "whale watching" trip. Like us, they made a stop at the Mendenhall Glacier before proceeding on up to the primary whale excursion location in Juneau: Auke Bay. Our whale excursion was very close to a bust by any standards (it is like fishing, of course - there are no guarantees). I have one (not very good) distant shot of the "tale up" breach. A few unremarkable shots (you can see them here) and not really anything else. Our other group saw a few nice breaches, but nobody caught them on camera.😏

Early morning sun on The Gastineau Channel - Juneau, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

JUNEAU IS on the "mainland" west coast of continental Alaska. Along the passage, there is very little human habitation, and where it is, there is generally only a very narrow "rivieria" for building. Alaska's capitol city is situated on the Gastineau Channel; a narrow channel which separates Juneau and the mainland from Douglas Island, to the west of Juneau on the other side of the Gastineau Channel. You can see though, from my shot from our cruise ship bow, that the approach is pretty dramatic at times. Across the channel, Douglas Island is largely uninhabited, with some recreational trails and a small ski area.

"Downtown" Juneau, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved

LIKE MANY of Alaska's towns, Juneau can only be reached by boat or by small plane (including by seaplane). There are roads in the immediate area, but they don't really lead to anywhere other than the city and its outskirts. The primary road on the Juneau side goes from just 6 miles south of town (apparently primarily to serve the cruise terminal) to about 12 miles north of town, to Auke Bay. You pass Mendenhall on the east on your way up to Auke Bay. So what about all those cars? We learned that to have a car in Juneau, you must either purchase one at one of the couple auto dealerships in Juneau, or bring it over by ferry. There was a surprising amount of automobile traffic, given this tiny road network.

Auke Bay Harbor - Juneau, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved
ONCE OUR excursions were complete, we took the gondola up to the top of Mt. Roberts, and did a short hike along a trail with high up and pretty impressive views of the city and the channel below us - including a "birds-eye" view of our docked cruise ship. We ate lunch at the restaurant at the top of the tram, before returning to walk around Juneau's downtown area briefly. Soon enough, it was time once again, to return to our cruise ship for our sail-away from Juneau, and on to our next destination: Skagway.

Diamond Princess - Juneau, Alaska
Copyright Andy Richards 2010 - All Rights Reserved


Sunday, April 13, 2025

"Celebrity Beyond" - Our Newest Cruise Ship Experience

Celebrity Beyond - St. John's Antigua
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

WE JUST returned from our 21st cruise; this time on Celebrity's third newest ship: The Celebrity Beyond. Beyond is also the third ship in the cruise line's newest and best of its fleet - the Edge Class. The Celebrity Edge, the first of this newest class of ships operated by Celebrity was launched in January, 2018 (with sister ship, The Celebrity Apex, following close behind in May of 2019). Edge and Apex were a so-called "cutting edge" design and are essentially the same layout. We have sailed on Apex 3 times and Edge twice (with a booked September cruise again on the Apex). From what I can see there is very little difference between the Edge and Apex; none of it substantial. The Beyond and (presumably) Ascent? Another story. A number of changes that are notable. We are slated to sail on the Ascent next February and I will do some comparisons at that time, but would bet that there are few differences between it and the Beyond.

The "legacy" Martini Bar on Celebrity Millenium and Solstice ships was kind of tucked away on the port side of Deck 4; but was nonetheless a very popular spot in the evenings
Copyright Andy Richards 

THE EDGE class was a significant departure from the more classic designs of the older but still very modern and relevant Solstice line and the even older Millenium class ships. Maintaining some very popular venues from its older ships, like the Martini Bar and Sunset Bar, their configurations were largely re-imagined. The Sunset Bar changed from a rather intimate space on the back of the ship to a sweeping bar across the back. The "lawn" areas on both sides of the sunset bar were replaced with a large seating area for both smoking and non-smoking passengers on the ship's starboard side with no public area on the port side of that deck. The Martini bar was moved from its somewhat aft position tucked away on the port side of deck 4, to become a two-story central atrium on the Edge ships. The lawn club (just forward of the Sunset bar area) was replaced on the Edge ships with a new "Rooftop" garden and the Lawn Grill replaced with the Rooftop Garden Grill. Replaceing the large lawn area is now a "park-like" labyrinth of seating (slightly reconfigured on each new "Edge" participant). New restaurants (Raw on 5, the Fine Cut Steakhouse, and the oppulently appointed Eden bar and restaurant) were added, replacing old favorites like Murano, Tuscan, and the Lawn Club Grill. Some of them (e.g., Raw on 5) have now found their way onto several of the Solstice class ships during re-fitting).

The "new" Martini Bar on the Edge and Apex
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

PERHAPS THE most significant change: the Edge class ships replaced the traditional "Grand Ballroom" main dining room approach of most mainline cruise ships with 4 smaller "themed" (Greek, Italian, French and "cosmopolitan") restaurants. This seems to fit with the trend toward "freestyle" type dining, and I suspect as newer ships come out and older ships are re-fitted, we will see more of this. It is still possible to have an assigned seating table and time. It is also possible to order anything of any of the 4 menus. We like the variety and intimacy of the smaller spaces, but I have talked with many who miss (and/or prefer) the large, "grand" dining room.

The Sunset Bar - Celebrity Reflection (Solstice Class)
Copyright Andy Richards 2013 - All Rights Reserved

TWO OTHER  changes that are notable are the re-work of The Martini Bar and The Sunset Bar on the stern of the ship. The Sunset Bar on the Solstice class ships was a major upgrade from the space on the older Millenium class ships. The partially sunken oval directly in the center of the aft-most part of deck 15, has a very intimate feel to it. Indeed, on the several times we have sailed on these ships, we have gotten to know the bartenders very well. There is nice, tiered seating facing aft on both sides. The port side is smoker - friendly (including along the "lawn" section just forward), and has become one of my all-time favorite spots on any cruise ship. The "Lawn" areas on these ships are unique and to the best of my knowledge, not present on any other cruise ships. Unfortunately, they have redesigned this going forward. I am not sure why, but I suspect maintaining a live grass lawn area aboard is a major and expensive feat. But it is a cool space. Extending forward around the engine/smokestack superstructure on both port and starboard side is a strip of "lawn" that takes up most of the space, save a walkway. Forward of the stack there is a large lawn area ("The Lawn"). The narrow sides are frequently used for bocce and ocassionally as a putting surface. The port side lawn strip is part of the smoker-friendly area.

Celebrity Reflection looking over the stern
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

THE REWORK of the entire space on the Edge and Apex (both of which we have sailed on multiple times) results in a very different look and feel. Having grown to love the Solstice design, it took some getting used to, and it has its (for me) good and bad points. First let me say I don't like the new Sunset Bar itself at all. On both the Edge and Apex, the bar now sweeps straight across the stern of the ship. There is seating behind it - but it is pretty limited (more on the Edge with a slight improvement on the Apex, but still limited). In my opinion this bar configuration gives that space a "cold" commercial feel, and lacks the "intimacy" of the Solstice class bar. There is no seating at all on the port side back here.

Sunset Bar - Celebrity Edge
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THE ADJACENT seating areas are different and have their points. Seating generous. For better or worse, all passengers must walk through the smoking area on their way to the bar. But it is open enough that it shouldn't really be a serious problem. I like that the bartender/wait staff also has to walk through the area, which means we are still seeing them frequently and interacting with them. Not quite as intimate as before, but still getting to know them and making friends. On the real negative side, As you can see from the picture below, the area is wide open. There is no shelter from wind, rain or sun (and that sun can be brutal during the afternoon in some climates). This often also results in wet cushions the morning after. But "First World Problems." We cope.😀

Sunset Bar Smoking Area - Celebrity Edge
Copyright Andy Richards 2019

ALSO NEW on the edge class was the unique "Magic Carpet," an elevator-type, cantilivered structure on the starboard side of the ships that moves up an down, depending on its current function. Most of the time it is on deck 14 and serves as one of the many bar venues. It is also used as a disembarkation point when tendering to ports. Finally, there is an occasionally offered special dinner meal in the Magic Carpet. Its bright orange color marks the Edge ships unmistakably when you see them on the water or in port.

The Magic Carpet - Celebrity Beyond
Copyright Andy Richards 2025

THE EDGE class also added another new and innovative space that takes up a substantial part of the aft section of deck 5: Eden. A somewhat integral space, Eden had its own namesake bar, a small buffet, a small entertainment stage, very nice seating around the rear of the ship, and its own smaller outside deck area that is partly smoker-friendly. I describe the furnishings as opulent. The bar has top-shelf liquor and usually a mixologist and the restaurant is almost over-the-top elegant (and, not surprisingly, is a surcharge venue - thought the bar and buffet are open to all passengers). Eden appears to have been unchanged on the Beyond and Ascent. But look for big changes on the upcoming Xcel.

The entrance to Eden - Celebrity Apex
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

AS THE third entry into the Edge class, apparently Celebrity decided it was time for some new features - primarily re-designs. The martini bar was moved to the middle of the venue instead at one end - presumably to make room for more seating in the area. The bar now is in a trapezoidal shape and interestingly the new Sunset Bar (more below) mimicks the design in terms of shape, colors and surfaces. I am not sure whether the re-design is a result of feedback or some other reason, but Celebrity is showing me a bit of indecision here. Recently looking at photos of the Xcel, the final "Edge" class ship which is scheduled to launch late this year, they appear to have once again moved the bar forward in the space at one end again.

The re-designed Martini Bar on Beyond and Ascent
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

THE SUNSET bar area on the rear of the ship is moved to nearly the center of the space and features a trapezoidal shape. It is also (newly) placed under a covered portico, protecting patrons at the bar from sun and rain. Not only is this a cool look, but it brings back some of the "intimate" feel of the legacy (Solstice) bar. It also re-opens some space for seating on the port side of the bar. This is a welcome change and I think it carries through to all 3 of the newest Edge class offerings.

Sunset Bar - Celebrity Beyond
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

THE SEATING area for the Sunset Bar remains to the rear (all the way across and around to the port side as well) and on the starboard side. The smoking area (as well as the rest of the starboard side seating) has been completely re-designed, with several narrower, tiered spaces. The result is that the smoking area is somewhat more secluded from the main bar, something that non-smokers probably appreciate. It is also "screened"  on top and plexi-glass panels to the seaside, giving relief from the harsh sun and to an extent, the wind. Overall, they are very nice, comfortable spaces. It is possible to get to and from the bar without walking through the smoking area. My only issue with that is that it means the wait staff can also do that. Our experience on this cruise was that the bartender/wait staff don't seem to frequent the area as much. That is remedied simply, by more trips to the bar for us, but it does seem to have taken away the opportunity to get to know the staff more personally.

Smoking Area - Sunset Bar - Celebrity Beyond
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

ON THE starboard side, just forward of the smoking areas there are now two small plunge pools at the edge of the ship (I understand that on the Ascent, they have added two more on the port side).

Plunge Pool - Celebrity Beyond
Copyright Andy Richards 2025

THE BEYOND and Ascent have added an additional deck (17), creating more space for seating above (but with a view of) the pool, and creating a new outside Bar on a formerly unavailable space on deck 16. The "new" Mast Bar on the Beyond is one deck above 15, accessed by a single flight of stairs on the starboard side, just back of the pool. The former Mast Bar is now referred to simply as The Pool Bar and has not moved. The new Mast Bar is small, but well stocked and tended, with a television and shady space. I found it at times to be a better alternative to the always crowded Sunset Bar, to take a quick walk, get a drink, and bring back to the smoking area. In addition, they have brought The World Class Bar (found on some Solstice ships) on board. They have some very high-end liquor as well as a master mixologist. We have fun with some of their specialty drinks and have participated in a couple of their mixology "seminars."

The Rooftop Garden on Deck 15 replaced "The Lawn" on Solstice ships and serves as a multi-purpose area including movies and occasional sports games on the TV screen and these day, the world's most popular and growing sport: Pickleball.
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

THEY HAVE also added an additional new surcharge-based restaurant: Le 
Voyage, which they boast, is designed and managed by celebrity chef Daniel Boloud. I have mixed feelings about these so-called "specialty" restaurants. They are not a new concept. We dined in Princess' "Sabatini" Italian restaurant on our first ever cruise aboard the Diamond Princess in Alaska. In that case, I have to say that food was excellent and a cut above the main dining room with which we were already duly impressed. We have also dined in several of the specialty restaurants on Celebrity ships, including Eden, The Fine Cut Steakhouse, and Raw on 5, as well as similar venues on both Holland America and Oceania (on Oceania's so-called "luxury" ships, all the restaurants are included in your fare - so no surcharge). We have had somewhat mixed results. On Oceania, we dined in both offered extra restaurants and they were the two least memorable meals aboard. The food in the main dining room was nothing short of excellent. Probably the best food we have had on any cruise. On Holland America, we again did both of their offered specialty restaurants. They were underwhelming. Rather than their own separate venue, they were in a cordoned-off section of the buffet. The food was pedestrian (which we found indeed to be the case in the main dining room most nights also - though the buffet food was comparably decent). On Celebrity, we have found the food in the specialty restaurants to be very good. Better than the MDR.

Are they "better" enough to justify the rather stiff surcharges?

BUT ARE they "better" enough to justify the rather stiff surcharges? We generally think the food is good enough in the included restaurants that you can easily have a great cruise and great food without any of the specialty restaurants. When we have partaken, it has usually been in conjunction with non-refundable on-board credits, special deals, or both. The two on HAL were "comped" as part of our particular package. We have taken advantage of first night deals with Fine Cut. Sometimes we are part of a group or invited to join one and will splurge on those occasions. Raw on 5 is an ala carte surcharge menu and we have felt the prices to be well worth the ability to get food not otherwise available on the ship (like sushi). But at this point we are drawing the line at Le Voyage. The per passenger surcharge is $120! Nope. My overall concern is that because of the clearly preferable profit margins from these ventures, cruise lines are moving more and more toward this model, and pushing cruisers in that direction whenever possible. I worry that in the end, the formerly great food and experience in the ships' standard, included venues may well suffer.

Celebrity Beyond - Caribbean 2025
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

WE WILL sail on the Ascent in February, 2026. In November of 2025, Celebrity will launching what is supposed to be the final member of the Edge class: The Xcel. I would expect it to be different in a number of ways from the Beyond and Ascent. As I learn, I will keep you posted.