I Am A Celebrity!: 2026

Sunday, October 18, 2026

Dipping a Toe in the Water - 2021

Princess Cruises
Copyright Andy Richards 2013 - All Rights Reserved

WHEN THINGS shut down in late 2020, we had no idea what was in store for us. Or the rest of the world. We had had flu, ebola, West Nile, and numerous other "outbreaks," and I think many of us thought this was just another one of those. Very bad, but addressable. By now, everyone knows that was not the case.

It was not until October, 2021 that we were able to find a cruise that fit our thinking

AT THAT time, we had a couple future cruises booked - mostly in Europe. The were eventually cancelled, as were a series of "replacement" cruises we booked. It was not until October, 2021 that we were able to find a cruise that fit our thinking. For that cruise, we went back to Princess and the sister ship of the Royal Princess (our first ever cruise in Europe); The Regal Princess.

IN MANY ways, it was a bit of a letdown. The itinerary was not an ideal one for us (and it got worse as 2 of the 3 main ports decided it was still too soon to allow cruise ships - necessitating "pivots" in both cases). Having been thoroughly indoctrinated to Celebrity by now, we found the food to be mediocre and the dining experience likewise. And, with Covid-19 Protocols still in place, the overall experience was not what we were accustomed to.

AS NOTED in the previous post, getting to Europe (and back home) and getting on the ship were complications we had never previously had (and thankfully no longer have today). Our trip to London (which was a wonderful, weeklong, pre-cruise adventure) involved testing in the U.S., and testing immediately upon landing at LHR airport. Then we were tested again by Princess before boarding the ship, and once more at the end of the cruise, before shuttling to the airport. These were all so-called "rapid" test which gave results within a very short period. Princess handled their part of the testing admirably. They were very organized, and we were quickly moved through the testing area and then sat in a waiting area until cleared to board. It took us less than an hour and the subsequent boarding was quick and well-organized.

Princess' Medallion "Key Card"

BUT WE were cruising again! And we were optimistic that things would improve along with the rest of the world. It was going to take some time. And there were a couple things we actually really liked on the Princess ship. One of them was Princess (now on all their ships, I believe) the rollout of their "Medallion" program. The medallion replaces the traditional "seapass" card. It is very similar to an Apple airtag and transmits electronically everywhere aboard the ship. It is your room key and boarding pass. With a "smartpone" app, it also allows you to "connect" to others (it was great for my wife and me to be able to know where to find each other on board), and to order food and drink anywhere on board and have it delivered! While some have some trepidation about it, I loved it and wish other lines would adopt the technology (to the best of my knowledge, only Disney has done so). Princess offers a wristband and or waist clip (I bought the latter and found it great for my purposes).

PRINCESS IS said to be the first cruise line to offer "anytime" dining, but for numerous reasons, we had not embraced that concept fully yet and on this cruise had an assigned table. In our view, the layout of the MDR on the Regal Princess wasn't ideal. We were placed away from the center of the dining room, up on a raised area and back in a kind of corner. There were two rectangular tables in that corner, seating 4 couples altogether. We never saw one couple. The second couple at the adjoining table were only there for one night. I can only surmise that they asked to be moved (we probably should have, too). Our table mates were a perfectly nice couple from New Zealand. They were there punctually every night and we did have nice conversation with them. But it was essentially "private" dining with the 4 of us for the entire cruise. We didn't feel comfortable asking to be moved, as we thought it would be insulting to the couple. Along with mediocre food offerings, it was not our best outing. But at the same time, it was perfectly nice company. I think, though, that it was the last time we ever had assigned time and seating.

Le Verdun-sur-Mer, France (from the deck of the Regal Princess Cruise Ship)
Copyright Andy Richards 2021 - All Rights Reserved

WE WERE Originally scheduled to stop at The Isle of Guernsey, LaRochelle, France, and Bilbao and "A Coruna, Spain. Shortly before the cruise, we were informed of a change of itinerary. Guernsey was still not allowing cruise ships and that stop was dropped entirely (substitution a sea day). The fact that it is a tender port probably added to the issues involving on shore Covid-19 protocol. Either way, a disappointment.

Shops - Soulac-sur-Mer, France
Copyright Andy Richards 2021 - All Rights Reserved

FOR REASONS never explained, La Rochelle was changed to Le Verdon-sur-Mer ("the port for Bordeaux"). Current searches online suggest that at the time the changing and inconsistent Covid-19 protocols exercised by different French municipalities made La Rochelle problematic. The do not specifically say that the port would have been impossible. They also suggest that Le Verdon fit better with Princess sailing times and fuel effeciency. Not something a passenger really wants to hear about a promised port. The problem, in our view, was the La Rochelle is a sizeable community and at the time offered some things to do. Le Verdon? Not so much. While it might be touted as "the port for Bordeaux," it was a rather long train ride to Bordeax (aligning with my oft-repeated complaint that cruise lines are sometimes misleading with their port descriptions). The port itself is very industrial, with no walking and no place really to go that is nearby. Instead, Princess offered a shuttle to the nearby beach town of Soulac-sur-Mer. A pretty little town. Also a tiny little town. The beaches were impressive, but this was not beach weather and they were desolate at that time. The town was little more than about 2 blocks of typical touristy shops and the like. Nice, but quite a letdown over anticipated La Rochelle.

A 'Coruna, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2021 - All Rights Reserved

THE REMAINING stops - for us - were just ok. La Coruna was just kind of your "everytown." To take a few days to stay and get a feel for a place like this might be rewarding. We got off the ship, got a cappuchino and sat at a cafe near the port, walked a bit, and re-boarded the ship. In Bilbao, we did pretty much the same. I also searched out a cigar shop where, ironically, the cuban cigar the proprietor talked me into buying was terrible (not properly humidored), and the 3-pack of "American" (you have to imagine the derogatory tone in which the proprietor described the "mere" American cigars) cigars were actually decent. But I digress. 😁.

A 'Coruna, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2021 - All Rights Reserved

IN FAIRNESS, we did not really do our "homework" for this cruise. Denominated as a "sampler cruise" by Princess, it was a bit last minute for us and we did not do our customary planning and excursion bookings. We just wanted to get out on a ship and get back in the swing of things. Bilbao, we know now, has a lot to do and at the very least we probably should have visited the Guggenheim Museum. We finally did do that, just recently, in 2026 on a Gate 1 Travel stop in Bilbao. It is a pretty spectacular work of art (in my opinion, it is mainly the very modern architecture - both inside and out - that "steals the show").

Bilbao, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2021 - All Rights Reserved

IN THE end, it was still a fun experience. The smoking area on the Regal is on the back, much like the Celebrity Solstice class ships, but not as well thought out. It was often windy, and we felt a little like we were shoved into a corner. But that didn't stop me from having a few cigars, and make some new acquaintences. By January (2022), we would be back on board our familiar Celebrity Reflection; this time back in the Caribbean.

Sunday, September 27, 2026

Back On Board - Celebrity Reflection - 2022

Back Cruising on Celebrity - Western Caribbean - 2022

YOU HAVE no doubt heard the expression: "never say never." The so-called "Western Caribbean" seemed to be one of those times. To me there is a lot of "sameness" when cruising in the Caribbean. You have to see out the unique aspects for shore visits. For us, it is really all about the ship, the company, and the normally great weather. And, on the positive side, we were back cruising - and it looked like "out of the woods." No more masking (not even employees). We were once again allowed to approach bars and order our own drinks. And we were back aboard our favorite Celebrity Cruises - on my own all-time favorite ship: The Celebrity Reflection. This would be our 5th trip on her (and I hope to have yet more chances). The weather was beautiful, and my favorite spot on the ship,the smoking side of The Sunset Bar, continued to be our place to finish the days. But by the end of this one I was ready to say to the western Caribbean: "never again."

You have no doubt heard the expression: "never say never"

THE (minor) NEGATIVE was the itinerary. Again, a rather short one, designed to get us back out there, it was our first (and maybe last) so-called "Western Caribbean" cruise. We have cruised many times in the Eastern (and southeastern) Caribbean, both before and after the pandemic. There are some now very familiar places (I think we have been to St. Kitts 7 times). For us the western side was all new (actually, my wife did a short, 3-day cruise with a friend some years back) to me. Which brings me back around to the "never say never" thing.

New Cruise Port - Nassau, Bahamas (it didn't look like this when we stopped in 2022)
Copyright Andy Richards 2025 - All Rights Reserved

OUR PORTS of call were Nassau, Bahamas; Cozumel, Mexico; Belize (Belize City); and Roatan, Honduras. As happy as we were to be aboard the Reflection, the itinerary pretty much left me cold. Indeed, it prompted me to think (and I maybe said it out load once or twice) that I did care if I ever did another "Western Caribbean" cruise.

Carnival Cruise Ships - Nassau, Bahamas - 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

I HAVE been to Nassau a couple times now. I am still of the firm thinking that I don't care to go there again. Sometimes it is just on the "rotation" for some of the shorter cruises, so I acknowledge I probably will. But not if I can avoid it. Probably the largest cruise port in the world (certainly in the south - The Bahamas are not technically in "The Caribbean"), it is built for "party cruise" tourism. In 2022 it was not a commercially developed. By the fall of 2025, when we were last there, the cruise port had been completely re-built and enlarged. Still build solely for tourism and partying.

Our Celebrity Reflection moored next to Disney Fantasy - Nassau, Bahamas - 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

WE GOT off the ship and walked around the old port and then walked right back on board. I did make a few pictures, mostly of the other ships in the port. I was trying out a new M4/3 camera outfit and wanted to make some images for further evaluation. Nassau is close to our origination port in Ft. Lauderdale, making it an easy first stop before the longer sail (involving sea days) down to Cozumel on the far western shore of the Caribbean.

Nassau, Bahamas - Celebrity Reflection 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

COZUMEL IS an island just off the mainland of Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. It is directly across from the major resort area of Play del Carma, south of Cancun. Aside from the beach and crazy tourist resorts, the area is also know for some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. It is also know for good fishing. For cruisers? Unless you are going to do a diving or fishing expedition, or if you like to party or buy cheap souvenir trinkets, there really isn't any draw. Maybe that is unfair. Coming of the pandemic we were so much in a hurry to get on a cruise, we didn't do a lot of research. There are, we know, lots of great natural resources on the mainland, including some of the most magnificent Mayan Ruins. We probably should have booked an excursion to one of them. But, you see, they are over on the mainland. We docked on the Island of Cozumel.

Cozumel, Mexico Cruise Port (one of the things I have been trying to do is get an image of these somewhat uniform colorful signs in almost every Caribbean Port)
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

INSTEAD, WE just walked off the ship in the main port area. Within the port is a complex that looks pretty much like every other developed cruise port in the Caribbean. Commercial restaurants like Senior Frog and Margaritaville. Other touristy establishments and shops. We were used to that. What we weren't used to was the annoyingly persistant "hawking" of the folks on shore in this Mexican port. We made the mistake of walking outside the cruise port to see what was there. More restaurants and souvenir shops. And one particular bar proprietor who literally followed us a couple blocks down the street harranging us to come into his restaurant where he would make us a great deal! Our polite "no thank you's," and "we are just walking," fell on completely deaf ears. He was persistent to the point of making us uncomfortable. He was, in a word, rude. I couldn't wait to get away from this shore and back on board our ship! But I did buy a T-shirt. 😀

Once again, we found ourselves quickly back on board

OUR NEXT stop was Belize City, Belize. If you "Google" Belize and ask if it is "safe," you will get mixed results, but mostly that it is not really safe. There is apparently a lot of crime, including violence and gang related activity. We always like to at least get off the ship - so we can say we did more than anything. Right in the cruise port, things were just like other developed Caribbean ports, with the usual commercial establishments. Almost as soon as we exited the port, we immediately felt unsafe and re-entered the port. Once again, we found ourselves quickly back on board. I was carrying my camera and made just a couple "obligatory" images. But can you see a pattern developing here?

Cruise Port - Belize City, Belize - 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

THE FINAL port of this cruise was Honduras. When we booked, I was thinking maybe there would be a chance to visit a cigar factory somewhere as I knew Honduras to be a substantial cigar producing region. My research soon told me otherwise. Our port was actually Roatan, which is (again) an island some 40 miles to the north, from the mainland. Most of the cigar manufacturing and tobacco production is found to the western and southwestern side of the mainland, well away from the Caribbean.

Anyone who - like us - saw it only from our cruise ship deck, could be forgiven for thinking we had just docked in the proverbial "third world."

IT IS probably fair to hold me responsible for poor (or non-existent) research once again. Our cruise berth was in Coxen Hole, on the southwestern side of the island. Anyone who - like us - saw it only from our cruise ship deck, could be forgiven for thinking we had just docked in the proverbial "third world." The dock was nothing more than a dock. From what we could tell, there was really nothing on shore that resembled a cruise port as we know it. To our southwest, there were dilapidated buildings right on the shoreline with waves lapping onto and into the first floor. The buildings were build from whatever materials the owners could find. I was out on deck as we came into our dock and quickly concluded that we would not be getting off the ship today. Maybe if we had booked an excursion and someone was meeting us at the dock. But otherwise, I had visions of getting off and never returning. O.k., that is a bit of an exaggeration. But we seriously could see no reason to go ashore.

Coxen Hole Cruise Port - Roatan, Honduras - 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

THIS SITUATION was surprising to me. I would have thought there would be better accomodations when a major cruise line/ship was going to dock there. Well. I learned only later, upon coming home, that there actually was a much more "developed" cruise port, much like what we were accustomed to just a 3 miles up the south coast of the island, at Mahogany Bay. For us, the problem would be that the much more "developed" and modern Mahogany Bay is Carnival's (parent company of Princess and HAL as well as Carnival Cruise Lines) terminal, so our RCL owned ships port at Coxen Hole.

Coxen Hole - Roatan, Honduras - 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

SO FAR, this is sounding like perhaps the most negative post I have ever made here. And maybe a little bit of that "entitled American" is coming out here. That is not my intent. I am just calling it as I see it in regards to the western Caribbean ports. They weren't great. But then, with a couple notable exceptions, the Caribbean is - to us - more about the ships and the weather than about the ports. There are fun and interesting things to do, but we really focus our cruises there on the "cruise experience." Today, several years later, we are more likely to get off the ship and at least try to see some of the local culture. That was just a weird time in the world.

Celebrity Reflection (image courtesy of cruiseship gallery - copyright above)

AND THAT was great. It was refreshing to be back on familar "ground" with the Celebrity Reflection. We have generally found the food to be superior to the competition (particularly Princess and Holland America). We love the amentities and the laid back (and perhaps more mature) "vibe" of the Celebrity Ships. Not being particularly focused on the on shore portion of the cruise, we were happy as clams, just to be cruising again in "familiar waters." The weather was what you hope for at that time of the year - warm, mostly sunny, and beautiful. It was very enjoyable just to sit out on the ship, both at sea and in the ports.

Martini Bar - Celebrity Reflection 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

AS FOR "never say never," we are booked for the upcoming February (it is 2026 as I write this) for a kind of unique cruise. I think it may be the first of its kind - at least for Celebrity. We will be sailing out of Ft. Lauderdale on the Celebrity Eclipse, a Solstice Class ship, like the Reflection. We have not been on the Eclipse. It was the third of 5 in the class, while the Reflection was the last (and had a few touches that were newer than the prior 4). Since the last time we were on a Solstice ship, Celebrity has done some major refurbishing (they refer to it as "revolutionizing") of most of the Solstice ships, adding some new (and looking like welcome and exciting) new venues, while maintaining the general layout and popular venues (like the Sunset Bar and the Martinini Bar). From what I can tell the Eclipse has not yet been "revolutionized" and it is uncertain when that will happen. No matter. We like it the way it was just fine, too.

As for [the] "never say never" [thing], we are booked for the upcoming February [2027] . . . on the Celebrity Eclipse where we will do the vaunted "ABC" cruise in the western Caribbean

WHAT MAKES this cruise new and different is that over about 10 days, it splits the Eastern and Western Caribbean. Leaving out of Ft. Lauderdale, we will have the customary 2 sea days, before docking first at St. Kitts, followed by St. Lucia and then Barbados. We have friends joining us and (with the exception of St. Lucia which we will probably not even leave the ship), we have a pretty lively excursion agenda planned. We then have a another day at sea, as we head to the Western Caribbean where we will do the vaunted "ABC" cruise (Bonaire, Curacao and Aruba) where we again have a full agenda. My understanding is that the ABC islands will "change my mind" about the Western Caribbean. Looking forward to it.

Celebrity Reflection - Nassau, Bahamas - 2022
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

THIS ONE ended well and we had the usual almost melancholy about the last day. Fortunately for us we were both then retired and already looking forward to the next adventure. In September we would cruise on the Celebrity Apex (sister to the Edge) in the Baltic; a new part of the world for us. We would meet some great new friends on that cruise who would become familiar and frequent cruising companions and lifelong friends. Stay tuned.

Monday, September 21, 2026

Reflecting Back 6 years - What the 2020 CID-19 Pandemic Did to the Cruise Ship Industry

Over time, Celebrity has become our "go to" Ocean Cruise Line
Image Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

WE DIDN'T cruise in 2020. Nobody did. 2019 had been a busy "cruising" year, with 2 full cruises in the Mediterranean, though we seem to have taken a hiatus in Caribbean Cruises (that would change post-covid; I don't believe we have missed a year since we re-opened). And then the world shut down. The first officially confirmed case of Covid-19 is credited with an infection in Washington State in an individual who had recently traveled to the U.S. from Wuhan, China, widely believed to be the original source of the virus. However, post- pandemic studies seem to indicate that there instances of the virus on the U.S. west coast at least as early as December, 2019. I don't want to minimize the catastrophic effect of the disease on human lives and the world economy. At the same time, this is a blog about cruising and few industries were more effected by Covid-19. And I think that at first, many of us underestimated the sweep of this worldwide pandemic. For us, we had a series of several cancelled cruises before we were finally able to get back on a cruise ship in late 2121 on a limited basis.

I don't want to minimize the catastrophic effect of the disease on human lives and the world economy . . . [but] this is a blog about cruising and few industries were more effected by Covid-19

FROM THE perspective of the Cruise Industry, things officially started on the Princess Cruise Lines' Diamond Princess, in Japan, in February, 2020. The ship was ultimately quarantined for 14 days, before being evacuated. My information indicates that there were numerous confirmed infections and at least two deaths reported. Also reported was that the first confirmed Covid infection was found in a Chinese man who had flown to Yokohama to board the Diamond Princess for the cruise. This probably contributed to the widespread belief early on that the virus originated in China.

IN MARCH of 2020, the U.S. Center For Disease Control (CDC) and the Cruise LInes International Association (CLIC) stopped all cruising. We did not board a cruise ship again after our October 2019 "Italian Riviera" cruise on the Celebrity Edge, for a full 2 years. We had a series of cruises cancelled nearly as quickly as we could book them up until March 2020. In the meantime, we waited patiently for things to open back up.

IN LATE May, 2021, the CDC cleared a Celebrity Ship (Royal Caribbean Group) to sail from Southampton, England, to the U.S. Other lines followed suit in short order. Princess resumed operations in July 2021 with a week-long voyage to Alaska from Seattle aboard Majestic Princess.

Even though by late 2021, we were accustomed to masking and seeing everyone around us masked, it was still a bit surreal to be on a cruise ship where all the employees were masked at all times.
Copyright Andy Richards 2021 - All Rights Reserved

ON VIRTUALLY every one of these early re-entries, stringent Covid-19 protocols were observed. All guests and all ship employees were required to have received a COVID-19 vaccine 14 days prior to departure. Testing was required immediately prior to boarding the ship (in addition to the requirements imposed by countries where ships began and/or terminated their voyages. We were on our first cruise since the pandemic closed things down; The Royal Princess, sailing out of Southampton. Our progression was complex. In order to board our airplane in the U.S. we had to show proof of vaccination, and proof of negative test results within 48 hours of boarding. When we landed at London Heathrow, in addition to again providing proof of vaccination, we were required to test immediately after deplaning. We go our rapid (thankfully negative) results via text message on board our express train from LHR to our hotel in London. Upon arriving a few day later at Princess' Southhampton cruise port, we were once again required to undergo rapid testing, waiting in a separate waiting area for our results. Once again getting negative test results, we were allowed to board the ship. A week later, before we got on our bus to LHR to return to the U.S. we were again required to undergo rapid testing while still on board the ship. That is quite a process.

RULES WERE also enforced regarding the face masks and social distancing. On board the Regal Princess, we were required to wear masks whenever moving about public areas, including passageways, elevators, buffets, restaurants and bars, the theatres and bathrooms. Even while walking outside the ship. Only once you sat down in a venue, or in your stateroom were you allowed to unmask. In spite of the comfort issues that could present, most people "got" that it was necessary. You were not allowed to approach the bars to order a drink. You had to be waited on. Perhaps a saving grace on Princess was their medallion system, allowing ordering on an app, and facilitating staff finding you with your order. But the thing that I hated the most, however, was that the ship crew were all required to be masked at all times. I didn't like that I couldn't see the person who was interacting with me. I couldn't see their smile (something that is pretty common among cruise ship staff). Fortunately, all this was temporary.

But it appears it was the proverbial "too soon."

CAPACITY reduced during the initial phase of the resumption.The success of the first voyages was followed by the resumption of service on additional vessels. In addition to the ships "feeling their way" with Covid Protocol, the ports were having their own issues. Our Regal Princess itinerary when we boarded the ship was to include The Isle of Guernsey, La Rochelle, France, and Bilbao, Spain. The two latter cities are substantial, with Bilbao known for its Guggenheim Museum and Medieval Old Town and La Rochelle for its beautiful old vieux Port and gothic architecture. Both are cities. But it appears it was the proverbial "too soon." Guernsey was simply not allowing ships at all yet, and that port was simply cancelled. The two cities were substituted with the desolate (yet perhaps beautiful) Soulac sur Mer (for La Rochelle) and the small, commercial/industrial A 'Coruna. Though both were nice - and places in the world we can now say we visited - there was little to do in either place. Soulac was essentially an outpost. There was a provided shuttle into the very small, beach resort. Other than a capucino, or expresso and some knick-knack shopping there was literally nothing to do but walk around. While surely unfair, we thought A 'Coruna was just kind of a plain, metropolitan area where lots of people lived and worked. We walked around briefly and returned to the ship. Not the most memorable cruise - especially from a port stop perpective.

STILL, WE were cruising again, and we had to be grateful for that. We remained optimistic that it would get better in time. And it did. But it did take a bit. Predictably there were significant financial losses. RCL was said to have been losing around $500 million monthly during the shutdown of operations. Overall, the industry is said to have lost nearly $80 billion over the nearly 2-year period. Perhaps more significant, the pandemic was responsible for the loss of around 160,000 cruise industry - related jobs.

Still, we were cruising again

THERE WERE also some not so obvious consequences. The shutdown and economic stress motivated ship companies to streamline, scrapping or selling many of their older and less efficient vessels, resulting in small fleets. At the same time, all lines have moved toward a more efficient digital approach to operations. Health and sanitation protocols have been modernized.

those of us who have experienced substantial cruises both pre and post Covid do share some concerns

THE TAKEAWAY is surprising. Today, just a few years hence, the industry has experienced the biggest boom in its history. Jobs are back at and above previous levels. Newer, often bigger, more modern ships are being ordered and built at unprecedented levels, proving, we think, our optimism well-founded. However, those of us who have experienced substantial cruises both pre and post Covid do share some concerns. Like every other thing post-Covid, costs and prices have gone up substantially. At the same time, cost-cutting measures have in numerous instances resulted in a lowered quality experience in areas and on board lines we have come to expect great quality from. As we continue to look at Covid in the rear-view mirror, we can only hope things will continue to improve and adjust in a postitive manner.

WE RETURNED to the Caribbean and to full - time, "normal" cruising in 2022. As I have noted, among other world-wide cruises, we have not (yet) missed a year in the Caribbean, making some new friends and establishing some new "traditions." Stay tuned here, as I continue the walk through the years of our cruises.

Monday, September 14, 2026

2019 - La Spezia

Port of La Spezia, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

La SPEZIA. Our next stop. We were scheduled for a much anticipated stop in Santa Margherita and Portofino; just a short ferry ride from our Santa Margherita port dock. I really hope to be back there someday when we can stop. I have seen video of the beautiful little Italian port town. But alas, it would not happen on this cruise. What happened? In a word, Weather. One of the things we have learned from our travels is that you can plan meticulously and things still don't always go according to scheme. There are just some things we cannot control. Weather is one of them. I often read with a chuckle, people complaining on various forums about this cruise or that cruise they took "sucked," because they missed a port or two. This was their "trip of a lifetime." It often comes across as if it is somebody elses "fault." Trust me. The cruise lines don't like having to skip a port any more than their customers do. In addition to disappointing passengers, it costs them. Fuel equations, port fees and time all are unplanned costs. And, usually they also have the cost of crediting some of their costs (e.g. port fees) back to their passengers. But they know (read your contract - LOL, we all know nobody does) that there will be inevitable problems that are generally out of their control.

[I]t is nearly 100 miles from the La Spezia port to Florence!

ON A cruise ship, the biggest and most common uncontrolled "variable" is weather. And for an ocean-going vessel, that is mostly going to be wind and consequent waves. There are just going to be times when, despite the best laid plans, conditions will be unsafe to anchor and tender (or even sometimes to dock). Most often this is a problem with tender ports. While the seas do not appear to be effecting the cruise ship to passengers, the much smaller tender boats are unsafe for passengers. In those cases, the captain may choose to skip the port completely. That is what happened on this cruise. While it happens, in our experience it doesn't happen all that frequently. But when it does, it is obviously disappointing. And the cruise line will be the first to tell you that passenger safety is their highest goal. I believe that - at least on a high level - they are sincere about that. We can certainly argue that certain policies and practices, and sometimes lack of maintenance, goes against my belief. But again, I think those conditions are the exception, rather than the rule.

Port of La Spezia, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

SOMETIME DURING the afternoon, the captain came on the PA system and announced that port authorities in Santa Margherita (our scheduled stop) had determined that condition at the port rendered it unsafe to tender passengers in. Rather than anchor out, or just sail around, the captain had radioed ahead to our next scheduled port (La Spezia) and obtained permission to arrive and dock early. So. No Santa Margherita. No Portofino. Disappointing. But what I have come to call "First World Problems." We will hope for another oppportunity and be sure to avail ourselves of it if it does arise. We sailed into La Spezia in the evening, and our stop turned into an overnight stop. That didn't make much difference this time, as the unplanned changes had left us without opportunity to arrange, or schedule any additonal shore activities. Our plan continued to be to walk off and try to find our way to a nearby attraction.

Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

IN THE meantime, La Spezia was a brand new port for us. As a photographer, I think it is a pretty special venue. Later, I learned that all those pretty, pastel colored buildings built into the hillsides were historically not colorful at all. While I have to imagine they were still very picturesque, the brightly colored paint was the brainchild of promoters of tourism in the 1970s, as they realized that the colors would completely transform the landscape, making Cinque Terre the huge photo-op that it is today! We have since been back and I expect will be back more times if we sail itineraries along the Italian Mediterranean coastline. With its deep, protected harbor, La Spezia has a well-developed port with lots of commercial and even some military activity, making it one of Italy's most important ports and including a major Italian Naval Base. For tourism, it is noted for its close proximity to the Cinque Terre National Park (more detail below). One of my pet peeves - and I have written (perhaps ad nauseum) about it a few times - is the cruiselines' misleading promotional materials for this port. Every cruise brochure and online itinerary calls the La Spezia port "for Florence and/or Pisa." It certainly can be done, and I see many passengers talking about it on online sources. But it is nearly 100 miles from the La Spezia port to Florence! And 50 miles from the port to Pisa. You can travel there by train (and La Spezia had a nice, modern train station), or by private car. But either one is going to eat up well over half your day on a normal single-day cruise stop.

One of my pet peeves - and I have written (perhaps ad nauseum) about it a few times - is the cruiselines' misleading promotional materials [for some of its port stops]

IN THE past, we sailed this part of the Mediterranean on Princess, and at least back at that time, their principal port was Livorno. Livorno is comparatively more practical as a port from which to visit these two places. Pisa is 12 miles from Livorno, and easily doable. Florence, though, is still 50 miles from Florence. That is still a pretty good distance to reach Florence, another one of those towns in Italy that really begs for more than just a day trip. We did an excursion to both Pisa and Florence in 2015 and though we arrived in Pisa early and spent a nice leisurely time there, the rest of our trip to Florence felt rushed and we concluded there was really not enough time to see the city. I have a personal goal to see Florence in a more leisurely fashion one day, and that will involve and overnight or two. But when I see discussion online about travel to either Pisa or Florence from La Spezia, my own contribution it to pour cold water on it, pointing out the above and suggesting the trip might be disappointing. Everyone works within their own set of expectations, though.

Containers waiting to be loaded - Port of La Spezia, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THERE ARE two reasons I discourage Florence/Pisa excursions from the La Spezia port. The first is the factors I set out above. The second, though, might (should, in my opinion), ice it for anyone looking for a great day! Immediately to the northeast of La Spezia is a region along the north wets coast of Italy, on the Ligurian Sea (part of the Mediterranian), lies a region of Italy known as Cinque Terre (roughly translated: "5 lands"). Cinque Terre consists of 5 tiny little villages which lie along the western slopes of the Appenine Mountains (which form a "spine" down the Italian Peninsula). Now a National Park, there is a hiking trail from one end to the other, through the villages. The buildings, in most cases, are built right into the steep faces of the mountains creating a breathtaking scene which really makes you wonder: "How did they do that?" Today, the buildings are painted in bright pastel (if that is not a contradiction) colors which give is a kind of artists rendering as you view it. Each village has its viewpoints, and each has a small, but imminently picturesque harbor.

Port of La Spezia in the early morning light - La Spezia, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

CINQUE TERRE is among the easiest to reach sights you will ever find on a cruise. It is just over a mile from the cruise port to the train station. There is a "commuter" train that travels from the La Spezia station to all 5 of the Cinque Terre villages and runs every 15 - 20 minutes. Best of all, it is extremely affordable. When I was there last (2022) an all-day on and off pass was just 8 euros. The trip from La Spezia is under 4.5 miles, so just a very few minutes, to the first of the 5 villages, Riomaggiore, and the next village, Manarola, is only 3/4 mile further on the train. The distance between any of the 5 villages are all less than 2 miles, so the train rides are quick and short. It is also possible to visit Cinque Terre by boat. There are sightseeing boats that sail by each village. I am not sure if or when they stop. I want to be on the ground with my camera, so the train works well for me.

Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

I HAD done some research on Cinque Terre and knew it would be one of those chance of a lifetime photography opportunities. I did not do my homework as well as I could have though. I didn't know about the commuter train, the cheap cost, or the convenience it gives. Going ashore, we were joined by our new friends, Rob, Carol, Neil and Mel. We didn't really know much about the train situation, which is why I go to such length to discuss it here - do not be afraid to use it! It is so easy and so convenient and so inexpensive. You can walk to the station, though that is probably going to be 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Or you can take a relatively reasonable taxi right outside of the cruise port - which makes it a 5-10 minute trip to the station. From there, the train is easy-peazy. Don't hesitate. We did, and we ended up sharing a taxi, which took us to the second village of Manarola. We did that because my research told me Manarola was the village I most wanted to photograph. We didn't know, however, that there are no cars down in these villages. Instead, way up on the highway, there is a large parking area for busses, taxis, and I presume private vehicles. We had to walk down from there, about 1/2, down a very steep grade (which made it feel a lot longer), to the center of the village. We passed the train station just a very short distance from the village center, and made note of it. We bought tickets and rode the train back to La Spezia - and learned about the daily fee setup. I knew that I would be back one day and would keep that information in mind.

Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Righs Reserved

DON'T LET those short and quick train rides fool you though. In each instance there is a bit of a (downhill) walk from the station into the tiny little seaport towns. Nothing like the walk down from the Manarola parking area, though. And worth the walk. But in addition to perhaps a 10 minute additional walk, you will want to spend more time than that in each village. The views are nothing short of spectacular, and the villages still rustic, with strong remnants of their seafaring, fishing history. Like many places in the world, tourism has become a (if not the) major source of income for these villages. But they have done a wonderful job of preserving them. We ended up only having time for Manarola. But in 2022, we were back again, this time on an overnight stop - once again on the Celebrity Edge. And that time, I had a plan. I was off the ship early in the morning and on my way to the first village: Riomaggiore. I would meet my group later - in Manarola. Got some great photos on that visit, and did some vigorous hiking. But that is for an upcoming hike.

Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy
Copyright 2022 - All Rights Reserved

FOR THIS trip, the day in Manarola was to be our final stop of the cruise. For a cruise which was relatively unplanned for us and on which we didn't know a soul the day we boarded, this one was a pretty amazing experience. In addition to our sightseeing and photography opportunities, we made a few great friends. And with 6 Celebrity cruises under our belts now, we were feeling right at home with the cruise line - truly becoming "(I Am) A Celebrity." 😁 We had a couple different additional cruises planned, to other areas of Europe (notably the Baltic). We were on a roll and pretty excited about our future cruises. To our disappointment, it turned out that we would not set foot onto another cruise ship for two full years. This one was in October of 2019. In less than two months' time the world would experience a crushing blow that my generation and younger had never experienced - a worldwide pandemic. By 2020, most of the world was locked down by COVID 19. We wouldn't reopen 2 years later, and even that was shaky. We had 3 or 4 cruises cancelled, an re-scheduled as COVID inexorably shut the world down. Finally, we were able to forward our pre-booked cruise fees for a renewed Baltic Cruise in 2022. But I am getting ahead of myself. Stay tuned. We were ultimately able to sneak in a couple short cruises at the end of 2021 and early 2022. I will blog about them in the not too distant future.

Sunday, August 30, 2026

2019 - Monaco

Monte Carlo - Monaco
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

SOMEWHAT IRONICALLY, we were now more than half way through our cruise and we still hadn't really touched on the namesake, "Italian Riviera." Our next port, Monaco, is some 300 plus miles from Barcelona, so we would have another "at sea" day between Barcelona and Monaco. Monaco is right on the border between France and Italy (hence the French Riviera and the Italian Riviera), so we were probably technically at the "Italian" Riviera after we cruised on from Monaco.

Monaco
Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WE GOT to see a touch of Spain, France and Monaco, in addition to the planned Italian destinations. Our last 3 ports were to be Monaco, Santa Margarita, and La Spezia. First, though, was Monaco. Monaco has the distinction of being the second smallest (by area) country in the world, being nearly 5 times the size of the smallest: Vatican City. By population, however, Monaco is not even among the 10 least populated countries. I was surprised (but not shocked) by that. During a work day, the population swells by a magnitude, as the vast majority of the working population lives outside the city in nearby France or Italy. The reason is pretty simple. They cannot afford to be a resident of Monaco. Basic requirements (there are some exceptions and some other requirements), are that you must deposit a minimum of 500,000 euros in a Monaco bank, and must rent or own property in Monaco. There are no inexpensive properties or rentals in Monaco! It really is a place for the so-called "rich and famous."

MONACO IS noted for a couple permanent institutions: The Monte Carlo Casino and the Monaco Grand Prix street race. Historically, it is also noted for Princess Grace (American Actress Grace Kelly) who was married to Prince Rainier III of Monaco, and who was famously killed in a solo automobile crash in Monaco in 1982. She had been "Princess Grace" since 1956. the Prince's Palace is also one of the architectural "must see" sites in Monaco.

YOU CANNOT see the Grand Prix unless you are there in June - and good luck finding a place to stay or getting anywhere near the race, unless you know somebody. We did the next best things. Our driver drove the entire course with us - showing us the famous hairpin turn that slows the racers down to almost normal street speeds. Nonetheless, one of the things Monaco is known for is the near omnipresence of extravagant automobiles, and we saw a few of those.

THE VERY small nation state houses the Prince's Palace, the Casino, and good handful of ritzy high-rize buildings along the downtown area. There is also a public marina and one or two private marinas. They hold some of the worlds largest and most ostentatious yachts in the world (with ownership worldwide).

THERE IS no pier in Monaco large enough to accomodate the larger cruise ship (The moored ship pictured is actually an Oceania "small ship" - which we would have a chance to sail on a couple years later), so it was a "tender" port. As we would learn by example, tender port stops on a cruise are very much dependent upon the weather and sea conditions. Fortunately, our stop in Monaco proved to be relatively calm seas.

WE HAD booked an excursion that day that would take us back from Monaco to Nice, France, and then a stop in ancient Eze, France before returning to Monaco for the balance of the tour.

ONCE WE stepped off the tender, we found our group of just a few people and more importantly, our guide for the day.

AFTER TAKING us once around the Monaco Grand Prix Track, we headed west, for Nice, France. Our French guide and driver was very knowledgeable about the region, its geography and its history. He started out with a "quiz" for us. Two questions. He noted that our excursion was described as a visit to the famous "Riviera" (for which Monaco is also noted and famous). So, he first asked: "what does that ("riviera") mean?" I must confess I hadn't ever really given it much thought. I didn't really know. The answer was logical and simple enough. The riviera is where the land meets the sea, or the coastline. It is an Italian word (ironic, that most of us are more familiar with the term "French Riviera." While the French do also reference the "Riviera," the French aggrandised name for their own riviera is actually Cote' d' Azur ) making reference to the azure blue waters of the Mediterranean along the coast. The French Riviera stretches from St. Tropez all the way to the Italian Border. Today we would spend most of our time along the French Riviera.

TO THE west of Monaco, about 5 - 6 miles, the border is between the French town of Menton and the Italian town of Ventimiglia. From there, the riviera is known as The Italian Riviera, or Riviera di Ponente. We would not travel there, or anywhere east of Monaco that day. Someday, I would love to explore the area. We would instead sail some 100 miles east toward Portofino, Italy for our next stop.

NICE IS the 5th largest city in France and one of the two largest on the Mediterranean Coast (the other being Marseille - France's 3rd largest), with populations of nearly one million. Originally occupied by the ancient Greeks, dominion over the city changed a number of times over the centuries. Since the end of Medieval times, it was controlled by Savoy, the French First Republic, Sardinia (eventually Italy) and then back to France in the middle of the 19th century. During those times its strategic position on the coast made it an important seaport. But in the 19th century, Nice, once a walled city, experienced sustantial growth and popularity for its tranquil beauty and its position along the Cote' di Azur. It became a place for vacation visits from the rich and famous of central Europe, including England's Queen Victoria, who probably was as responsible as any other factor for turning Nice into a premier holiday location. Victoria spent many cold winters on the French Riviera - most of them in Nice. One of the first things we came upon after parking in the Old City was the Maison Auer Chocolate shop, which is reputed to be the Queen's favorite shop in Nice.

QUEEN VICTORIA wasn't the only famous person to spend significant time in Nice, however. Attracted by the clear air and soft light of the coastline, artists Henri Matisse, and Marc Chagall spent many months painting there. Writers Friederich Nietzsche and Anton Chekhov spent winters there, completing some of the famous written works for which they are known. And the list goes on.

OLD NICE is build like many older European cities, with narrow streets and alley lined with stone and brick buildings. The prominent architecture there is Baroque, which followed from the Rennaissance coming out of the Middle Ages. They are photogenic and beautiful to look at. In the center of Old Nice, a mere 3 blocks from the seacoast, is the noted Cours Salaya outdoor fresh food and flower market, which lines the center of the street with vendor stalls for very nearly 1/4 mile. Both sides of the boulevard are lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. It being mid-morning, it felt like a good time to take a load off, rest our feet, and just soak in the easy, slow moving atmosphere at one of the sidewalk coffee shops. It also gave us access to wifi (back in 2019 the ship-base wifi was essentially non-existent, and very expensive and we got along without it by finding hotspots whenever on shore). I made one of my favorite "street" shots here of the gentleman reading his morning paper and having coffee. He seemed like the quintessential French country gentleman.

BY THE second half of the 18th Century, Nice had become a very popular winter destination for the English, seeking sunshine and more moderate weather. The Old City (Old Nice) was set along a shallow bay, known as Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels). The English aristocratic regulars began to build a promenade along the beach for the view. The city of Nice decided to substantially expand the project, covering a long stretch along the Bay. It was orginally referred to by the locals as The English Way. Upon completion of the entire wide walkway, however it was eventually renamed La Promenade des Anglais, by the French. Today a premier attraction for visitors and resident alike, it was that Promenade that became the center of worldwide attention when on July 14, 2016 a Muslia terrorist drove his truck into a crowd of people on the Promenade watching a fireworks display in celebration of Bastile Day. That was probably my first knowledge of the famous promenade and I want to walk it and photograph it while in Nice.

WE REJOINED our guide and headed back east, in the direction of Monaco. But not before first making another really cool stop in the Medieval Village of Eze, approximately mid-way between Nice and Eze. Currently, the population of the tiny little mountainside village is something just over 2,000 residents. I refer to it as a village, but it is - more accurately - a commune. Reputed to have been first populated in 200 BC, it fell, alternately, under the dominion of "the usual suspects": Greeks, Romans, Moors, and so on. Ultimately Eze came under the control of France.

SOMEWHAT MISLEADINGLY referred to as a "Seaside Village," its center is up a very steep, narrow, mountain some 1,400 feet above the coast. It is also often - more accurately, I think - referred to as an "Eagle's Nest." The commanding view of the Cote de Azur below made for a strategic and very defensible vantage point. Eze actually borders Monaco.

THE NOTRE Dame de l’Assomption church is build on nearly the highest point in Eze. I say nearly because there is yet another higher elevation that is truly something of an eagle's nest. You reach it by climbing a steep, twisty, stone path up to the very top. The church was built in 1762, but there are some relics inside that suggest that the location dates much further back was once a Phoenician Temple.

AFTER A short time up the mountain, we again re-joined our guide at the base (as far as his vehicle could go), to head back - finally - to Monaco. We got out and walked briefly around the Monte Carlo Casino. And even more briefly inside. I am not a gambler. But even if I was - the ante to get in: too rich for my blood.

WE HEADED up to The Prince's Palace and a couple stops from up at that high vantage point, where we could see well down into the city tucked around the harbor. That is where I made the shots down of the port and our Celebrity Edge ship. We also saw some smaller boat harbors and residential housing in the area. You don't see single family housing in Monaco. Most of it is medium to high-rise.

SOON ENOUGH, our day was over and we headed back to the tenders, for our very short ride back to the ship. We were ready for the next stop! Portofino. I had watched a Rick Steve's You-Tube of his visit there prior to this cruise. The actual stop was Santa Margherita. It looked, from the photos I had seen, to be a pretty harbor. And a very short 15-minute ferry ride to nearby Portofino. No excursions were booked. We planned to walk the harbors and streets and just take it in. We would be getting off the ship with two other couples, Rob and Carol and Neil and Mel, who we had met onboard and become friends with. We looked forward to a nice day on shore. Alas, we didn't get it. I will break the suspense in the next (upcoming) post. In the meantime, some readers may have realized that I left you hanging earlier. 😁 I do that sometimes - but I try to get back on track. I said that our guide's quiz consisted of two questions. The second? He asked us if we knew why Monaco's highest royalty was only a Prince (and not a King). In the answer was a history lesson that I really should have known! But I didn't. Monaco is a sovereign nation. But historically, it is/was known as "The Principality of Monaco." Not "the kingdom." And there you go: King = "Kingdom." Prince = "Principality."