Sunday, July 23, 2023

2021 - A Return to Cruising - England, Spain and France

WHEN WE disembarked our Celebrity "Italian Riviera" Cruise in Civitavecchia in October 2019, we had no idea what the next two years would have in store for the world. We have made it a habit to book a "future cruise" while on board, and we had done so then. We planned to cruise in the Mediterranean again in 2020, this time on a "Canary Islands" cruise.

Princess Royal Class Ship - Copyright Andy Richards 2015 - All Rights Reserved

THE COVID-19 pandemic caught everyone by surprise. Its strength, intensity and scope was much greater than many assumed when it first appeared in Europe. Many of us viewed it as a - perhaps unusually virulent - strain of the flu. Something we have become accustomed to in our world. And something that we would simply develop another "flu shot" variant to combat. Not to in any way downplay the massive toll it took on human life, and essential elements of world economies, it might be an understatement to say it nearly decimated the Cruise Industry.

the pandemic most certainly changed the cruise industry

INDEED, THE travel industry as a whole would take a massive hit. In 2021, we traveled (by land) in Portugal for just over 2 weeks. As we have done on our cruises, we arranged several small, guided excursions. We heard some pretty sad accounts from a couple of our guides. One in particular, a gregarious, fun-loving guy from Lisbon, took us to the UNESCO Pena Palace in the village of Sintra and surrounds, told us of the many, many persons formerly employed in the business of tourism. A majority of them were now unemployed, and a shocking number had committed suicide! In addition to the tally on human life directly, the pandemic had tragic impact in far-reaching ways. Until that moment, I hadn't realized the effects were so devastating in what we assumed was an essentially "fun and games," industry. But to those real humans making careers and livings it was as real as could be.

The sole photo I made during our stop in France was of this foggy morning scene over Soulac-sur-Mer, from the deck of the ship

Copyright Andy Richards 2021
All Rights Reserved

AS ANYONE who has cruised recently, or considered a cruise and done any amount of research should know, the pandemic most certainly has changed the cruise industry. Most of us remember the stories of the 1000's of crew members who were stranded at sea, proverbial prisoners of their ships, for months while cruise lines and their countries of citizenship scrambled with issues of safe transport and re-entry policies. Not only were we unprepared, but we were scared. In the aftermath of 2+ years of unemployment, as the cruise industry has gradually ramped up again, it has been a bumpy start. As most of us know, cruise employees work by contract, generally measured in months. Not all are the same time frame, and cruise companies have divisions dedicated to the logistics of providing crew for each ship and moving them on and off. But they never planned to move 10's of thousands at once. At the same time, world-wide reaction to the pandemic made it difficult for the employees to return home. Ports and countries closed any entry by anyone other than its citizens. This made transportation a nightmare.

a substantial number of employees - once they finally returned home - turned to other employment, never to return to the cruise ships

FACING MONTHS of unemployment (many crew members' cruise line earnings support their families back home), a substantial number of employees - once they finally returned home - turned to other employment, never to return to the cruise ships. Once the cruising "world" re-opened, the lines were faced with a new set of problems. In addition to complete changes in the way they prepared and managed their ships, they had a severe shortage of trained and qualified employees. At the same time, worldwide travel restrictions made it hard to get them to the ships.

A'Coruna, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2021
All Rights Reserved

NOT SURPRISINGLY, our scheduled Canary Islands cruise (as were all other cruises) was cancelled. Ever optimistic, we booked another cruise, this one to Iceland. It too was cancelled. I think we went through a series of about 4 Celebrity bookings that were cancelled one-by-one as the pandemic continued on much longer than anyone had anticipated. Finally, a future cruise in 2022, on the Celebrity Edge, to the Baltic, stuck. More on that cruise in a later blog. In the meantime, my personal "cruise director" and travel planner found a cruise in late 2021, on the Regal Princess, out of Southhampton, England. Capitalizing on the cost to get over the pond and back, we spent a week in London prior to embarking from Southhampton.  I hit London pretty hard, photographically, and if you are interested in that visit (not really a cruise blog topic, but related) you can start here on my LightCentricPhotography Blog, where there are a series of 13 successive blogs with many photos of our very eventful week in London and vicinity, before heading to Southampton for this cruise.  Back in April of 2019 (blissfully unaware of things like worldwide pandemics), readers may recall that we made a brief, and probably not well thought out, trip to London from a cruise stop in Dover. We left there vowing to return to London on our own terms, and really seeing the city. So, given cost of getting over "The Pond" and back, we booked a hotel in one of London's great "suburbs," (Paddington) for a full week before taking the train down to Southampton to board the ship. We chose Paddington, not only for its central location (a major train interchange as well at Tube stop), but because it had an express train directly from Heathrow. 

Port of A'Coruna, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2021
All Rights Reserved

THE ITINERARY for this cruise was kind of "ho hum," in my view. But we were once again on a cruise ship after a two-year hiatus. We were excited enough just about that. And an added positive for us was London! While we felt things were under some semblance of control, and that the world was slowly opening up again, we certainly were not completely done with the fallout from the pandemic. For this trip (from Tampa to Atlanta to Heathrow and back again), we had to test negative 4 times: first in the U.S. (within 48 hours of the flight) to board a plane for Europe. Then immediately upon arrival in London (we did a rapid test right at Heathrow, with results e-mailed to us while we were still on the train to Paddington). Then once again, before we boarded the cruise ship in Southampton (this one courtesy of Princess), and then again, the day we disembarked (again, courtesy of Princess). We felt some tension each time, and breathed a sigh of relief each time we tested negative. While we felt that Princess handled the Covid-Testing piece quite well, one has to wonder if a positive test and quarantine would have yielded the same good feeling. We were fortunate not to have to find out.

In La Rochelle and Bilbao there would be things to do, see, and learn ... in our alternative ports? Not so much

EVEN SO, the itinerary was changed, most certainly due to the still cautious worldwide attitude toward Covid. Originally a scheduled (and anticipated) stop, Guernsey was still closed to the world and that port was simply cancelled, adding another sea day. Next, Princess announced that two other ports had been changed (no reasons given). The first was that La Rochelle, France would no longer be our port of call. Instead, the ship would dock at Soulac-Sur-Mer. La Rochelle is an important port/maritime city of about 78,000 people. It is noted for its medieval and renaissance architecture and picturesque seaport. It is rich with European history, including the Siege of La Rochelle, essentially marking the end of the (Protestant) Huguenot rebellions, and solidifying France as a Monarchy. Things to do, learn and see. Contrast that with Soulac-sur-Mer. Population 2,600. Remote dock several miles from the only attraction in the area, a nice beach town. Not in season! Not sure what Princess was thinking here.

A' Coruna, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2021
All Rights Reserved

THEY THEN substituted Bilbao, Spain with A'Coruna, Spain. Again, one wonders what the thinking was. Bilbao is a major, bustling city of nearly 350,000, in the heart of the Basque Region. It houses the spectacular (architecturally) Guggenheim Museum on the banks of The River Nervion. It is also known for its Basque cuisine. The city looks vibrant and is said to be quite flat and easily walkable. Things to do, learn and see (have I said that already?). 😎. A' Coruna? Not so much. In fairness, A'Coruna is a fairly large city (240,000-ish). There are things to do there, and perhaps better research (and maybe more forewarning) would have helped. But the Guggenhiem? C'mon Princess. As it was, we got off, walked around the city in the port area, had a cup of coffee at a sidewalk cafe, and re-boarded the ship. One of the "negatives" we seem to notice since the re-opening of cruise travel is that the ports of call are not as good as they once were.

WE KNEW it was a short cruise, and London had really been the highlight of the trip. Onboard, the experience was mostly good. At the time, facemasks were still mandatory in most places. The ship's policy (and from my reading, it was the same on most other lines) was that you must wear a mask while moving about the public areas on the ship. Once you sat down somewhere, you could remove it. Effective? Good question. Food in the buffet was served by workers rather than self-serve. O.k., but not what we had become accustomed to (on Celebrity, today - 2023 - we seem to be back to the normal, self-serve buffet style). And drinks? The same. You were not allowed to approach any bar anywhere on board. You had to wait until a server approached you and served you. And the crew - all masked up. All the time. We understood it was necessary. But the easy camaraderie we had grown to enjoy with the wait staff and bartenders was missing. We couldn't see their smiling (we assumed) faces. It just wasn't the same and left us hoping this wasn't the proverbial "new normal." Thankfully, time has borne out that it isn't. I have been on 3 cruises in 2023, and things in that quarter seem to be back to normal.

A rather sedate bartender immediately "post-Covid"
Copyright Andy Richards
All Rights Reserved

AS FOR the Regal Princess? We liked her. One of their newest classes (the Royal Class), she is - for us "right-sized," modern, and clean. There is plenty to do on board. Princess may have the best shows in cruising, and their on-board cast and orchestra are superb. My bias believes that the food on Celebrity is a notch better. But only a small notch and we found the food aboard the Regal to be very good.

In 2017, Princess introduced its "Medallion" class aboard the Regal Princess. It was soon added to other ships in the "Royal" class, with an announced plan to eventually extend to all Princess ships (something I believe has now been accomplished). Our 5th cruise aboard Princess, the medallion was new to us. We really liked it. I am not sure why others have not copied this idea. Instead of the "Sea Pass" card we are all so used to, you are given a small, plastic medallion (about the diameter of a U.S. quarter - very similar to an Apple Airtag or equivalent). But inside there is digital magic. The medallion serves as your onboard pass, opening your stateroom, and used for all onboard charges. But that's not really the "magic." That is in the Princess Medallion "app." Princess, by the way, beats the heck out of Celebrity in this department, with an app that actually works (well most of the time). You can add other passengers to your app, and it will then use the medallion to locate them (some thought this a bit creepy, but you don't have to do it). My wife and I liked it because we could always know where the other was. We often are doing separate activities aboard and want to meet up. But it's even better than that. With the medallion, you can order food or drink anywhere on the ship - no matter where you are - and they will find you and bring it to you! Pretty cool.

A' Coruna, Spain
Copyright Andy Richards 2021
All Rights Reserved

IT WAS our first "post-Covid" cruise experience. It was nice to be on a cruise ship again. But we felt we had a way to go to get back to the cruising we knew and loved. It would get better. It had too! And as we have experienced over time, it did. We would cruise again in the Caribbean in 2022. We were on the way back.

Sunday, June 25, 2023

La Spezia

La Spezia - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

L
A SPEZIA ("La Spe'tzia") was our last stop before arriving and disembarking . A new stop for us, I find the cruise port - from the ship deck - surprisingly interesting, photographically. It is an "industrial" (primarily cargo) port, which is situated very near a small, Italian Naval Facility. There was a lot of commercial activity going on. Because of the nature of the port, we weren't allowed to just get off the ship and walk around. There was a complimentary shuttle from the wharf to the port entrance (about 1.5 miles), that took us out of the port.

Port of La Spezia - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WITH OUR inability to safely tender into Portofino, the captain announced that they had made early accommodation arrangements, and that we would just sail on by Portofino, arriving at La Spezia early. We arrived in the early morning hours. Because we didn't have anything planned, we were not in a huge rush to get off the ship. Also, the showery weather put a bit of a damper on things.

Port of La Spezia - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

BECAUSE WE arrived during nighttime, I was able to get a few rare nighttime shots. I always enjoy when we overnight at a port with some photographic potential. We have done so in Naples and Barcelona, and now, La Spezia.

La Spezia - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WE MADE plans with our new friends, to go over to Cinque Terre to casually explore. I had done some basic research, but not really enough to appreciate the huge photographic opportunities there. This was a cruise we had booked on the spur of the moment, and we had not made our usual intensive private excursion arrangements. We really didn't know much about this stop and decided to just play it "by ear," so to speak. As much as the photographer in me urges me in certain directions, sometimes, it is just nice to relax, socialize, and not really think about making good pictures. This was one of those times. But I still managed to sneak away and make a few.

Village of Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

THE PLANNED "excursion" to Cinque Terre would not happen until early afternoon. Wanting to check email, stretch our legs, and get a cup of coffee, my wife and I walked off the ship mid-morning, and took the shuttle to the city, and walked a couple blocks into the city center to find a coffee shop. One thing we discovered while walking around is that La Spezia is not particularly remarkable. It is just a normal, mid-sized city. I think most of it involved commerce, industry, and the people who live there. There really isn't much to promote tourism in the city itself.

Manarola from above - Cinque Terre, Italy - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

CINQUE TERRE, translates to English as "Five Lands." There are 5 bucolic fishing villages along this portion of the "Italian Riviera," in a region known as Liguria. From later research I learned that 3 of the 5 villages were built right into the steep seaside mountains. Each of these 3 villages, Riomaggiore, Manarola, and Vernazza, have small, quaint, and very picturesque harbors. Having seen shots of a couple of them, these fishing harbors with the mountainside buildings were the primary attraction for me. There is a hiking trail, which begins in either the southernmost village (Riomaggiore) or the northernmost (Monteroso al Mare) ["al Mare" means "by the sea"] and goes from one end to the other. It is possible (and at times popular) to hike this trail. If you are fit, and a hiker, it may well be the best way to see all the villages, as well as the views in between. But I think it would be impossible to do on a day-long cruise stop. It is one of those destinations in Italy where I think it would be worth spending more than a day.

Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WE KNEW, generally, that the area could be accessed by boat, train, or automobile. But we didn't know the details. In hindsight, we made perhaps the worst choice of the three. Not really knowing train schedules (or how close the train station was), we opted to take a taxi from the port entrance. The drive from La Spezia to the village we had chosen (Manarola), was unremarkable. As we approached the village, we came to a large parking area high above the village. At that point our driver informed us that we were "at the end of the line." There was no vehicular traffic further down into the village. We had a long, steep walk down to the main village. On the way, we passed the railroad station, very much closer to the village. Later that day, we learned that there was a commuter rail line that ran between the 5 villages. All day tickets would allow unlimited on and off access for the day at all of the villages. We took the train back to the La Spezia station.

Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

I KNEW that the village could be photographed from a pedestrian trail that was really the main tourist spot. I had read that there were other (purportedly better) vantage points. But I didn't really have the time (nor inclination) to seek them out. I did (I thought) the best I could with what I had. And really, the viewpoint is pretty amazing (when I later returned to Manarola in 2022, I found all of the suggested viewpoints - including a strenuous hike up to the top of a cemetery - and made shots from there. In spite of a fair amount of commentary to the contrary, my own conclusion is that none are better than the primary tourist spot. Nor are they worth the effort, in my view).

The "main" tourist spot to photograph Manarola - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WE SAT and had a drink at one of the little sidewalk establishments and took in the views and people-watched. It was relaxing and enjoyable. We then made the few steps to the station, and took the train back to La Spezia. Once back, we opted to walk (about 15 minutes) back to the port, stopping again at an outdoor restaurant in La Spezia's city center for drinks and appetizers before returning to the ship. While I did not get all the photographs I had hoped for, it may have been one of the more enjoyable days of all of our cruises. Our new friends, Rob and Carol and Brian and Meryl helped to make it a memorable experience (both the day and the cruise). We often meet great people on cruises; more often than not in the smoking area (due to my penchant for cigars). We stay in touch with some of them. A pretty cool thing happened very recently for us. We just got off a cruise a week ago which stopped in Liverpool, England among other places. Rob and Carol live in Manchester, only about a 30-minute drive to Liverpool. We met them for lunch and drinks! What a fun thing. Hopefully we will have more of those experiences as time goes on.

Manarola - Cinque Terre, Italy - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved

WHILE NOT my idea of a premiere port, La Spezia, for a number of reasons, will always stimulate fond memories for us.

La Spezia, Italy - Copyright Andy Richards 2019 - All Rights Reserved


Saturday, June 3, 2023

Monaco - It's a Big "Deal"

Monaco
JUST A few days ago, I was reading on one of the FB groups about a very similar cruise to this one, that will be happening very soon in 2023 (the cruise ships all have made their annual transatlantic moves from the Caribbean to Europe). Kind of nostalgic, as this was one of the most relaxing and enjoyable of all of our cruises. This time, the ship will be stopping in Cannes, rather than Monaco. We did that on a later cruise in 2022. We took a train from Cannes directly to Monaco on that trip - but we had family members who hired a guide/driver. Their excursion was very similar to our 2019 visit, stopping in Nice and Eze before finding their way to Monaco.

Monaco

BUT AS I have been writing, on this 2019 visit, we anchored right in the harbor in Monaco, and tendered in to the very busy and congested Monaco waterfront, where our guide picked us up and immediately took us out and away from Monaco. 😐 But it was actually o.k. In his mind, he saved the "best" for last, and had us very close to our ship at the end, so we really had little chance of missing our all-aboard time.

Monaco
WE REALLY didn't know a lot about Monaco. But we learned a few things about the Principality, as noted in the earlier Nice post. On our return, we learned even more. For the second smallest nation in the world, it is really a fascinating place. The Casino (perhaps the most famous casino in history - Monte Carlo - and hence, my "Big Deal" play on words) is probably the highlight - visually anyway - of most people's visit to Monaco. Of course, we stopped there. Of course, we went in (though just into the main lobby - we are not big gamblers, and there was an ante we didn't really care enough about to - well, "ante" up).

Monte Carlo Casino, Monaco

For me, seeing the architectural opulence both inside and out, and the in-your-face wealth on surrounding display was enough. There is perhaps no better symbol than the expensive automobile - and there were a few!

Monte Carlo; Monaco

ANOTHER EVENT that we were vaguely aware of was the Monaco Grand Prix race. Again, perhaps the most famous (certainly one of) such race in the world. The course largely follows the main drive around the waterfront and up near the casino. Our driver actually drove us the entire loop of the race. There is, of course, the probable most famous "hairpin" turn in grand prix racing, right at the waterfront. It was hard for us to believe that this tight little circle was actually part of a race.

Grand Prix Monaco

BUT MONACO is about more than gambling and racing. It is also about wealth (a place where the world's wealthiest people gather- primarily for entertainment, but also to make more money). πŸ˜ƒIt is also a place to preserve one's wealth. There is no personal income tax for a permanent resident of Monaco. However, it is not a simple matter of finding housing, getting a drivers license and registering to vote. In order to apply for permanent residency, one must either show proof of ownership (individually or corporate) or rental of residential real property in which the live. Alternatively, they may show proof that they live with a close relative (spouse or partner). An applicant must also show proof of financial self-sufficiency (normally proof of at least $500,000 euro in a Monaco bank). Alternatively, they can show proof of paid employment by a Monaco company, or support by a close relative (again, spouse or partner). After 10 years of permanent residency, one can apply for Monaco Citizenship. One of the advantages of a Monaco residency is visa-free entry to any of the 27 "Schengen Area Countries." Monaco levies not income, wealth transfer, or property taxes, and very low corporate taxes.

Monte Carlo Casino - Monaco

AND THEN there is Royalty! Monaco has been ruled throughout its history, by the House of Grimaldi, now the longest reigning monarchy in the world. The current Prince (recall that Monaco is considered - historically - a "Principality") is Albert II. The Prince of Monaco acts as its executive officer and shares legislative power with a legislative council. Monaco is one of only 3 such nations in western Europe where the monarchy retains political power (the other two being Liechtenstein and the Vatican). The judiciary power in Monaco is also held by the Monarchy. One of the "must see" sights in Monaco is "The Prince's Palace." The Palace and surrounds is itself like a small city within Monaco.

Monaco - from the front of the Casino

MANY OF us remember one of the most famous Princes: Prince Rainier, Albert II's father (and predecessor). When he died in 2005, Rainier was Europe's longest reigning monarch. He ruled the principality for 56 years and is widely recognized as the primary force behind Monaco's transformation from a gambling resort to its vaunted tax and business haven of today. But more than likely the real reason most of us remember him is because of his American movie star wife, (Princess) Grace Kelly. The marriage in 1956 garnered national attention. The two had three children, (Princess) Caroline, Stephanie, and of course, Prince Albert (II). But what is perhaps most remembered is the tragic death of Princess Grace on a road in Monaco high about the Monte Carlo Casino in 1982. According to Encyclopedia Brittanica, she suffered a stroke while driving, and plunged over a ravine suffering severe injuries and leading to her death a day later. The incident made international news.

Prince's Palace; Monaco

AFTER GETTING in our views of Monte Carlo, we went up the hill, to "The Prince's Palace." Situated on a Scenic and strategic high point over Monaco, the grounds are what you might expect for palace in one of the world's most wealthy places. Seeing the interior requires a ticket and entrance fee. As well, the palace is only open certain times. Our day's logistics didn't for that (on either of our trips to Monaco). It would certainly be nice someday, to see the inside.

Prince's Palace; Monaco

WHAT WE did do, though, was get some pretty spectacular "up high" views of Monaco.

View of Monaco from The Prince's Palace

View of Monaco from The Prince's Palace

AFTER OUR time at the Palace, we spent about an hour walking around the municipal district surrounding the palace. Of course, like so many of these places we visit in Europe, it had its share of shops and food establishments. We joined another couple from our group and had a nice, light lunch, before returning to the ship.


And . . . we are cruising again, for the next couple weeks, this time on the Celebrity Edge (our third voyage on her, I think), to Iceland, Ireland and England. See you when we return - hopefully with more stories, pictures, and memories!