Sunday, March 10, 2024

Our First Ever "Holiday" Cruise

[NOT SURE WHY I WAITED SO LONG TO POST THIS ONE - FIRST OF 2024 AND LOTS OF FUN!]

Martini Bar - Celebrity Apex - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

I HAVE read about holiday cruises. I never really pictured us doing one. We always think of holidays as family time, and for logistical reasons, there will probably never be a time we could get the whole family (even as small as it is) on a cruise ship. It just never really occurred to me. This year, both couples had firm plans for the New Year. And our friends had a pretty tight window during that time of the year. Surprisingly to me, it worked. Our cruise left the week following Christmas, which probably wouldn't have been doable.

Celebrity Apex - New Year 2024 - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

THE NEW Year's holiday actually worked for us. We rarely go out anywhere other than possibly in the neighborhood to celebrate. We liked the idea of being captive on the ship. No worries about driving - or other drivers. And knowing how they do things on a cruise ship we thought it could be a good party. And it was. Lots of live music, happy people, and decorations.


Celebrity Apex - Ft. Lauderdale, FL - Copyright Andy Richards 2023

THIS WAS a 7-day short cruise, with only 3 ports of call: San Juan, Puerto Rico, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, and St. Kitts, West Indies. The remaining 4 days were sea days. True to expectation, we had sunny, warm weather for all 7 days. We made no excursion plans. The "plan" was to relax, have a few drinks, smoke a cigar, and soak up some sun.

San Juan Harbor, Puerto Rico - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

WE ARRIVED at Old San Juan in the late afternoon and by the time we were on shore and walking around the sun was setting. But there was a lot going on. Two cruise ships in port, and it was still the holiday week. The old city was still dressed up for the holidays, and I made some nice twilight images of one of the central plazas in Old San Juan.

Old San Juan decorated for the holidays - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

WE STOPPED in at a couple "watering holes," to try some local beer. It happened to be the day after the New Year, and the BCS championship final 4. We are from Michigan (and even though they are not my first "Michigan" - based team - I am Green and White, through and through), how could we not root for the undefeated University of Michigan Wolverines. We wanted to see that game but could not find any of the local spots on shore that were broadcasting it. We decided to go back on board, where the food and drink was "paid for" but more importantly, to tune into the game. Puerto Rico doesn't seem to be much of a football location. ๐Ÿ˜ž

Old San Juan decorated for the holidays - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

DISAPPOINTINGLY, THERE was only one place on the entire ship where we could sit together and watch the game - the Craft Social Bar. Nice place - for about 25 people! There were a couple thousand passengers. What's up with that Celebrity? Ultimately, we went back to our respective rooms after a trip to the buffet to carry out some food. Both the games were good though!

Celebrity Apex in Tortola, BVI - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

THE NEXT day, our stop would be Tortola, BVI. A place neither of us had been to. Paul and Linda have spent a week on nearby St. Johns a couple of times. During a tour around Tortola, we learned (and saw) that St. Johns was across the bay, less than a mile.

Nevis (from the Celebrity Apex berth in St. Kitts) - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

OUR LAST PORT for the trip was St. Kitts. This marked at least the 4th time I have been to St. Kitts. As I have mentioned elsewhere, I think this is one of the most "developed" cruise port shopping areas of anywhere I have stopped. There is a small "downtown" of stores - all squarely aimed at cruiser/tourists, with many clothing stores, liquor stores, cigar shops, trinket shops, and a few bars and restaurants. We didn't leave this area on this cruise (though we have in the past). This was a "shop for gifts for kids and grandkids day." Paul and I mostly sat at the bar in the middle of the area. It was just nice to be in the sun, hear the music, and have a beer or two with my buddy! We headed back for the ship relatively early, to enjoy some of the nice weather on the ship deck. We still had another couple full day at sea days ahead of us, and the weather was very cooperative.

Celebrity Apex departing St. Kitt's at Sunset - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

THREE OF the 4 of us have either late December or early January birthdays. While none of them were during the week on the ship they fell either immediately before, or immediately after. Mine may have been the closest, as it was the morning we disembarked back in Ft. Lauderdale. On our last night on board, we also ate at the specialty restaurant: Eden. Eden is really a whole area on the back of the ship on deck 5, which includes a small buffet, a very elegant bar, a small staging area for music and occasionally other performances, a very nice seating areas (part of the bar) view the ocean aft, and a two-story, gourmet restaurant. In addition to the inside area, there is also a very nice seating area just outside on the port side of the ship (divided into smoking and non-smoking areas).

Happy Birthday! - Eden Restaurant - Celebrity Apex - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

THE RESTAURANT, being a so-called "specialty" restaurant requires a ("healthy") extra charge, and reservations. They can be hard to get. The remainder of the area is open to all passengers (except when being used - which happens a few times during the week - for a private event). This was my third time in the Eden restaurant. The food is pretty good and the atmosphere quite nice.

Caribbean Sunset astern of Celebrity Apex - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

NEARLY EVERY evening we had spectacular sunsets. While I am usually toting a camera around on these trips, I probably used my less this cruise than I ever have. We were usually sitting in one of the bar/cigar smoking areas when the sun set, and I didn't have my camera with me. But I always had my phone. And I am always drawn to make an image or two, even "just" with my phone. As a serious camera enthusiast, I like to think I a pretty discerning about image quality. Back in 2021, I began to really notice the quality being produced by the most recent phones - particularly from Apple, Samsung and Google. I posted a blog on my LightCentricPhotography Blog a couple weeks back showcasing the brilliant sunsets on this cruise. It is probably a first for me, but every single shot on that blog was made with my Samsung S21 "smartphone." The only sunset images I made on this cruise were with the phone. At least for display on the internet, they are pretty impressive.

Caribbean Sunset - Celebrity Apex - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

IT WAS a fun and "just-right" time and place cruise for the 4 of us. We haven't gotten together as much as we have in the past. Part of that is a function of us moving to Florida. Part of is that Paul runs a very successful business and is constantly on the go for that business, a large, great family of children and grandchildren, and his many other hobbies. We are retired and perhaps have more freedom for leisure travel. In spite of this, we have traveled with them to Europe twice, and the Caribbean now. We will look forward to the next adventure with them - maybe a bit more extended. Maybe somewhere else in the world again! Until then . . .

Caribbean Sunset - Celebrity Apex - Copyright Andy Richards 2024

IN THE meantime, we look forward to our next cruise, in Japan. 14 days on a new ship for us: Holland America's Westerdam. We will be circling the whole island of Japan. With another couple we have cruised with - as well as friends of theirs who are (semi) new to us. That seems far away now (April), but we know it is coming up fast. I will most certainly be blogging about that cruise!

Sunset - Ft. Lauderdale, FL - Copyright Andy Richards 2023

Sunday, March 3, 2024

Rules of the Road - Part I

"Lateral Navigation" Buoys

AS I was writing a blog last year on our Baltic Cruise in 2022, something I commented on gave me an idea. Like driving on the roadways of the world, "driving" (navigating) a boat on the world's waterways also has rules. While there are some traffic "universals," there are often different rules and customs in each different country.

LIKEWISE, THERE are rules for navigating the waters of the world. But there are some distinct and unique differences. First, the oceans do not present nearly as clearly defined borders. You generally know when you are driving on a road in a particular country, and when you reach the borders. While there are somewhat defined "territorial" borders in the world's oceans, they are certainly not nearly as clear cut. Because the oceans are used for shipping and passenger transport all over the world by many different nations, the traffic is multi-national, which can lead to confusion by "users" of the waterways. On a nation's roadways, we can generally count on the majority of the occupants being residents of the country (and therefore, familiar with its rules).

Lateral Channel Marker Red Buoy

BECAUSE OF these differences, the rules are perhaps closer to "universal" on the world's waterways. But they are still not completely uniform. I grew up in Michigan (not coincidentally nicknamed "The Great Lakes State"), which is essentially a peninsula in one the country's "freshwater oceans." Surrounded on 3 sides by what is really a geographically single ocean, the 3 separate divisions are separately named: Lake Michigan to the west, Lake Huron to the east, and Lake Superior to the north. For those of us who have lived in Michigan, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, Ohio and Canada, it is familiar territory for big water shipping and pleasure cruising alike. There are more than 10,000 inland lakes in Michigan also (the 4th most behind Alaska, Wisconsin, and Minnesota). Grandparents on both sides of my family owned summer cottages on two of them. We lived on Lake Michigan. I was in and out of small boats from the time I was 10 or so. I have piloted small power craft and sailboats on both inland lakes and The Great Lakes and have cruised on The Great Lakes in the U.S. and Canada. All this is to say I felt like I knew a little something about boating - and the so-called "rules of the road." And ever the self-absorbed "American," I just assumed that the world followed our rules. ๐Ÿ˜ณWell I was wrong (first time ever, right? )๐Ÿ˜‘

I OFTEN comment here that I learn something (things??) on nearly every cruise. When we were in Warnemunde, Germany on the Celebrity Apex in the Baltic back in 2022, I watched this passenger ferry returning to port with some interest. As a photographer, I was interested in the symmetry of the boat splitting the lines of navigational buoys. I thought it made a nice image. But perhaps what struck me more strongly was my "what's wrong with this picture?" sense. From the time of my youth, I had learned about the universal red and green navigational aids to demark channels. Most know that the safest route is to stay between them. But seasoned sailors also know that there is a hierarchy. When leaving the port, the red makers or buoys are to your right (starboard in nautical terms), and the green to your left (port - meaning left and not to be confused with "the port"). Returning to the port, this scheme is reversed. To ingrain this, we were all taught a little ditty: "red, right, returning." Easy, right?

Passenger Ferry returning to port in Warnemunde, Germany
Copyright Andy Richards 2022 - All Rights Reserved

WELL. NOT so fast. What's wrong with this picture? This boat is (take my word for it as I was standing on the cruise ship deck in the port) definitely "returning." But why are all those green buoys on the right? What the . . .? Did I have that all wrong? Was it really "green, right, returning?" That just doesn't have the ring to it, does it?

THE HISTORY here is interesting. Prior to the 1970's, much like the automobile rules of the road, most different countries operated by their own channel marking system (sometimes referred to as buoyage, by nautical terminology). In fact, there were at least 30 of them. Given the factors above that make ocean going traffic unique, it seems like that was a recipe for disaster. It took a series of disasters in the English Channel in 1971 to bring this issue to the forefront. On a January day a collision occurred in the channel between a Peruvian Freighter and a Panamanian Oil Tanker, sinking the tanker and killing 8 sailors. The British authorities immediately placed lights to warn other ships off of the shallow wreck. In spite of that, the very next day a West German Freighter struck the wreck and sank, killing 21 more sailors. The British authorities placed a light ship and more markers. Even then, a month later a Greek Cargo ship struck the wreck and sank, resulting in 22 more lost lives. These incidents are believed to have been the principal inspiration for an organization known as the International Association of Marine Aids to Navigation (IALA) to create a uniform navigational aid standard for buoy and channel marking systems. Ratified by member nations in 1982, the system consolidated the 30 prior standards into the two separate, but similar systems in place today.

IALA Region A - Buoy/Marker system

THE NEW standard created two separate regions: A and B. Region A consists of Europe, Australia, New Zealand, parts of Africa and most of Asia. When entering a harbor in this region, marks to port are red and marks to starboard are green.

IALA Region B - Buoy/Marker system

NORTH AMERICA, Central America, South America, the Philippines, Japan and Korea are, conversely, in Region B. When entering a harbor in this region, marks to port are green and marks to starboard are red (red, right, return).

WHY TWO separate systems? The answer to this is not crystal-clear, but it appears that some member nations - notably the United States of America - had so much already invested in its maritime marker system that it would not have been economically, nor practically, feasible to change them. This system extended well down into the South American Continent, and the Caribbean. They (mainly red/green, port/starboard system of markers) were opposite of what "the rest of the world" considered standard. The result was two systems. A compromise for sure (but nothing really different than how we treat weights and measures throughout the world).

THERE ARE a couple other important points of standardization, which apply in both regions. Whether red or green, all channel markers to the left (port) when returning to port shall be flat topped or square (buoys are known as "cans") and odd-numbered, and markers to the starboard shall be either conical, triangular, or pointed topped (buoys are known as "nuns") and are even numbered. Numbers increase as you get farther away from port. Regardless of the region, markers may be only red or green.

Red and Green Channel Marker Buoys ready to be launched

YOU NOW know how your cruise ship navigates between red and green channel markers, no matter where in the world you are. ๐Ÿ˜Ž


Sunday, February 25, 2024

Dover; The End of the Line

 "Well, it's all right, even if the sun don't shine; Well, it's all right (all right), we're going to the end of the line"

(George Harrison, Roy Orbison, Tom Petty, Bob Dylan, Jeffrey Lynn)

Dover, England (The "White Cliffs of Dover") - Copyright Andy Richards 2019
IT IS pretty much true that the sun doesn't shine alot in Dover (just over 65 days a year). Saying it is "the end of the line" is probably not generally accurate. But for us it was. It was the last stop on our cruise (even though we would return to our point of departure, Rotterdam, the next day). We love to travel, and especially to cruise. We do it a lot. We know that even though this one is coming to an end, there will be more in the future. Even so, the last day or last stop on a cruise tinges me with just a little bit of melancholy. Although we often stop in the same ports again, there will never be one exactly like the one you are in at the time you are in it. For the "Iceland, Ireland and England Cruise, this was it. The last stop. The "end of the line."

Celebrity Apex from Dover Castle - Copyright Andy Richards 2023

MY WIFE and I had been to Dover once before, in 2019, on a previous cruise. We didn't really see Dover, though. Instead, we booked a train to London. In hindsight that was probably a mistake. We had fun in London, but not nearly enough time. We left there vowing to come back to London, knowing we would need to spend several days there in order to get a feel for the city (we did, in 2021, spending a wonderful week there, before boarding the Regal Princess in Southampton). Ironically, the sun was shining the day we skipped Dover.

Dover Castle - Copyright Andy Richards 2023

TRUE TO expectations, there was no sunshine in Dover on this trip. We awoke to drizzly, cloudy and chilly conditions. We knew from our pre-trip planning, that there was not a lot to do in Dover. The primary attractions were Dover Castle, and the small, quaint downtown. Had the weather been a bit nicer, we might have stopped in the downtown on our way back to the ship. We had made some friends aboard, who did, and when we spoke to them that night in the Martini Bar, they said it was a nice experience.

Dover Castle - Main Entrance - Copyright Andy Richards 2023
Dover Castle - Dover, England - Copyright Andy Richards 2023

Dover Castle - Dover, England - Copyright Andy Richards 2023


Dover Castle - Dover, England - Copyright Andy Richards 2023


WE KNEW, though, that we wanted to visit the castle. On the Dover stop, Celebrity provided a shuttle from the ship with 2 stops: the downtown and the castle. I don't recall if there was a charge, but we could tell during the ride that it wasn't a walkable-access situation.

Dover Castle - Dover, England - Copyright Andy Richards 2023



DOVER CASTLE is England's biggest castle. Originally started by William the Conqueror in the late 11th Century, there are no identifiable remains of that first fortification. The current castle was built by King Henry, II, the late 12th Century, it provided the first defense on the English Channel from invasions from the south (across the channel). Over the next 800 years, the castle was periodically and continually upgraded. What is unique about this fortification is the tunnels through the cliffs along the north side of the English Channel. It was a system that allowed for concealment and movement. The tunnels were used during medieval times and then through wars between the French and English and through 2 world wars. They were famously used by Allied Soldiers during WWII.

Tunnels - Dover Castle - Dover, England - Copyright Andy Richards 2023

LIKE MANY European castles, the interior walls housed a kind of self-sustaining community. It is said to be lavishly built, as English castles go. There were a number of rooms with authentic (or perhaps in some cases, authentic-looking mockups) furniture and accessories. It is an interesting visit.

Church outside of Dover Castle - Dover, England - Copyright Andy Richards 2023

WE HEADED back to the ship for our final afternoon onboard, and our final evening of the cruise. A fun time with good friends. We are looking forward to our next adventure together. In the meantime, we had a New Year's Cruise in the Caribbean scheduled with our friends, Paul and Linda. Stay tuned!