Showing posts with label St. Maarten. Show all posts
Showing posts with label St. Maarten. Show all posts

Sunday, October 9, 2022

Caribbean Reprise - Part II - The Cruise

IT SEEMS like these posts about a particular cruise are getting too long. I know that no matter how compelling the subject seems, when a post languishes on, it becomes hard to stay with it. So, I will "try" to shorten them up - in some cases by making multiple posts. keep in mind, however, that I started this new blog out by confessing that I don't do short very well. 😆 The prior post discussed the ship (the Celebrity Reflection), and its role in why I became a Celebrity convert. I probably will say more about this particular ship than others, because we have been on 4 separate cruises on it (and have one upcoming in February, 2023, on its sister ship, the Constellation).

BUT WHAT about the cruise? While having a good experience on the ship is surely going to "color" the overall cruise experience, it doesn't change the on shore experience (other than to the extent the cruise line chooses an itinerary).

Old San Juan Harbor Entrance
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

THIS WAS our second (of several) Caribbean Cruises. The new ship, and new friends definitely shaded this one a bit differently than the first. And, we were starting to get our "sea legs" (cruise legs?). As it was our third cruise, we began to have an idea of what to expect (even though expectations were influenced by a new and different environment). We planned some excursions this time (more on them later). The itinerary for this cruise was Old San Juan, Puerto Rico, St. Kitts, and St. Maarten (again). The cruise began and ended in the Port of Miami, be I won't count that as a port (even though the cruise ship does). We did arrive in Miami the night before, and we did seek out and eat at a Cuban restaurant in the Cuban section of town. We boarded the ship fairly early the following day.

Celebrity Reflection - Old San Juan
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

WE REALLY didn't know anything about Old San Juan, and the stop was one of the shorter ones on the cruise. So, we decided to "play that one by ear." Just like old times. 😀 That actually worked out pretty well. By then, we had realized that we like our new table mates, Lou and Penny a lot, and got along well. Neither of us had any excursion plans for the stop, so we decided to get off and walk around together. The day we were there was a federal holiday (recall that Puerto Rico is a U.S. holding), in observance of Martin Luther King Day. Because it was a federal holiday, the old fort, Castillo San Cristobal was open, admission-free. It is a pretty impressive fort, mainly for its splendid views of the Atlantic Ocean, immediately to the north. The fort is on a narrow, island separated from the mainland (Isla San Juan). The Cruise port is on the other (south) side of this narrow island and in a very protected bay. It is an easy walk to the fort and other points of interest in Old San Juan. The fort was interesting enough. The views were spectacular. The earlier photo is a Norwegian Cruise Lines (NCL) Ship following our Celebrity Reflection into the harbor. It is just rounding the westernmost tip of the island.

Sen'or Frogs
Old San Juan
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

EVENTUALLY, WE found our way to one of the most significant cultural additions to the Caribbean. The facility is so important to the culture, that they have built their shrines in nearly every port. There are actually 2 of them in San Juan. I am not sure what this guy, Senior Frog, actually did in Caribbean history, but it is obvious that he is a . . . err, frog of some importance. And I obviously won some kind of award, though I don't really remember what it was for. 😈 

Sen'or Frogs
Old San Juan - 2013
Celebrity Princess
A GOOD time was had by all. But everything must end sometime. We pulled away from Old San Juan Harbor at sunset, and this time, we chased the NCL ship. You can see more of my photos of San Juan here.
Norwegian Cruise Line Ship - Old San Juan
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

OUR NEXT port of call would be St. Maarten. We looked forward to seeing it again. This time would be different, though, as we were determined to see more of the island than we had previously. We scheduled a driving tour of the island (actually, my wife did that - I just showed up when and where directed. I was quickly learning that - among other callings in life - she could easily have been a travel agent/tour organizer). The tour took us around the Dutch part of the island, and then up to the French side. On the French side, besides a tour around, we had two significant destinations. The first was Grand Case, an area of super-ritzy resorts and resort hotels along a beautiful beach formed by Baie de Grand Case, a somewhat sheltered bay on the northwest side of the island. One of the highlights for us - we didn't stop but may be back there some day - was the street of bars. It seemed to go on for blocks and was storefront after storefront - side-by-side - of restaurants and bars. We then went on up into the center of the town of Marigot. There is a nice stage/gazebo in a park right on the beach, and we could see the small harbor we had read about, and the smaller boats moored there. We stopped for about 1/2 to walk around and the driver recommended the bakery which has become more or less famous in Marigot.

Harbor in Marigot, St. Maarten
Copright Andy Richards 2013

IN ONE of the prior blogs here, I foreshadowed one other thing that really left an impression. There is some serious money on St. Maarten. Among others, we saw the home (really compound) owned by millionaire Bill Gates. It was up a long drive, way up into the hills. But what left the impression was the "housing" if you could call it that, along the road at the bottom. They were shacks, with rusty, corrugated metal roofs. So yes, there is serious money. Mixed in with serious poverty. Popular talk has it that celebrities like Brad Pitt, Nicolas Cage and Brittney Spears also own residences on the island. What I don't know is how much they contribute to the St. Maarten economy. It may be a lot. I am not judging; just that it left an impression.

Marigot, St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

THIS TIME, we did get to the airport and saw a jet taking off. Unfortunately, I wasn't in a good position for a photograph of the plane, but I do think I captured the craziness of the scene. If you want to see the plane shots, just Google "Maho Beach runway, St. Maarten," and I am sure you "get the picture."

Airport Beach Bar - St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

THE OTHER spot we stopped at was the famous (infamous?) Orient Beach. It is a large beach with lots of public beachgoing facilities. It is quite touristy, including a charge to use the restrooms. But beachgoing and families is not really what Orient Beach is most famous for. Orient Bay is on the east side of the island, up in the French 1/2. It is in a huge, and very congested area. To the south of the parking area, is the "adult beach" area. You can use your imagination. Or - I can just spell it out. It is "clothing optional." 😅 But here is the thing. If you have St. Tropez, and supermodels in mind, you will be sorely disappointed. What we saw were a few very old (like I am talking older than me 😆) just kind of "letting it all hang out." Sorry, but no pictures. I have been trying for almost 10 years to unsee that scene! But hey. It's famous. Tours are going to take you there. They didn't force me to look. Nobody forced Lott's wife to look either. 😐

Pastry Shop - Marigot, St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

ALL IN all, we really did enjoy seeing more of and getting to know more about St. Maarten. We would be back again in another couple years, with a more laid-back visit. In the meantime, you can see more photos of St. Maarten here.

St. Kitts
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

NEXT STOP, Basseterre, St. Kitts; another place we had never heard of until this cruise. But a place in the Caribbean with some history, we learned. There are actually 2 islands of note here: St. Kitts and Nevis. Nevis' claim to fame (for all you U.S. History buffs) is that it is the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton (probably not so well known by most of the populace until more recent days, with the huge popularity of the "Hamilton" musical). Politically, the two of them are part of a single nation: The Federation of St. Kitts and Nevis. Essentially under the influence of England, the islands are part of the West Indies and are separated by a channel from the Caribbean to the southwest to the Atlantic to the northeast, between the two islands (called "The Narrows"). These two Islands form part of a chain of islands that roughly separates the Caribbean from the Atlantic, including Cuba, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, the Virgin Islands, St. Kitts and Nevis, Montserrat, Guadeloupe, Dominica, Martinique, St. Vincents, Barbados and Grenada. Several of these islands are popular cruise stops. We have been to Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, St. Kitts, Dominica, Barbados and Grenada, on various Caribbean Cruises through the years. Basseterre is the capitol of the federation.

St. Kitts Village
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

ORIGINALLY SETTLED by agrarian nomadic tribes as early as 100 B.C., the most recent were perhaps the Carib tribes (doesn't take a great leap of logic to come up with "Caribbean" from there). In 1493, explorer, Christopher Columbus landed there and claimed the territory for Spain (I seem to remember something about 1492 and the "ocean blue" from back in my grade school history classes). For the next several hundred years, control of the island alternated between Spain, England and France, who were constantly at war with each other and in competition for control of the territories in the Caribbean. England seems to have finally won out - either through might or negotiation, and the federation has been affiliated with England and later the United Kingdom since 1783.

Abandoned Sugar Plantation - St. Kitts
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

ONCE A primarily tobacco producing region, strong competition from the Virginia Colony in the Americas resulted in a shift to sugar cane in about 1640. The Europeans introduced African Slaves to the island shortly after they arrived and slaves comprised the main labor force for the labor-intensive tobacco and later, sugar cane plantations. In 1934, British Parliament abolished slavery, and 4 years later, all slaves in St. Kitts were emancipated.  At one time the world leader in sugar production (during the late 1700's) a combination of increased competition, increased costs of production and the removal of certain protective tariffs cause a decline which eventually caused the government to shut down production in 2005. Up until that time, sugar with the near exclusive factor in the economy of St. Kitts.

Narrow Gauge Railroad Tour - St. Kitts
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

TODAY, ST. Kitts primary industry is tourism, although they have experienced a bit of a boom in technology manufacturing. The islands are caldera-like volcanic formations, which slope steeply upward to a plateau above sea-level. One of the innovations that the St. Kitts sugar industry was known for was the narrow-gauge railroad which circumvented the island up near the top of the plantations. The railway was used to carry the sugar cane down to sea-level for processing and shipping. One of the more innovative tourism ideas was to convert these trains to open passenger cars and do a tour around the island on the train. From the train, you can see not only the old plantations up the mountainside, but also the villages of St. Kitts. There homes are neat and well-kept, but it is apparent that there is not a lot of wealth inherent in the typical village.

Village - St. Kitts
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

THAT MORNING, we took a driving tour of the island - mainly the Basseterre vicinity. Our guide gave us much of the history of the island, as briefly outlined above. Afterward, we boarded the narrow-gauge railroad, for a circle around the island. They served us a local sweet cake and a potent fruit punch, while giving us some history of the sugar plantation industry. St. Kitts is mountainous, and there is a lot of what could be described as "jungle" up those mountains. And where there is jungle, there are bound to be snakes. But not in St. Kitts. The Indian Mongoose was introduced to a number of Caribbean islands over 150 years ago, to control the rat and poisonous snake populations. While there is some evidence of snakes (primarily the non-venomous "Racer" snake), findings are rare. Of course, like any introduction of an invasive, non-native species, there were negatives. At one point the omnivorous animal nearly decimated the St. Kitts chicken population, and also did damage to vegetable crops. Some of that still occurs today.

Catamaran Cruise - St. Kitts
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

OUR DAY ended with a catamaran sailing tour around parts of the island and back to the cruise port. They had more rum-based drinks on the Catamaran, too. Who even needs a "drink package" on the ship? 😀

Celebrity Reflection Sail-Away - St. Kitts
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

WE RETURNED TO St. Kitts a couple years later. Though we had heard it was a place we needed to visit, we didn't get over to Nevis either time. We have a February, 2023 cruise scheduled which will be stopping in St. Kitts, and we plan to get over to Nevis this time.

Miami Skyline - Port of Miami
Copyright Andy Richards 2013

HEADING BACK to Miami, where it all began, we spent our final day "at sea." It was one of the most enjoyable of my Caribbean cruises, making new friends and getting to know a new cruise line (which would become our "go-to" line for future cruises). We arrived back in Miami in the early morning, and though I have been a Florida resident now for several years, we spend very little time in and around Miami. But I was up as we entered the Port of Miami, and the sunrise behind the city was very nice. We would make 2 more Caribbean Cruises in the next couple years, and then a several-year hiatus. But in January of this year, we again cruised in the Caribbean - this time in the Western Caribbean. We have another Eastern Caribbean cruise scheduled in February, 2023. Even though we live in "Caribbean-like" conditions at our home near Tampa, we still love to get away, see the islands, and meet new people!


Sunday, September 18, 2022

Caribbean Adventure

AS A convert to cruising, this time I wholeheartedly embraced a Caribbean Cruise. After a nearly 2-year hiatus, we planned a February 2012 Cruise out of the Everglades Terminal in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. Our ship this time: Princess Cruise Line's Ruby Princess. Sister to our Alaskan Cruise Diamond Princess, these ships are part of Princess' "Grand Class," a slightly smaller class in Princess' two primary classes today, at the time she was one of her biggest. The larger, Royal Class debuted with the Royal Princess in 2019. We have a story on that one from our own 2019 cruise, so stay tuned.

BUT THIS trip has a story all of its own. My wife retired in 2011, and spent much of the first year of retirement, caring for her mom, whose health had begun steadily failing. She was a nearly lifelong resident of Northern Virginia, but spent her last year in Michigan, where we lived at the time.  We were scheduled for this cruise when she took a turn for the worse. Sadly, she died the day we were to fly to Ft. Lauderdale to meet my brother-in-law. My wife and my brother-in-law are her only children. While at first, we were unsure whether following through on the cruise was the right thing to do. My brother-in-law and his girlfriend, to board the cruise ship. He was already in Ft. Lauderdale by then. We all knew that if she had any say in the matter, she would have said "Hell yes! Go on your cruise." We did, and we have always thought of it as her dedicated cruise. My mother-in-law defied all the stereotypical references. She was the best! So, my first two cruises had significance - being tied to two of my favorite parent figures.
Ruby Princess

MICHIGAN CAN feel like Siberia in January and February. By that time, I was usually "done" with cold, sloppy, dreary weather and with scraping my windshield twice a day and fighting slippery roads on my commute to and from work. I was tired of waking up in the dark and arriving home after dark. And mostly, I missed the sun. A Caribbean Vacation at this time of year had always appealed to me.
Princess Cays, Bahamas
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
THIS CRUISE made stops in the Bahamas (Princess-owned, "Princess Cays"), St. Martin, St. Thomas and Grand Turk (in the Turks and Caicos Islands). My brother-in-law and his girlfriend planned a couple excursions during the week, including snorkeling and water-related sports. We, on the other hand, planned essentially nothing. Some shopping and walking on the beach and exploring the small towns were all that were on the itinerary. We (my wife, especially) had just gone through a tough time and I think just having nothing planned was exactly the right thing for us.
Princess Cays, Bahamas
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

OUR FIRST stop was Princess Cays, where we had reserved a cabana to change into swim gear and get out of the sun (or any other weather that came our way). The cays is a private facility that takes up a large percentage of the island of Eleuthera, in the Bahamas. I would estimate that Princess owns about 1/2 of it. On the Princess property, there are no residences or stores. It is simply a very nice beach in the middle of the Caribbean. The cruise ship brought a nice barbeque buffet on shore, and we ate well. Of course, they had a bar. I kicked around the shoreline with my camera and got my feet wet. It was a nice, relaxing day.
Phillipsburg Cruise Terminal - St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

THE NEXT port on our itinerary was St. Maarten. St. Maarten is, and probably will remain, my favorite of all of the places I have visited in the Caribbean so far. There is just something special about it. I may be because it was the first Caribbean Island I ever visited. For whatever reason, it has resonated with me. I have been there 3 times on cruises. Someday, it is not out of the question that we might spend a week or 10 days there.
Center of Phillipsburg - St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
ST. MAARTEN is divided nearly in half, with the line extending east to west. The northern roughly 1/2 is French owned (and not surprisingly, the predominant language is French). The Southern 1/2 is Dutch owned. They predominantly speak English there, though. The primary city on the Dutch side is Philipsburg and the primary city on the French side is Marigot. The main port is on the Dutch end, though there are some small ships that port in Marigot. I suspect the primary reason the larger ships port in Philipsburg is because the Dutch side has a deep-water port and better facilities for the larger ships.
Phillipsburg - St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
THE CRUISE port is about 1 1/2 miles from the center of downtown Philipsburg, and the first mile is along highway. It is not really suitable for walking, though we always see some folks doing so. There are a couple ways to get to town. One is by taxi, from the cruise port parking lot. A more popular (and more fun) way is to take one of the water taxis from the cruise port over to the taxi dock in Phillipsburg, landing you right in the middle of things. On all three of our trips there, we have opted for the water taxis. As you board, there is cold beer prominently displayed (for sale of course). But it sets the mood for your visit. Everything is: "don't worry, mon. Have fun. You are in Sint Maarten!"
St. Maarten Water Taxi
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
WHILE WE have only been there by cruise ship, St. Maarten is accessible, with a small airport that is still large enough that small jets take off and land there. And flying anything smaller might just be a deal-breaker for my wife. 😕 The airport is also on the Dutch side of the island. The airport is someplace you may want to visit, even if you aren't flying onto or off the island. The jets take off and land directly overhead (it feels like you could reach up and touch them) and you will probably never get closer to one anywhere else in the world. There is a beach there, too, and we see people down there - but I wouldn't do it. The jetwash throws sand everywhere. Better, there is a bar right next to the airport and beach. It is always hopping with activity, but the beer is cold and it's a great place to wait and watch for a plane to land. We didn't make it there this trip, but we would next time.
Main Street - Phillipsburg, St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

STOPS HERE and in St. Thomas, USVI, were a bit of an eye-opener to me. I should have known better, as we had certainly encountered it during our Alaskan cruise. But just right at the cruise port. Here, the obligatory tourist shops were all there at the cruise port too. But we mostly ignored them and jumped on the water taxi. What we would learn is that the tourist trade is huge in all these places. I understand that the money infused by tourism is a boon (in some ways) to these otherwise often poor places. On another trip here, we would tour parts of the island and be impressed by the contrast between the very wealthy and very poor inhabiting St. Maarten. But I learned quickly, to seek more out-of-the way places and to try to get some of the "local" flavor and culture. Unfortunately, in many of these places, that can be unsafe. More on that later. I did find some of the back streets less crowded and sometimes photogenic. As I have noted elsewhere, as a photographer, color attracts me and one thing we have learned is there is no shortage of colorful subjects in the Caribbean.
Phillipsburg - St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
ON THIS cruise, we stayed pretty much around the cruise ports or small towns very nearby. We took the water taxi to the docks. As you walk off the docks into Phillipsburg, walking to the left takes you onto the beach. To the right takes you into town. My brother-in-law and girlfriend went to the beach. We opted to walk around the little town and explore. We had been to beaches. But this was the first time (other than through Canada) for us in the Caribbean and for me out of the U.S. I wanted to explore. We walked in and out of some of the shops. In more or less the middle of the downtown main street, there were several spots to buy a cold beer. There are only a few places in the world where you can walk down the street with an alcoholic beverage. Phillipsburg is one of them. I had to partake!


St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
AFTER WE had seen most of the very small downtown shopping and commercial district, we found a spot down at the end of a quiet street near the water and sat in the shade to have a snack and another drink. The photo above was our view of the quiet little local marina from our table in the shade. As we got off the water taxi back at the cruise port to re-board the Celebrity Reflection, I made this last image of St. Maarten. And of course, they did see us again (and again). 😊
St. Maarten
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
AS CRUISERS know, it is common for cruise ships to cruise between ports during the night. When the distances aren't too long, they arrive in the morning, and depart in late afternoon/early evening. The distance between St. Maarten and St. Thomas, USVI is not great, and we arrived at our next stop in the early morning hours the following day.
Early Morning - Frenchman's Bay - Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

ST. THOMAS is one of the three larger islands that, together with around 50 smaller islands, make up The U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI). The other two are St. Croix and St. John. St. Croix is easily more than two times the size of the other two (which are roughly equal) in land area. St. Thomas and St. Croix have populations of just over 40,000 each, while St. John (which is mostly a national park) has only one tenth of those numbers (just over 4,000). Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas is the capital of the USVI, and also the most densely populated city, at nearly 20,000 residents. And when you are on the downtown main street in Charlotte Amalie, it feels like a much larger city. St. John is a short, 3 1/2 miles across the water from the eastern end of St. Thomas at Red Hook. It is a quick ferry ride over. We would visit there on our St. Thomas stop on another cruise. St. Croix, about 45 miles south of St. Thomas, would be a stop on a cruise a couple years later.
Charlotte Amalie Cruise Port
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

THE DEEP-water cruise port for St. Thomas is in Charlotte Amalie, in the western part of Bay de Grigri in Frenchman's Bay, to the south of the island. Again, the cruise port is about a mile from the city, and walking is not really practical (though we did see a few doing it). Charlotte Amalie is ready for tourists, though. They have a pretty robust system for transport, including their multi-passenger, large, golf-cart-like vehicles. They are at the cruise port, ready and waiting for ship passengers wanting to be transported to places like downtown, or up-island to Magens Bay (a renowned public beach). The cruise port has limited capacity, and it is not unusual to see a smaller ship or two anchored in Long Bay, on the eastern side of the water in front of the main part of Charlotte Amalie. These passengers obviously must be tendered in. 
Downtown Charlotte Amalie
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
WE FOUND Charlotte Amalie to be congested, dirty, and touristy. We had no plans other than to walk around town, except that we were on a mission for some jewelry and cigars. After spending "enough" time on this main drag, we asked for a spot that might be "off-the-beaten-path," that would have "local" food and patronized by local residents and workers, to find some lunch. Shop owners were hesitant to send us off the main drag for our safety, but we did finally get a recommendation for a restaurant just a block off. We found it and had a nice lunch (it was some kind of local cuisine - but don't ask me to remember what it was that far back. I remember it as being good - but obviously not memorable 😀). It was obviously not a tourist spot, and we felt welcome enough and not unsafe in the least. While walking around that area, I also found some things to photograph.
Off the "beaten" Path - Charlotte Amalie
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
IT WAS, overall, another nice, if not stimulating, day. As we became more "seasoned" cruisers, we would learn, though, that it often pays to have a plan in advance, and in particular, where there is something to see, a tour arranged. The type of tour that works depends a lot on the destination. In the Caribbean, either walking around, going to a set destination, or taking some kind of vehicle (the golf-cart-like vehicles are pretty popular in this part of the world - but not to be confused with the Tuk Tuk carts that are found throughout Europe, India and Southeast Asia) tour works best. On this trip we just didn't know better. We cannot leave St. Thomas, though, without at least one humorous anecdote (the degree of humor will probably vary from reader to reader). When we got off the ship, my brother-in-law and his girlfriend and we went our separate ways. I don't remember what they did, but likely, it was the beach. We headed downtown. We jumped into one of those huge golf-cart type transport shuttles (I would estimate that they probably held 16-20 passengers). We were near the front, and we noticed that my wife was the sole woman on the shuttle. The men, mostly somewhere either side of 30 (by my guesstimate) were loud, rowdy, laughing and having almost too much fun. We struck up a conversation with a couple of the guys near us. The rest of the story: This beautiful, blue Holland America Ship (Neuw Amsterdam) had been tag-teaming us throughout the cruise. They were tied up on the same wharf as us in almost every port. I had been admiring (and photographing) it all along. Well. It turns out it was a specialty cruise for gay men. As much fun as they were having, they did have some complaints. Apparently, the prior day (at sea) the ship ran out of beer!! No beer left. None. 😀 It left them (and us) wondering about how they could have planned so poorly, knowing they had a huge party aboard all week. These men - obviously quite a few of them couples, were a hoot, and kept us in stitches the entire 20-minute trip into town. We were disappointed, however, to learn that they felt that they were treated somewhat disrespectfully by crew members on their ship. They were headed for Magens Bay and the beach. Afterward, we both agreed: we should have stayed on the shuttle and gone to the beach with these guys!
Holland America Ship - St. Thomas, USVI
Copyright Andy Richards 2021
OUR LAST port of call would be Grand Turk, in the Turks and Caicos Islands. Never heard of it? Well neither had we. 😅 Always an adventure. These islands, consisting of Caicos Island and the much smaller Grand Turk Island, are British Territories to the southeast of the Bahamas. They are primarily known for tourism (sandy, Caribbean beaches) and as an offshore financial center. There are a number of upscale beach resorts on Caicos. Grand Turk (a/k/a Cockburn Town) on Turk Island, though it is the capitol, was much less developed when we visited. But there were signs of development occurring, with a fair amount of new construction and rehab type construction on the very small downtown "main drag." But in spite of its small size and apparently undeveloped status, the cruise terminal is surprisingly modern and large. Inside, there is a very large duty-free liquor store with impressive varieties and quantities. Outside the store there is a "compound" (story to follow 😊) with other stores facing in, and gates out to the island and toward Cockburn Town.
Grand Turk Cruise Port Center
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

WE HAVE not been back there, but I would not be surprised to see it more developed today. But less than 2 miles wide at its widest point (not surprisingly, where the airport runways are located) and just over 6 miles from end to end, it's a pretty small place. Probably its greatest attraction today is the public, "Governor's Beach," a popular spot for sunset watching.
Governor's Beach - Grand Turk
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

WE TOOK a taxi to the downtown. Our travel mates had booked a snorkeling excursion and we agreed to meet on the beach to watch the sunset later that day. On the way to the downtown, we made a stop at the Grand Turk airport to see the full-size replica of Friendship 7, John Glenn's space capsule, which had splashed down off the coast of Grand Turk upon its return to earth in February, 1962 (surprisingly, a trip through my archives reveals that I did not make any photos of this. The shot here is courtesy of Grand Turk Island Trams).
Friendship 7 - John Glenn's Space Capsule
Splashdown February 20, 1962
ON THE drive into Cockburn Town, we were surprised to see cattle, horses, and various other livestock, free roaming the roads, streets, yards and fields. The downtown showed signs of aging and even some crumbling infrastructure, but combined with new construction, it looked to be on the verge of upgrading. Along the beach though, there were some quaint, and old-school, Caribbean touches, including shops, old boats, and food establishments, all lining the crystal-clear Caribbean water.



Images of Cockburn Town/Grand Turk
All images copyright Andy Richards 2012

O.K. I promised a story. 😁I don't think I have made any secret of the fact that we drink on these cruises. Remember, we were still neophytes (cruisers, not drinkers, LOL) at the time of this - only our second ever cruise. In Alaska, we had (perhaps wrongly) concluded that the "beverage package" was not worth it for us. We continued along that line of thinking again on this one. Only this time, we decided to "pad the till" a bit. My wife found some clear plastic bladders which purportedly would go through the ship's inspection process without showing up and so we brought some of our own "contraband" booze. To our surprise, they worked. Now, we don't ever do this anymore and I am definitely not advocating it here. But on this cruise, shortly before we reached our Grand Turk port, we ran out of our own liquor, which we were drinking in our stateroom and/or on our balcony. We took the bladders on shore in our backpacks. In the duty-free store, we re-stocked our gin with a bottle that would require both bladders to fill. You have to picture me, a law-abiding citizen who never did anything even sketchy (I know, I am a chicken 😟). I may have forgotten to mention that they had security in the open area of the cruise port. Security in the form of men with assault-looking rifles, and dressed in camo uniforms, hats and tall black boots. They may have even had Castro-beards. They were kind of scary. We bought the bottle and my wife excused herself to go to the ladies' room, the bottle already in her backpack. She returned after a bit, and then we had to transfer the bottle into my backpack without being seen by the "guerillas" (well, security guards, anyway 😁). I was sweating and nervous as I then got up and walked over to the men's room, going into a stall, trying not to touch anything, and trying not to make any noise. I expected the door to crash open with the cry: "Policia! Freeze! On the ground, Gringo!," at any moment. Too much TV and movies? Most likely. Anyway, I completed the task undiscovered and nonchalantly (right) dumped the empty bottle in the trash. I know now that not only did the security guards pay zero attention to us, but that if they did, they couldn't have cared less about a little gin. But I didn't relax until we were back in our stateroom later. 😓 These days we sin up for the cruise line's drink package and don't really worry the liquor thing. But it makes for a kind of fun story.
Sunset on Grand Turk
Copyright Andy Richards 2012

WE ALL met on the beach next to the cruise port and watched the sunset before re-boarding the Ruby Princess that evening.
Ruby Princess - Caribbean
Copyright Andy Richards 2012
OUR LAST day would be an at sea day, and we relaxed around the ship's pool area, ate, drank and just enjoyed our last day of sunshine. Alas it was to end soon. But we knew we would be back! As it turned out, sooner and more often than we thought. The cruise was fun, relaxing, and to those of us from northern climates, warm! We knew we were headed back to at least another 6 weeks of cold, dreary, and occasionally slogging snowy conditions.

BUT BEFORE we did, the trip couldn't finish without at least one more humorous episode. Humorous now. Perhaps not at the time. We had purchased some nice jewelry for my wife, and I had purchased some cigars in St. Thomas, for a friend. My wife had attended a "seminar" aboard the ship on our first "at sea" day, about shopping for jewelry in St. Martin and St. Thomas, among other places. As we were to learn, there were a few chains that had stores in every port - usually right in the cruise port - but often in both the port and in the nearby towns. What I will tell you about the "seminars" (based on my interpretation of her comments and my own observations) is that they are really sales presentations. And they often impart misinformation. On piece of that misinformation involved taxes and duties. We knew that St. Thomas, as a U.S. territory, did not impose duties. I bought my cigars there, so they weren't an issue. We did buy one significant item of jewelry, though, in St. Martin. When we got off the ship, we picked up our bags and got in the customs line, having dutifully filled our our customs forms. The Customs agent looked at the form and noted the item from St. Maarten. "You know," he asked, "if you purchased that in St. Thomas, there would be no duty on it?" Yes, we responded. We knew that. "So, are you sure you bought that in St. Maarten and not in St. Thomas?" he again asked (eyebrows raised). Like a couple deer in the headlights, we looked back and said yes. We knew where we bought it. "You are killing me here!" he said. 😕 Really? This guy was an official of the U.S., trying to coach us on how to cheat. He sent us into another room to pay the duty. The small room was unbearably hot. We felt nauseous. But even more so, when they informed us that they could not accept credit cards for payment. We weren't carrying a lot of cash and we dug through purse and wallet to come up with the $ for the duty. We would have to find an ATM outside to pay for any taxi and incidentals from the cruise port to the airport. We had (just barely enough) and visions of a Ft. Lauderdale jail cell eased away. 😁 That was enough of an uncomfortable story. But it gets better. As another customs agent was writing out a receipt for us, I asked him (half-jokingly) what they did if somebody just didn't have the cash. After all, it must happen, I reasoned. Jail? He said it was really no problem. They would just write us up a promissory note and we could pay it when we got home! Again - really? Why not let us know about that option in the beginning instead of watching us frantically search for the cash? You can't make this stuff up. Remember Ronald Reagan's quip about the 13 scariest words you will ever hear? "Hello. I am from the government, and I am here to help you." This cruising stuff is fun!